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Old 11-26-2015, 09:21 AM   #11
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Probably greatest chance of your canoe moving forward is when you make a sudden stop; like when you see a pretty girl hitchhiking or a beer store beside the road. That is when you need to make sure your tie-down was successful. It is really embarrassing to stop your vehicle, but then see your canoe continue on down the road on its own.
With the front strap choking the canoe at a point much narrower than the widest beam, not too worried about it moving much more than a wee bit at best.
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Old 11-26-2015, 09:56 AM   #12
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You could try loadmyboat.com,4boysmfg.com there based out in Kelowna bc .They are great guys,that are always modifying,lifts/racks
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:50 AM   #13
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This is why I am looking at the Sea Eagle inflatable canoe.
Jim, word to the wise. Not all inflatable's are created equal. I bought an Advanced Elements inflatable from REI that looked great. Puncture resistant, multi-chambered, quality accessories, etc. Second time out, it started leaking a mile from the shore. By the time I got back I looked like I was paddling a giant orange banana! After that, I think I'm moving my price point a little higher.
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Old 11-26-2015, 11:59 AM   #14
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Old 11-26-2015, 01:15 PM   #15
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With the front strap choking the canoe at a point much narrower than the widest beam, not too worried about it moving much more than a wee bit at best.
I always used to put on a front rope to the bumper, but a good buddy of mine who would rather be in his canoe or kayak than anywhere else, convinced me that one GOOD canoe strap in front of the widest beam and one to the rear of it all that is needed with my canoe if I also use the Yakima ladder stops tight against the canoe. I think he's traveled more miles hauling his boats around than I have towing our Escape. Our topper had the option for built in mounts for Yakima racks. I put another Yakima on top of the cab and it makes are very secure arrangement for our 17' Wenonah kevlar. If only I were taller though.
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Old 11-26-2015, 02:17 PM   #16
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I was just using foam blocks between the stock roof rack crossbars and the canoe, plus straps, so the additional location of the vee line at the rear was appropriate; this was an inexpensive rig for one trip (a few thousand kilometres, on a couple of remove-and-replace cycles. Gunwale clamps (or brackets) or ladder stops seem like good ideas for a better rig, and I agree that if there is a solid stop to prevent lateral motion the straps ahead of and behind the wider middle part of the canoe would handle fore-aft motion without the need for lines.

Even without the lines, I still would not be able to open the hatch, because the canoe is too long (and curves up at the end, so down when carried). A short enough boat (such as many kayaks) would not have this problem. Also, gunwale clamps wouldn't work on a typical kayak, and many kayaks are not suitably shaped for typical gunwale brackets, but there are various bracket systems specifically for kayaks.
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Old 11-26-2015, 02:22 PM   #17
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How secure tying to the rack alone is depends how long the canoe is, and how long the rack. Also depends how secure the rack is to the vehicle. Many are only rated for 100 lbs ( like my '94 Explorer ).
I tie the bow to front tow hooks ( Toyota generously sold me a second one for only $60 ). I usually also tie from a thwart ( not the stern ) to the hitch.
Canoe can't go anywhere, even if the rack lets go.
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Old 11-26-2015, 03:13 PM   #18
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How secure tying to the rack alone is depends how long the canoe is, and how long the rack. Also depends how secure the rack is to the vehicle. Many are only rated for 100 lbs ( like my '94 Explorer ).
...
Canoe can't go anywhere, even if the rack lets go.
Yes, the long roof of our van helps.
Rack limits are often not due to any issue with the strength of the rack or the security of its mounts, but by vehicle dynamics. Our van's factory stock roof rack is easily strong enough to stand on, but Toyota doesn't want a lot of mass attached that high off the ground, so it has a modest (I think 70 kg) weight limit. Not knowing what might break first, the bow lines do seem like a good backup.

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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I usually also tie from a thwart ( not the stern ) to the hitch.
That's what happens with a short vehicle and a long boat - lots of overhang!

In the back I used the hitch receiver too.

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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
I tie the bow to front tow hooks ( Toyota generously sold me a second one for only $60 ).
Cool - there is usually only one threaded socket for those removable tie-downs, roughly at a bumper mounting point (and so significantly offset to one side). Often (as with my Mazda3) these are described in the manual as being only for securing the car on a ship, never to be used for any other purpose, but in this case they are actually described as emergency towing eyelets. The RAV4 owner's manual only mentions one eyelet and one place to put it, so the second place is a bonus.
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Old 11-26-2015, 03:51 PM   #19
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When I do tie down the front of my canoe, rather than have the front tie down ropes/straps go over top of the front of the vehicle where they rub and damage the paint, I use a system of straps that fasten inside the hood of the car and can be used to strap the canoe down without any danger of rubbing the paint. Works really well. Here is a picture of a system similar to what I use.

When not using the tie-down straps, the loops can be folded down inside the engine compartment out of sight.
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Old 11-26-2015, 04:24 PM   #20
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How secure tying to the rack alone is depends how long the canoe is, and how long the rack.
Oh how true. I once had my 16' canoe on the Targa top of my little sports car. The racks were about 24" apart and I had tie downs front and rear. Went over the Bennett dam with a crosswind Thought the canoe was going to make like a helicopter rotor.

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