Andersen hitch - nut size? - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 08-07-2014, 10:19 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
The whole point of page 8 is to demonstrate chain tension application; the urethane spring only works in pure compression so the chain needs to pull as straight on the cushion as possible.
Yep and if you read back some have gotten some incorrect information on how to do it hence my post.

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Old 08-07-2014, 10:23 PM   #22
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Dennis set ours up (second one he installed) so we have seven threads showing when ready to tow.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:23 PM   #23
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I liked that he tells you to tension one side one turn and then the other, and then he does two turns and never goes to the other side.
Not that I'm buying an Andersen hitch anyway...
Do you really have to hop from one side to the other and back?
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:28 PM   #24
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I do it all from one side but yeah when ever you are tensioning something it should be done evenly.

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Old 08-07-2014, 10:35 PM   #25
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Do you really have to hop from one side to the other and back?
I really don't, maybe just once back and forth to fine tune. So long as you have the right amount of threads showing, it will all work nicely into place the minute you pull away.
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Old 08-07-2014, 10:56 PM   #26
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So long as you have the right amount of threads showing, it will all work nicely into place the minute you pull away.
Agree. And if you first take most of the weight off the hitch with the tongue jack, you have very little actual wrenching to do to get seven threads (or whatever you want) showing behind the nut.
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Old 08-07-2014, 11:42 PM   #27
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I have seven threads showing for my 19 Escape and Highlander and find once the hitch is secured on the ball it is easier to tighten the nuts on the Anderson hitch if there is a load on the jack. I tighten each side separately and then lift the jack.
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Old 08-08-2014, 07:22 AM   #28
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Okay, let's try another approach. with conventional w/d (not Andersen) you raise and lower the tongue jack to relieve the stress on the bars, some have chains that need to be adjusted in order to tighten, thus you raise the unit, reset the chains and lower the unit, measure and repeat if necessary for the other side.

With the Andersen, all of your adjustment maybe accomplished with the unit hooked without using the tongue jack. You will hand tighten each side and then you will wrench tighten each side until the desired vehicle leveling has been accomplished. A ruler to measure the front rise and fall of the tow vehicle is necessary. However it does become harder to tighten as you add more stress to the chains. Once you have both the trailer and tow vehicle level, remember the number of threads showing, some members here painted the thread for ease. Mark it down someplace.You have to go side to side with any w/d set up to insure equal pressure is being applied.

Once you have your mark, then you can then use the tongue jack somewhat to raise the trailer and this will release the pressure on the chains, allowing you to loosen the big nuts to unhook. Like wise after hooking up you can raise the trailer which will allow tightening the chains easier, but you must stop at your mark or number of threads previously determined.
Does this make any sense to those confused?
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Old 08-08-2014, 10:18 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Okay, let's try another approach. with conventional w/d (not Andersen) you raise and lower the tongue jack to relieve the stress on the bars, some have chains that need to be adjusted in order to tighten, thus you raise the unit, reset the chains and lower the unit, measure and repeat if necessary for the other side.

With the Andersen, all of your adjustment maybe accomplished with the unit hooked without using the tongue jack. You will hand tighten each side and then you will wrench tighten each side until the desired vehicle leveling has been accomplished. A ruler to measure the front rise and fall of the tow vehicle is necessary. However it does become harder to tighten as you add more stress to the chains. Once you have both the trailer and tow vehicle level, remember the number of threads showing, some members here painted the thread for ease. Mark it down someplace.You have to go side to side with any w/d set up to insure equal pressure is being applied.

Once you have your mark, then you can then use the tongue jack somewhat to raise the trailer and this will release the pressure on the chains, allowing you to loosen the big nuts to unhook. Like wise after hooking up you can raise the trailer which will allow tightening the chains easier, but you must stop at your mark or number of threads previously determined.
Does this make any sense to those confused?
I agreed with Jim that when you raise the trailer which will allow tightening or loosening the chains easier. I found this out the hard way.

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Old 08-08-2014, 10:25 AM   #30
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Raise/Lower exercises with my last WDH bars taught me how much simpler things are with an electric jack, too.
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