Any plumbers in the house? Broken dump valve flange - Escape Trailer Owners Community
Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×

Go Back   Escape Trailer Owners Community > Escape Tech > Problem Solving | Owners helping each other
Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 05-04-2017, 02:42 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
Any plumbers in the house? Broken dump valve flange

Plumbing is my nemesis.

While lubing the dump gates today I found the flange (Slip Hub) on the black tank had broken on the tank side. Suspect water in the pipe froze and pushed out the bottom of the valve, it broke by both lower bolts. Sure glad I found it before I used the toilet...

If you look at the pics, you'll see there is about an inch of 3" pipe exposed between the slip hub and the 90* coming from the tank.

How do I go about replacing this? The valve seems okay, it's just the hub it bolts to. Is there any way of separating the hub from the 3" pipe?

I'll have to clean off the rest of the foam once I get a game plan.
Attached Thumbnails
Dump Valve.jpg   Cracked Flangea.jpg  
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 03:13 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Little Rock, Arkansas
Trailer: 2014 Escape 19' and 2016 GMC Yukon SLT SUV.
Posts: 499
Send a message via AIM to Tonny LR
I am not a plumber, but found this website which may have what you need Waste Valve Assembly, Double Ell Valve - $30.77
Tonny LR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 03:22 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
Thanks, but new parts I can find, it's removing the old hub that's the problem.

U-tube have video's of people using heat, anyone tried that?
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 03:49 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
PGDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
Bob you have to saw the pipe and re-glue a new flange in. But unfortunately there is not enough room between the 90 and flange to put in a coupler. So you will have to cut above the 90 where there is room and glue in new abs pieces.


Cheers
Doug
__________________
Cheers
Doug
PGDriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 04:03 PM   #5
Site Team
 
rbryan4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
Quote:
Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
Bob you have to saw the pipe and re-glue a new flange in. But unfortunately there is not enough room between the 90 and flange to put in a coupler. So you will have to cut above the 90 where there is room and glue in new abs pieces.


Cheers
Doug
Yep. Have to go higher and replace more pipe.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
rbryan4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 04:38 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
Here's the pic that Jim posted in the valve mod thread, my 2014 is the same, at least from the valves back. Above the 90* there is less then an inch of exposed 3" pipe, pretty much right at the trailers shell. I don't see how I'd go higher then the 90. It looks like I'd have to disassemble the darn trailer to pull the black tank from the inside.
Attached Thumbnails
Jims FW.jpg  
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 04:55 PM   #7
Site Team
 
rbryan4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Canyon Lake, Texas
Trailer: 2015 19 "Past Tents", 2021 F150 Lariat 2.7L EB
Posts: 10,222
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Here's the pic that Jim posted in the valve mod thread, my 2014 is the same, at least from the valves back. Above the 90* there is less then an inch of exposed 3" pipe, pretty much right at the trailers shell. I don't see how I'd go higher then the 90. It looks like I'd have to disassemble the darn trailer to pull the black tank from the inside.
Wow, I didn't know there was so little pipe before entering the trailer. In that case, maybe a very small piece of pipe (with a coupling sleeve) closer to the valve?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
__________________
"You can't buy happiness, but you can buy an RV. And that is pretty close."
rbryan4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 05:05 PM   #8
Tin
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: NA, Arizona
Trailer: 2017 5.0TA
Posts: 549
Hi Padlin, You may want to try a Rambit good luck.
Tin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 05:08 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
escape artist's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: St. Thomas not BVI., Ontario
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2016 Ram Eco Diesel 4X4
Posts: 8,035
Hi: padlin... I'm no plumber either so i'd just tow to my RVTech and let him do it!!! Not that expensive!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
__________________
Quote Bugs Bunny..."Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out of it ALIVE"!!!
'16 Ram Eco D. 4X4 Laramie Longhorn CC & '14 Escape 5.0TA
St.Thomas (Not the Virgin Islands) Ontario
escape artist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 05:12 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
PGDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
Bob there is a way it should work. Buy a coupler and some pipe, cut the coupler down to the same width as the pipe between the 90 and the flange, you'll have to cut equal amounts off both sides. Cut the pipe between the 90 and valve flange leaving enough to fit into the cutdown coupler then cut a short piece of 3" pipe and use this between the coupler and new valve flange.


Cheers
Doug
__________________
Cheers
Doug
PGDriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 05:25 PM   #11
Tin
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: NA, Arizona
Trailer: 2017 5.0TA
Posts: 549
Quote:
Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
Bob there is a way it should work. Buy a coupler and some pipe, cut the coupler down to the same width as the pipe between the 90 and the flange, you'll have to cut equal amounts off both sides. Cut the pipe between the 90 and valve flange leaving enough to fit into the cutdown coupler then cut a short piece of 3" pipe and use this between the coupler and new valve flange.


