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01-23-2019, 01:21 PM
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#81
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,155
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pretty sure the old sail switch is fine, it was teh screw bouncing around in there that was the main problem. I am going to ohm it to be sure.
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01-23-2019, 03:35 PM
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#82
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Baytown, Texas
Trailer: 2017 21' Escape - upgraded version
Posts: 2,697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
pretty sure the old sail switch is fine, it was teh screw bouncing around in there that was the main problem. I am going to ohm it to be sure.
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How many times have you dropped a screw and it went to the most illogical and most difficult to find spot. After a while, you give up and get another screw.
The tech that lost your loose screw probably figured "oh well" and continued with another screw out of the box.
__________________
Normal people believe that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Engineers believe in fixing it so that it never breaks.
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01-23-2019, 04:29 PM
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#83
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,155
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it was the exact same kind of sheet metal screw as the rest of the ones holding the furnace together. I found no place whre one was missing, so yeah, probably lost during assembly.
now I get the fun of trying to get the exhaust port lined up. ugh. I'm alternating bits of two projects, where project #2 is building a temporary car port for my convertible...
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01-23-2019, 04:38 PM
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#84
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Trailer: 2018 21
Posts: 252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdf-texas
How many times have you dropped a screw and it went to the most illogical and most difficult to find spot. After a while, you give up and get another screw.
The tech that lost your loose screw probably figured "oh well" and continued with another screw out of the box.
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I've spent a quarter of my life looking for dropped tools, hardware, reading glasses, and assorted parts.
But that was inside a plane.
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01-23-2019, 05:14 PM
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#85
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Janesville, WI, Wisconsin
Trailer: Escape 19 (sold) Escape 21 2014
Posts: 1,884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
it was the exact same kind of sheet metal screw as the rest of the ones holding the furnace together. I found no place whre one was missing, so yeah, probably lost during assembly....
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Could the screw have been used to fasten the furnace to the wood shim on the floor. You may have pulled it out when forcing the furnace off the flue?
__________________
Paul and Janet Braun
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 now 2012 Toyota Sequoia V8
Escape 19' 2010 now 2014 Escape 21'
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01-23-2019, 05:36 PM
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#86
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
Could the screw have been used to fasten the furnace to the wood shim on the floor. You may have pulled it out when forcing the furnace off the flue?
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Good thought, but unlikely that a screw from ETI would match the same that Atwood used to assemble the furnace. Does ETI use any screws but the Robertson head? I haven’t seen any.
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01-23-2019, 05:43 PM
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#87
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fudge_brownie
Could the screw have been used to fasten the furnace to the wood shim on the floor. You may have pulled it out when forcing the furnace off the flue?
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there were no screw holes on the bottom, and this screw was INSIDE the squirrel cage area.
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01-23-2019, 11:34 PM
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#88
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
Trailer: 2018 Escape 21
Posts: 19
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I found 3 "extra" screws in mine. Surprisingly, my sail switch checked out fine with the ohmmeter but was flakey when installed in the furnace. Replacement is working fine.
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01-25-2019, 02:47 AM
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#89
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,155
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well, I got the exhaust port lined up all by my lonesome. now I just need my wife to lean on the outside while I get brutal on the inside and get the heater to fully seat. in the process of getting the pipe lined up, I've slightly dislodged the exhaust plate outside, so I'm going to need to reseal it and re-rivet it... what sort of readily available sealant should I use ? I see mention that ETI uses ProFlex, well, I looked that up and found a bewildering array of Proflex products.
ah, is it GeoCel Proflex RV Sealant, this? https://www.amazon.com/Geocel-28100V.../dp/B001FC98X2
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01-25-2019, 05:23 AM
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#90
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwick, Massachusetts
Trailer: None, sold my 2014 5.0TA
Posts: 7,124
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My trailer is covered so I can't tell what ETI used, but if it's caulk then yes, that's the right product. It's also possible it's butyl tape, which strays a soft putty texture, gets dirty too, as opposed to caulk that turns to a sort of rubber.
__________________
Happy Motoring
Bob
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01-25-2019, 05:41 AM
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#91
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz
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Yes. You can’t go wrong with Proflex. We use bright white but it gets dirty. Clear might be better.
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01-25-2019, 07:52 AM
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#92
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Site Team
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Portland, Oregon
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Posts: 11,050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Yes. You can’t go wrong with Proflex. We use bright white but it gets dirty. Clear might be better.
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Ugh. Not the clear. Clear gets dirty too. At least the the white can be 'bleached.' All the clear around the tops of the windows on my trailer are now beige. The caulking was neatly done. Wish they would have used black, truly.
__________________
Donna D.
Ten Forward
2014 Escape 5.0TA
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01-25-2019, 09:38 AM
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#93
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Trailer: 2018 21
Posts: 252
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Dust Bunnies
The heater started acting wonky last night and then finally quit early this AM.
I doubt the heater has run more than 10 or 12 hours total.
We have a small dehumidifier and it's filter had a coatings of fine gray fibers covering it also. It looked like what you see when new carpet is installed.
I'm thinking about adding some kind of a filter behind the furnace grate. Maybe some of the activated charcoal sheeting
you can get on Amazon
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01-25-2019, 12:56 PM
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#94
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorbudd
I'm thinking about adding some kind of a filter behind the furnace grate. Maybe some of the activated charcoal sheeting
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Whatever you do don't add any significant resistance. The furnace used in the newer Escapes (AFSAD12) is the version with a low amp motor to be more efficient during boondocking. It is not designed to have really any external resistance.
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01-25-2019, 01:23 PM
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#95
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Trailer: 2018 21
Posts: 252
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Thanks Rubicon
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubicon327
Whatever you do don't add any significant resistance. The furnace used in the newer Escapes (AFSAD12) is the version with a low amp motor to be more efficient during boondocking. It is not designed to have really any external resistance.
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May have to use something like the fine mesh screen that's in the dehumidifier.
0.0 in. WC doesn't give me much wiggle room!
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01-25-2019, 04:57 PM
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#96
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Burlington Twp., New Jersey
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
Posts: 7,146
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorbudd
May have to use something like the fine mesh screen that's in the dehumidifier.
0.0 in. WC doesn't give me much wiggle room!
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Your carbon mesh idea may even be ok. Just not filter media that is designed for fine particulates and thus has a high pressure drop. Ideally it would be on the return so that the stuff doesn’t get into the furnace to begin with but that may not be possible given the installation.
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01-25-2019, 06:45 PM
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#97
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Site Team
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Mid Left Coast, California
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Posts: 5,155
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and yay, with wife's help pressing in hard on the chrome outside plate, I was able to fully seat the furnace, and hooked up the gas line, leak tested with dawn-n-water, and voila, heater fired up twice in prelim testing.i have
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01-27-2019, 11:02 AM
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#98
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Trailer: 2018 21
Posts: 252
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I've added a activated carbon sheet behind the grill. Maybe with the larger surface area back there the pressure drop will be less than just sticking it to the grill.
Hopefully it will also help with the surfboard shop oder in the new trailers too.
I'll update after it's been in use for a while.
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01-27-2019, 11:28 AM
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#99
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Port Townsend, Washington
Trailer: 2010 17B “MATT”, then 2017 19 “Lilly”
Posts: 1,584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotorbudd
I've added a activated carbon sheet behind the grill. Maybe with the larger surface area back there the pressure drop will be less than just sticking it to the grill.
Hopefully it will also help with the surfboard shop oder in the new trailers too.
I'll update after it's been in use for a while.
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Might you post a link to the product you used?
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