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Old 12-29-2018, 10:12 AM   #1
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Atwood Furnace

I'm camping, the lows are 30f and my furnace is flakey.

About half the time it comes on, it never lights, and shuts off a minute later. Other half the times, fan runs 20 secs, then spark spark fwoom, heat. Of course once it doesn't start, then it won't try again until you shut the thermostat off then on again. Any field repairs??
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:20 AM   #2
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Historically it has been the sale switch or circuit board, both of which entails removal, something not done while traveling. Perhaps get an auxiliary electric heater?
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Old 12-29-2018, 10:48 AM   #3
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If you have a Atwood 8012 check out this thread. You may be able to blow out the dust from the sail switch. (post #9)
Eddie
How to replace sail switch ? (Atwood 8012)
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Old 12-29-2018, 11:13 AM   #4
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Our Atwood furnace started acting strange two weeks after we got our trailer and went downhill from there . Presently the furnace does absolutely nothing . ( Non Functional)
As Jim said it’s not a project to perform while on the road . We have a new sail switch and circuit board which we will install come Spring . From what we’ve read replacing the sail switch and circuit board are only a temporary fix .
We bought a portable electric heater as a stop gap measure . Eventually we will have to find a permanent , reliable source of vented propane heat for off grid camping .
Good Luck with your repairs
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Old 12-29-2018, 11:53 AM   #5
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The newer furnace sail switch is accessible from the outside exhaust cover. Might not even have to remove, may be able to blow the crud off the microswitch with a can of air.
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:07 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by jeffrow View Post
The newer furnace sail switch is accessible from the outside exhaust cover. Might not even have to remove, may be able to blow the crud off the microswitch with a can of air.
The poster's trailer is the old style 2014 model, according to the avatar.
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Old 12-29-2018, 08:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
I'm camping, the lows are 30f and my furnace is flakey.

About half the time it comes on, it never lights, and shuts off a minute later. Other half the times, fan runs 20 secs, then spark spark fwoom, heat. Of course once it doesn't start, then it won't try again until you shut the thermostat off then on again. Any field repairs??
You describe 2 different start up problems here. The furnace control board is finding one or two problems before failing. If it was JUST the sail switch, it would fail before lighting.

On the 2014 model (8012) you can access the control board without removing the furnace, just the front grille. Check the fault code on the circuit board to find out why the furnace is shutting down. I can't recall if I had to remove any screws to look at the fault code LED. The install guide shows the codes on page 4. 1 flash is sail or limit switch, 2 flashes is gas not lighting, steady is a circuit board problem. My guess it is the circuit board since the failure is occurring at different points in the startup sequence.

Good Luck

http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.co...ion-Manual.pdf
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Old 12-30-2018, 02:33 PM   #8
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The furnace board should look pretty much like this (LED shows): Fan 50 Plus Pins page
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Old 12-30-2018, 07:59 PM   #9
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FYI, the furnace is a 8012-II

We got an electric fan heater at the local True Value, do we're good for this trip...

I'll pull it apart when I get home and check the mail switch, etc.
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Old 12-30-2018, 08:12 PM   #10
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If I ever have to pull my furnace for repair, I'll be putting in a copper or poly tube to be able to direct compressed air across the sail switch from the front of the furnace..........
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Old 12-31-2018, 05:22 AM   #11
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If I ever have to pull my furnace for repair, I'll be putting in a copper or poly tube to be able to direct compressed air across the sail switch from the front of the furnace..........
or, do what I did, get the new style exterior furnace door installed on your new Escape.....
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz View Post
I'm camping, the lows are 30f and my furnace is flakey.

