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Old 05-04-2017, 02:42 PM   #1
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Any plumbers in the house? Broken dump valve flange

Plumbing is my nemesis.

While lubing the dump gates today I found the flange (Slip Hub) on the black tank had broken on the tank side. Suspect water in the pipe froze and pushed out the bottom of the valve, it broke by both lower bolts. Sure glad I found it before I used the toilet...

If you look at the pics, you'll see there is about an inch of 3" pipe exposed between the slip hub and the 90* coming from the tank.

How do I go about replacing this? The valve seems okay, it's just the hub it bolts to. Is there any way of separating the hub from the 3" pipe?

I'll have to clean off the rest of the foam once I get a game plan.
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File Type: jpg Dump Valve.jpg (203.9 KB, 71 views)
File Type: jpg Cracked Flangea.jpg (159.1 KB, 55 views)
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:13 PM   #2
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I am not a plumber, but found this website which may have what you need Waste Valve Assembly, Double Ell Valve - $30.77
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:22 PM   #3
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Thanks, but new parts I can find, it's removing the old hub that's the problem.

U-tube have video's of people using heat, anyone tried that?
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Old 05-04-2017, 03:49 PM   #4
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Bob you have to saw the pipe and re-glue a new flange in. But unfortunately there is not enough room between the 90 and flange to put in a coupler. So you will have to cut above the 90 where there is room and glue in new abs pieces.


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Old 05-04-2017, 04:03 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
Bob you have to saw the pipe and re-glue a new flange in. But unfortunately there is not enough room between the 90 and flange to put in a coupler. So you will have to cut above the 90 where there is room and glue in new abs pieces.


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Yep. Have to go higher and replace more pipe.

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Old 05-04-2017, 04:38 PM   #6
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Here's the pic that Jim posted in the valve mod thread, my 2014 is the same, at least from the valves back. Above the 90* there is less then an inch of exposed 3" pipe, pretty much right at the trailers shell. I don't see how I'd go higher then the 90. It looks like I'd have to disassemble the darn trailer to pull the black tank from the inside.
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Old 05-04-2017, 04:55 PM   #7
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Here's the pic that Jim posted in the valve mod thread, my 2014 is the same, at least from the valves back. Above the 90* there is less then an inch of exposed 3" pipe, pretty much right at the trailers shell. I don't see how I'd go higher then the 90. It looks like I'd have to disassemble the darn trailer to pull the black tank from the inside.
Wow, I didn't know there was so little pipe before entering the trailer. In that case, maybe a very small piece of pipe (with a coupling sleeve) closer to the valve?

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Old 05-04-2017, 05:05 PM   #8
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Hi Padlin, You may want to try a Rambit good luck.
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:08 PM   #9
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Hi: padlin... I'm no plumber either so i'd just tow to my RVTech and let him do it!!! Not that expensive!!! Alf
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:12 PM   #10
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Bob there is a way it should work. Buy a coupler and some pipe, cut the coupler down to the same width as the pipe between the 90 and the flange, you'll have to cut equal amounts off both sides. Cut the pipe between the 90 and valve flange leaving enough to fit into the cutdown coupler then cut a short piece of 3" pipe and use this between the coupler and new valve flange.


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Old 05-04-2017, 05:25 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by PGDriver View Post
Bob there is a way it should work. Buy a coupler and some pipe, cut the coupler down to the same width as the pipe between the 90 and the flange, you'll have to cut equal amounts off both sides. Cut the pipe between the 90 and valve flange leaving enough to fit into the cutdown coupler then cut a short piece of 3" pipe and use this between the coupler and new valve flange.


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This should work as long as you have enough room, looks like plan A.
If not Reed also makes a reamer a little bit more expensive though.
https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/product...s/#tabs/videos
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:52 PM   #12
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Alf, wanted to head to a rally in NH next week, never seen an RV shop get done in under a week, especially this time of year.

That's the best idea so far Doug. The couplers look to be 2", I'd have to cut it down to a little over an inch.
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:57 PM   #13
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Alf, wanted to head to a rally in NH next week, never seen an RV shop get done in under a week, especially this time of year.

That's the best idea so far Doug. The couplers look to be 2", I'd have to cut it down to a little over an inch.


At this point I'm afraid you got nothing to loose.

Plan B
Goop the hell out of it with silicone


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Old 05-04-2017, 06:28 PM   #14
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Valterra makes a flange that has a 3" thread as opposed to the glue on style.

There exists a 3" ABS pipe to male iron pipe thread adapter. Don't know if the threads would match but it's something to look at.

Chances are probably pretty slim that I can find these in stock locally though.
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Old 05-04-2017, 06:31 PM   #15
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Plumbing is my nemesis.

While lubing the dump gates today I found the flange (Slip Hub) on the black tank had broken on the tank side. Suspect water in the pipe froze and pushed out the bottom of the valve, it broke by both lower bolts. Sure glad I found it before I used the toilet...

If you look at the pics, you'll see there is about an inch of 3" pipe exposed between the slip hub and the 90* coming from the tank.

How do I go about replacing this? The valve seems okay, it's just the hub it bolts to. Is there any way of separating the hub from the 3" pipe?

I'll have to clean off the rest of the foam once I get a game plan.

Hey Padlin, Bummer! It almost looks like it might have gotten hit. Right now I am personally removing my gray water tank so I feel your pain. It depends on how much you want to fool with it but heat wont work. The glues used on ABS pipe (the black pipe) is a chemical reaction and melds the two pieces together. If I was in your boat and I wanted to try an easier fix, I would try to putting small cuts in the female part ( I like the cordless oscillating tools) of the flange (the broken part) while keeping the pipe intact. You might get lucky and remove the bad piece (kind of a long shot but might work). Otherwise like others have said you will have to find a point at which you can put a union further up but I cant see mine it still has foam on that part
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Old 05-04-2017, 06:32 PM   #16
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Measure how much length you have to play with and head to your nearest building supply store, something great might come together Bob.


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Old 05-04-2017, 07:25 PM   #17
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Is it possible the elbow is screwed into a collar at the bottom of the black water tank rather than glued? That's the way the black water plumbing is done in my Scamp. Actually makes it pretty easy to replace all the ABS and thankfully the black water tank doesn't need to be removed to do it. Maybe consider getting a hold of ETI to find out?
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Old 05-04-2017, 07:59 PM   #18
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It's worth a try, thanks.
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by CoolCampingKid View Post
Hey Padlin, Bummer! It almost looks like it might have gotten hit. Right now I am personally removing my gray water tank so I feel your pain. It depends on how much you want to fool with it but heat wont work. The glues used on ABS pipe (the black pipe) is a chemical reaction and melds the two pieces together. If I was in your boat and I wanted to try an easier fix, I would try to putting small cuts in the female part ( I like the cordless oscillating tools) of the flange (the broken part) while keeping the pipe intact. You might get lucky and remove the bad piece (kind of a long shot but might work). Otherwise like others have said you will have to find a point at which you can put a union further up but I cant see mine it still has foam on that part
Bill
I have done something similar . I took a Dremel tool with a small cutting wheel and cut slits in plastic fittings and then was able to remove the fitting one small piece at a time . Works on PVC , not sure about ABS.
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:12 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Is it possible the elbow is screwed into a collar at the bottom of the black water tank rather than glued? That's the way the black water plumbing is done in my Scamp. Actually makes it pretty easy to replace all the ABS and thankfully the black water tank doesn't need to be removed to do it. Maybe consider getting a hold of ETI to find out?
It was that way (screwed into the black tank) on our 2010 17B. I think that that is the standard way to connect the pipes to the black tank.
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