Cheers
Doug
This should work as long as you have enough room, looks like plan A.
If not Reed also makes a reamer a little bit more expensive though.
https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/product...s/#tabs/videos
Tin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 05:52 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
Alf, wanted to head to a rally in NH next week, never seen an RV shop get done in under a week, especially this time of year.

That's the best idea so far Doug. The couplers look to be 2", I'd have to cut it down to a little over an inch.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 05:57 PM   #13
Senior Member
 
PGDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Alf, wanted to head to a rally in NH next week, never seen an RV shop get done in under a week, especially this time of year.

That's the best idea so far Doug. The couplers look to be 2", I'd have to cut it down to a little over an inch.


At this point I'm afraid you got nothing to loose.

Plan B
Goop the hell out of it with silicone [emoji23][emoji23][emoji15]


Cheers
Doug
__________________
Cheers
Doug
PGDriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 06:28 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
Valterra makes a flange that has a 3" thread as opposed to the glue on style.

There exists a 3" ABS pipe to male iron pipe thread adapter. Don't know if the threads would match but it's something to look at.

Chances are probably pretty slim that I can find these in stock locally though.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 06:31 PM   #15
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Pismo Beach, California
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 192
Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Plumbing is my nemesis.

While lubing the dump gates today I found the flange (Slip Hub) on the black tank had broken on the tank side. Suspect water in the pipe froze and pushed out the bottom of the valve, it broke by both lower bolts. Sure glad I found it before I used the toilet...

If you look at the pics, you'll see there is about an inch of 3" pipe exposed between the slip hub and the 90* coming from the tank.

How do I go about replacing this? The valve seems okay, it's just the hub it bolts to. Is there any way of separating the hub from the 3" pipe?

I'll have to clean off the rest of the foam once I get a game plan.

Hey Padlin, Bummer! It almost looks like it might have gotten hit. Right now I am personally removing my gray water tank so I feel your pain. It depends on how much you want to fool with it but heat wont work. The glues used on ABS pipe (the black pipe) is a chemical reaction and melds the two pieces together. If I was in your boat and I wanted to try an easier fix, I would try to putting small cuts in the female part ( I like the cordless oscillating tools) of the flange (the broken part) while keeping the pipe intact. You might get lucky and remove the bad piece (kind of a long shot but might work). Otherwise like others have said you will have to find a point at which you can put a union further up but I cant see mine it still has foam on that part
Bill
CoolCampingKid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 06:32 PM   #16
Senior Member
 
PGDriver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Southern Alberta, Alberta
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Posts: 1,734
Measure how much length you have to play with and head to your nearest building supply store, something great might come together Bob.


Cheers
Doug
__________________
Cheers
Doug
PGDriver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 07:25 PM   #17
Site Team
 
Donna D.'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,023
Is it possible the elbow is screwed into a collar at the bottom of the black water tank rather than glued? That's the way the black water plumbing is done in my Scamp. Actually makes it pretty easy to replace all the ABS and thankfully the black water tank doesn't need to be removed to do it. Maybe consider getting a hold of ETI to find out?
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
Donna D. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 07:59 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
It's worth a try, thanks.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
padlin is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 08:11 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North of Danbury, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21C
Posts: 3,033
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolCampingKid View Post
Hey Padlin, Bummer! It almost looks like it might have gotten hit. Right now I am personally removing my gray water tank so I feel your pain. It depends on how much you want to fool with it but heat wont work. The glues used on ABS pipe (the black pipe) is a chemical reaction and melds the two pieces together. If I was in your boat and I wanted to try an easier fix, I would try to putting small cuts in the female part ( I like the cordless oscillating tools) of the flange (the broken part) while keeping the pipe intact. You might get lucky and remove the bad piece (kind of a long shot but might work). Otherwise like others have said you will have to find a point at which you can put a union further up but I cant see mine it still has foam on that part
Bill
I have done something similar . I took a Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel and cut slits in plastic fittings and then was able to remove the fitting one small piece at a time . Works on PVC , not sure about ABS.
steve dunham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-04-2017, 08:12 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
thoer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Galesville, Wisconsin
Trailer: 2017 21 "Blue II" & 2017 Highlander XLE (previously 2010 17B "Blue" & 2008 Tacoma)
Posts: 4,232
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Is it possible the elbow is screwed into a collar at the bottom of the black water tank rather than glued? That's the way the black water plumbing is done in my Scamp. Actually makes it pretty easy to replace all the ABS and thankfully the black water tank doesn't need to be removed to do it. Maybe consider getting a hold of ETI to find out?
It was that way (screwed into the black tank) on our 2010 17B. I think that that is the standard way to connect the pipes to the black tank.
__________________
Eric (and Mary who is in no way responsible for anything stupid I post)

"Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance." George Bernard Shaw
thoer is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Escape Trailer Industries or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright 2023 Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.