About half the time it comes on, it never lights, and shuts off a minute later. Other half the times, fan runs 20 secs, then spark spark fwoom, heat. Of course once it doesn't start, then it won't try again until you shut the thermostat off then on again. Any field repairs??
Are you under warranty like we were? If not, it is an easier issue. Our new Dometic - 2018 - is really an Atwood and it was so new that no one had the sail or sale switch - one guy dusted ours out for us - but that didn't keep it running. Dometic over night mailed us a new board and a new sail switch, but sent the wrong sail switch. If it is an older Atwood, there actually are some pretty good services that will come right into the campground and with the older Atwood, this time of year, you might find a shop that can change out both boards if that is the issue. ALSO - if you have the newer thermostat - tap it gently as the @#@#!@# thing is not wired the furnace so can be temperamental. We spent so much time trying to get it fixed it was putting a serious dent in our long trip. We did buy an electric portable -but that meant we had to change our plans as it was seriously cold when we didn't have power. We finally went home early and since it was only a few days old when it went sideways our wonderful RV shop got Dometic to give us a brand new one. Our RV shop also said any other warranty repairs and we have to pay ourselves. I guess at that point I call Escape industries back to ask if there is a way to handle it. I am hopeful it is now good and we had a lemon.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:36 AM   #13
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We are mixing talk between the older (Atwood 8012-II) and the newer (Atwood/Dometic AFSAD12/ DFSAD12) furnaces. Access to the older style circuit board is under the front grill from the interior as KirkB mentioned. A sail switch replacement requires removal.

On the newer style furnaces without the exterior access door you unfortunately have to pull the furnace to access the circuit board or the sail switch. This makes troubleshooting more difficult because you can’t see the LED’s on the circuit board that show the diagnostic codes while it is installed and going through its startup sequences. If one has the exterior access door that is now being installed my understanding is that the circuit board is right behind it. Much better for troubleshooting, but the furnace still needs to be pulled to replace the sail switch.
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Old 12-31-2018, 09:56 AM   #14
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FYI you can see the led flashing error code without pulling the furnace on a 21 with the AFSAD12 without pulling the furnace if you remove the drawer above and the remove access hatch inside the drawer cavity. I'm dealing with furnace issues as well.

I've found I can get the furnace to run one cycle by repeatedly toggling the reset switch to turn the fan on and off during the startup cycle. I can hear the sail switch open and close but I think it's faulty.

I removed the furnace and cleaned the switch but it did not solve the issue in my case.
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:17 AM   #15
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I'm having second thoughts on buying a new Escape. What is their response to customers having new trailers with a serious reliability issue? Are they still installing this furnace into their new units?
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Old 12-31-2018, 10:54 AM   #16
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I’ve wondered why ETI chose the Atwood furnace . It appears that size may have been a determining factor due to the cabinet layout . A physically larger furnace such as a Suburban may have led to a drawer being eliminated or a different cabinet layout .
The outside access door makes repairs easier but it does nothing to improve reliability .
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:13 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpresco2002 View Post
FYI you can see the led flashing error code without pulling the furnace on a 21 with the AFSAD12 without pulling the furnace if you remove the drawer above and the remove access hatch inside the drawer cavity.
Thank you for this clarification.
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Old 12-31-2018, 11:39 AM   #18
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Hope is not a strategy

After reading about the troublesome furnaces in Escape trailers I am hoping that somehow, some way, our furnace has been properly checked-over during QC process and that it works properly on delivery to us in Sumas in 2 weeks. However, reading this thread sure makes one wonder. Since hope is not a strategy, we are also bringing an electric heater to orientation, as back-up. I sure don't like the thought of staying a few nights in Washington, Oregon then over Siskiyou Summit in January in a trailer without a functioning furnace and with no other heat source. For those of you who have had the furnace fail shortly after delivery, did you get any days of normal use out of it before the failure?
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:40 PM   #19
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I hope those with furnace problems, or those worried about them on future purchases, are letting ETI know.
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Old 12-31-2018, 12:53 PM   #20
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I hope those with furnace problems, or those worried about them on future purchases, are letting ETI know.
I contacted ETI and they were very understanding , unfortunately this does not solve the problem with the furnace and its’ unreliability.
ETI was able to work out a solution for the Dometic refrigerators so I am hopeful they can solve the Atwood furnace issue . Purchasing a backup electric heater is not the solution if you want to camp without hookups
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