Any plumbers in the house? Broken dump valve flange

[CoolCampingKid]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I have done something similar . I took a Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel and cut slits in plastic fittings and then was able to remove the fitting one small piece at a time . Works on PVC , not sure about ABS.

Oh yeah it will work with ABS ....

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Is it possible the elbow is screwed into a collar at the bottom of the black water tank rather than glued? That's the way the black water plumbing is done in my Scamp. Actually makes it pretty easy to replace all the ABS and thankfully the black water tank doesn't need to be removed to do it. Maybe consider getting a hold of ETI to find out?

Originally Posted by thoer

It was that way (screwed into the black tank) on our 2010 17B. I think that that is the standard way to connect the pipes to the black tank.

If that's the case, it'll make the repair easy. Definitely ask Escape. With all the foam there it might be difficult to tell until it's all removed.

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[thoer]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

If that's the case, it'll make the repair easy. Definitely ask Escape. With all the foam there it might be difficult to tell until it's all removed.

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When I needed to repair ours, it made for a fairly easy process being able to unscrew that end. It makes sense, as there is always the possibility of hitting something and damaging the pipes.

[padlin]

Heard back from ETI, " strongly advise against breaking the seal in the black tank if at all possible".

At the RV supply shop I found that Valterra makes both male and female hubs, the original on the trailer being female. I can cut off the bad one leaving me a 1.25" pipe stub. Use a trimmed down 3" coupler to join the male hub to the pipe. Just have to get everything lined up before the glue grabs.

[rbryan4]

That should work Bob. Just a cut down coupler joining two male pipes. It's kind of a drag that all the plumbing in this area isn't easier to swap out.

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[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by padlin

At the RV supply shop I found that Valterra makes both male and female hubs, the original on the trailer being female.

I didn't realize that the valve flanges came in multiple connection styles. Another one is female threaded; if you have enough length, you could glue a Hub x MIPT Male Adapter to the pipe stub and use the female threaded flange with it... allowing future flange replacement if required. Similarly, you could glue a Hub x FIPT Female Adapter to the pipe stub and use the male threaded flange with it.

Another option is to use the male (spigot) flange, joined to the stub of existing pipe with a flex coupling instead of an ABS coupler... again if there is enough length.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

... Another option is to use the male (spigot) flange, joined to the stub of existing pipe with a flex coupling instead of an ABS coupler... again if there is enough length.

With such tight spacing, and with glue being rather unforgiving if you don't get it right the first time, I second Brian's suggestion for the flexible coupling. Very forgiving method, you can trim the length with a box cutter if you need to make it even shorter to fit, and you don't have anything to lose trying it first.

[padlin]

The rubber one's a good idea, maybe I'll try it. HD carries them in a 3" length, which would just clear. Can you think of any downside to the rubber one?

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by padlin

The rubber one's a good idea, maybe I'll try it. HD carries them in a 3" length, which would just clear. Can you think of any downside to the rubber one?

Short of reading municipal codes for septic systems and sewage handling in every town you drive through, I think it would just be checking the two hose clamps from time to time to make sure they remain tight.

[cpaharley2008]

and the rubber may be more forgiving during the next freeze period....

[padlin]

Good point, it'd also give a bit if we hit another road gator.

[SFDavis50]

Originally Posted by padlin

Good point, it'd also give a bit if we hit another road gator.

Still, it will need to be strong enough to carry the full weight of a black tank full of "stuff" while bouncing down the road at 65mph. Granted, that is a "worst case" scenario but probably when a leak would occur.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by SFDavis50

Still, it will need to be strong enough to carry the full weight of a black tank full of "stuff" while bouncing down the road at 65mph.

Well, it needs to be strong enough to handle the hydrostatic pressure of a couple of feet of "water" (about one PSI), plus surging, but whatever the design the discharge plumbing doesn't carry the weight of the tank or contents... the floor does that.

Something - normally the black and grey waste piping - has to hold up the weight of the valves and the (empty) Y-pipe. The rubber flexible coupling is essentially a very short and very stiff hose; if I were building this with a longer and softer hose I would run a support strap from the valve assembly to the trailer body, but with nearly zero free length I assume that the flex coupling will do fine.

Originally Posted by SFDavis50

Granted, that is a "worst case" scenario but probably when a leak would occur.

Although not nice , a leak on the road is not as bad (for the trailer owner) as one in the campsite...

[ReagentGrade]

Aren't you lucky! There are choices:

All rubber


Rubber with a metal collar


Short with metal (most $$)

[padlin]

I saw one of the short metal ones at HD, couldn't find anyone to ask about it so I skipped it, it was cheaper then the all rubber one. The rubber on the short one is fairly thin and flexible. From trying it on one of the 3" pipes in the store you'd have to stretch it over the pipe. The inside diameter is about 1/4" smaller then the outside diameter of the pipe.

Actually the short metal one they had was corrugated like the middle one above but only 1/12" wide.