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Old 01-23-2019, 01:21 PM   #81
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pretty sure the old sail switch is fine, it was teh screw bouncing around in there that was the main problem. I am going to ohm it to be sure.
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Old 01-23-2019, 03:35 PM   #82
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pretty sure the old sail switch is fine, it was teh screw bouncing around in there that was the main problem. I am going to ohm it to be sure.
How many times have you dropped a screw and it went to the most illogical and most difficult to find spot. After a while, you give up and get another screw.

The tech that lost your loose screw probably figured "oh well" and continued with another screw out of the box.
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Old 01-23-2019, 04:29 PM   #83
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it was the exact same kind of sheet metal screw as the rest of the ones holding the furnace together. I found no place whre one was missing, so yeah, probably lost during assembly.

now I get the fun of trying to get the exhaust port lined up. ugh. I'm alternating bits of two projects, where project #2 is building a temporary car port for my convertible...
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Old 01-23-2019, 04:38 PM   #84
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How many times have you dropped a screw and it went to the most illogical and most difficult to find spot. After a while, you give up and get another screw.

The tech that lost your loose screw probably figured "oh well" and continued with another screw out of the box.
I've spent a quarter of my life looking for dropped tools, hardware, reading glasses, and assorted parts.

But that was inside a plane.
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:14 PM   #85
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it was the exact same kind of sheet metal screw as the rest of the ones holding the furnace together. I found no place whre one was missing, so yeah, probably lost during assembly....
Could the screw have been used to fasten the furnace to the wood shim on the floor. You may have pulled it out when forcing the furnace off the flue?
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:36 PM   #86
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Could the screw have been used to fasten the furnace to the wood shim on the floor. You may have pulled it out when forcing the furnace off the flue?
Good thought, but unlikely that a screw from ETI would match the same that Atwood used to assemble the furnace. Does ETI use any screws but the Robertson head? I haven’t seen any.
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Old 01-23-2019, 05:43 PM   #87
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Could the screw have been used to fasten the furnace to the wood shim on the floor. You may have pulled it out when forcing the furnace off the flue?
there were no screw holes on the bottom, and this screw was INSIDE the squirrel cage area.
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Old 01-23-2019, 11:34 PM   #88
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I found 3 "extra" screws in mine. Surprisingly, my sail switch checked out fine with the ohmmeter but was flakey when installed in the furnace. Replacement is working fine.
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Old 01-25-2019, 02:47 AM   #89
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well, I got the exhaust port lined up all by my lonesome. now I just need my wife to lean on the outside while I get brutal on the inside and get the heater to fully seat. in the process of getting the pipe lined up, I've slightly dislodged the exhaust plate outside, so I'm going to need to reseal it and re-rivet it... what sort of readily available sealant should I use ? I see mention that ETI uses ProFlex, well, I looked that up and found a bewildering array of Proflex products.


ah, is it GeoCel Proflex RV Sealant, this? https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28100V.../dp/B001FC98X2
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:23 AM   #90
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My trailer is covered so I can't tell what ETI used, but if it's caulk then yes, that's the right product. It's also possible it's butyl tape, which strays a soft putty texture, gets dirty too, as opposed to caulk that turns to a sort of rubber.
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:41 AM   #91
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ah, is it GeoCel Proflex RV Sealant, this? https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28100V.../dp/B001FC98X2
Yes. You can’t go wrong with Proflex. We use bright white but it gets dirty. Clear might be better.
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Old 01-25-2019, 07:52 AM   #92
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Yes. You can’t go wrong with Proflex. We use bright white but it gets dirty. Clear might be better.
Ugh. Not the clear. Clear gets dirty too. At least the the white can be 'bleached.' All the clear around the tops of the windows on my trailer are now beige. The caulking was neatly done. Wish they would have used black, truly.
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:38 AM   #93
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Dust Bunnies

The heater started acting wonky last night and then finally quit early this AM.
I doubt the heater has run more than 10 or 12 hours total.
We have a small dehumidifier and it's filter had a coatings of fine gray fibers covering it also. It looked like what you see when new carpet is installed.
I'm thinking about adding some kind of a filter behind the furnace grate. Maybe some of the activated charcoal sheeting


you can get on Amazon
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Old 01-25-2019, 12:56 PM   #94
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I'm thinking about adding some kind of a filter behind the furnace grate. Maybe some of the activated charcoal sheeting
Whatever you do don't add any significant resistance. The furnace used in the newer Escapes (AFSAD12) is the version with a low amp motor to be more efficient during boondocking. It is not designed to have really any external resistance.
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Old 01-25-2019, 01:23 PM   #95
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Thanks Rubicon

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Whatever you do don't add any significant resistance. The furnace used in the newer Escapes (AFSAD12) is the version with a low amp motor to be more efficient during boondocking. It is not designed to have really any external resistance.
May have to use something like the fine mesh screen that's in the dehumidifier.
0.0 in. WC doesn't give me much wiggle room!
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:57 PM   #96
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May have to use something like the fine mesh screen that's in the dehumidifier.
0.0 in. WC doesn't give me much wiggle room!
Your carbon mesh idea may even be ok. Just not filter media that is designed for fine particulates and thus has a high pressure drop. Ideally it would be on the return so that the stuff doesn’t get into the furnace to begin with but that may not be possible given the installation.
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Old 01-25-2019, 06:45 PM   #97
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and yay, with wife's help pressing in hard on the chrome outside plate, I was able to fully seat the furnace, and hooked up the gas line, leak tested with dawn-n-water, and voila, heater fired up twice in prelim testing.i have
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:02 AM   #98
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I've added a activated carbon sheet behind the grill. Maybe with the larger surface area back there the pressure drop will be less than just sticking it to the grill.
Hopefully it will also help with the surfboard shop oder in the new trailers too.
I'll update after it's been in use for a while.
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Old 01-27-2019, 11:28 AM   #99
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I've added a activated carbon sheet behind the grill. Maybe with the larger surface area back there the pressure drop will be less than just sticking it to the grill.

Hopefully it will also help with the surfboard shop oder in the new trailers too.

I'll update after it's been in use for a while.

Might you post a link to the product you used?
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Old 01-27-2019, 12:39 PM   #100
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Here you go.
You get 2 sheets that I only had to trim an inch off. (other than the hole)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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