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Old 05-03-2016, 03:34 PM   #1
RWS
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battery

I have a 2014 21 I pull my batteries out every winter.I'm having trouble hooking up the positive side with the dual six volts. When I screw the fabricated metal bracket to the battery terminal the fuse sticks up to high to close the cover. I thought I would remember but I guess not. Can anybody post a close up of positive side so I can see what goes where? I called shop but they don"t use that hook up anymore. Do I even need that homemade bracket?
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:46 PM   #2
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Close up of Batteries

Is this what you are looking for?
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Old 05-03-2016, 05:54 PM   #3
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No thats not it. I have a piece of angle iron that the fuse is connected to and then that connects to pos termial, I'll try to post a picture later. THANKS....
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Old 05-03-2016, 06:22 PM   #4
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How about this ?
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Old 05-03-2016, 08:35 PM   #5
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Is this what you are looking for?
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How about this ?
Great photos!
It's nice to see all those properly routed heavy cables, colour coding, and labels.

Although one setup is physically arranged side-by-side and the other is end-to-end, and the cable routing is different, both show electrically the same thing, other than the extra set of cables on the first one (for an inverter?). Neither shows any kind of hold-down bracket over the batteries, any kind of main fuse (just that little one in the ATO or ATC holder for a low-capacity circuit), or any kind of bus bar as is being asked about:
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... When I screw the fabricated metal bracket to the battery terminal the fuse sticks up to high to close the cover...
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Originally Posted by RWS View Post
... I have a piece of angle iron that the fuse is connected to and then that connects to pos termial, I'll try to post a picture later. THANKS....
I'm looking forward to that picture to solve the mystery.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:28 PM   #6
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battery

Here's a picture I hope.
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Old 05-03-2016, 09:44 PM   #7
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picture

Here you go.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:17 PM   #8
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Here you go.
Robert, we have a metal bar on the positive terminal as well, but it's arranged differently because the batteries are in the front storage box. Don't know if this photo helps or not, but here you go. The black wire is for our power jack, so disregard that connection.
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:24 PM   #9
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Well I guess these are made one at a time Thanks, I get the general idea, I'll work on getting it fit with the cover on. Thank you, I wonder if anybody has one like mine?
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:35 PM   #10
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Well I guess these are made one at a time Thanks, I get the general idea, I'll work on getting it fit with the cover on. Thank you, I wonder if anybody has one like mine?
Wait a second, I think I've got it. I'll try to describe what I'm thinking without a drawing. Try attaching the curved metal bar so the flat end sticks up from the terminal. Then, attach the fused wire sideways (so it's not sticking UP but sticking OUT) using the hole in the flat side of the curved bar. Does that make sense?

EDIT: OR, try it the other way, with the flat side of the curved piece attached to the battery first, with the curve pointing UP. Then attach the fused wire sideways through the hole remaining in the curved bar. One of those should work, and provide the clearance.
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Old 05-04-2016, 12:51 AM   #11
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It's a little disturbing to see a cable end labeled as "Battery #2 Positive" attached to the negative terminal of battery #1... but I assume that's the correct cable between the batteries, just swapped end-for-end. If the battery posts are the same size (some batteries have deliberately different sizes on positive and negative posts to things don't get hooked up backwards) then this works - since electrons don't care about labels - and is just confusing.

The clear block is a big fuse, and the block with tab it is mounted on is a holder designed to go directly onto the battery post (the battery post goes through the hole in the tab). I think this is a great design... but it is apparently too tall for the box. The steel strips are two different workarounds to make it fit.

RWS, I would describe your steel adapter as a "J" shape. It seems to exist to turn the stud through the fuse horizontal instead of vertical, so I assume the long arm of the "J" went onto the battery post, leaving a horizontal hole in the short/curved end to which the fuseholder's tab is bolted. I believe that Robert is describing the same thing:
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... OR, try it the other way, with the flat side of the curved piece attached to the battery first, with the curve pointing UP. Then attach the fused wire sideways through the hole remaining in the curved bar. One of those should work, and provide the clearance.
For future off-seasons, the steel "J" adapter and fuse holder could just be left attached to the battery, with only the cables removed from the fuseholder's stud.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:39 AM   #12
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It is a good idea to take pictures before disassembly.
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Old 05-04-2016, 09:53 AM   #13
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What is the gray gooey stuff that Escape uses to fill the hole where the cables exit from the battery box? I need to add some holes to install an inverter and do want to make the run as short as possible. The existing opening is pretty cramped already so thought I would use the opposite side of the box. Figure I need something to seal the hole for off gassing.

Speaking of off gassing, I do not have access to my battery box but from photos I am wondering if the vent does any good? I know it needs a upwards slope but I wonder if there is even any room between the curbside of the battery box and the side of the battery. Can gasses even get to the vent? I am wondering if the battery blocks the vent opening.
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Old 05-04-2016, 10:01 AM   #14
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What is the gray gooey stuff that Escape uses to fill the hole where the cables exit from the battery box? I need to add some holes to install an inverter and do want to make the run as short as possible. The existing opening is pretty cramped already so thought I would use the opposite side of the box. Figure I need something to seal the hole for off gassing.

Speaking of off gassing, I do not have access to my battery box but from photos I am wondering if the vent does any good? I know it needs a upwards slope but I wonder if there is even any room between the curbside of the battery box and the side of the battery. Can gasses even get to the vent? I am wondering if the battery blocks the vent opening.
I don't know what Escape uses, but I carry a package of Electrician's Duct Seal Putty. It stays soft for years, and sticks well enough to be great for temporary filling of holes, sealing around wires, etc. Handy stuff, although I'm sure there are other products, but I've always had a block since I do/did electrical work.
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