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Old 06-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #21
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The kill switch is under the table on ours, on the bench wall where the electrical is located. We have it down now because we are back in storage.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:22 PM   #22
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is should be down by the converter, silver toggle switch
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:47 PM   #23
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When I optioned the dual six-volt batteries with a disconnect switch, I was told the latter was part of that option. At the time, I inferred that with the single 12-volt, it might not come with the package. But like Jim, I'm often wrong.
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Old 06-10-2013, 07:49 PM   #24
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We've got two group 27 batteries. One under the curb side rear dinette inside and one on the bumper. The one under the dinette is in a sealed and vented battery box. The kill switch shuts off that battery only. Reason being that its a PIA to unhook should electrical work need to be preformed and that kill switch makes it easier. We always have the switch on and both interior and exterior battery get solar charged.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:00 PM   #25
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My kill switch is located under the front table under the drivers side bench seat.The switch kills power to things that are always drawing some power,like the smoke detector and the lights on the built in stereo/dvd player.So when in storage or not in use you can shut that off from draining your batteries.
Also my batteries are only one year old and this is the first time they where run right down,and I won't let that happen again.
Still don't know if while the kill switch is off,and you are plugged into house power,is the charger charging the batteries or not.
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:20 PM   #26
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Woodie, I may be wrong but, I think you should leave the kill switch on always.
Keep your rig plugged in when shore power is available.
Is there any way you can just manually turn your stereo/dvd player off? The electronics won't draw much power on stand-by and the smoke detector won't draw a lot of power either.
If you are plugged in your batteries will charge.
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:58 AM   #27
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On my trailer the batteries do not charge when plugged into outside power if the kill switch is off. The lights, etc work, but the electricity is disconnected from reaching the batteries. The battery status leds on the monitor will show the status, but will not show charging unless the switch is on. (For some reason my switch is on in the down position.)
Also, several comments questioned the strength of the converter/charger to do the charging job. The model installed in my trailer is the 8955, which has maximum output of 55 amps, and includes 3 stages for charging. The specs appear to be consistent with industry standards. Why isn't it sufficient?
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Old 06-11-2013, 11:55 AM   #28
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The big complaint on the 8955 is that the unit never goes into the boost mode. This is the highest (fastest) mode of the three stages of charging. Because the unit does not properly sense the state of charge on the batteries it uses the middle mode, and the resulting longer charge time.

Some users of the 8955 have managed to get the unit into boost mode by turning on lights, enough to draw about 20 amps, before starting the generator or using shore power. Not sure how plugging in solar is affected. Would anyone have an idea if it would help on a solar power charge? If you have LED's that would be quite a few lights to get 20 amps. Interesting idea, remember that once the charging starts turn off the lights.

Another help is to replace the wiring with a heavier gauge wire and insure a solid and secure ground to the chassis. I cannot comment on the need for this as I do not know what Escape is using. I though I read somewhere here on the forum that it is 10 gauge between the batteries but I have not confirmed that. Anyone know what gauge wires are in Escapes?
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Old 06-11-2013, 04:54 PM   #29
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My 17B was wired with #10. When I added a 1000 watt inverter I changed the wiring between the batteries (a pair of 6V) & inverter to #0, and #6 between the inverter & converter. Since I have solar, I've never had the converter go into the boost mode, in fact, the fan has never come on except for a brief time when first turned on, probably because the batteries has never been below 85%.

By the way, if you have solar, it is wired so that even with the battery disconnect switch off the solar controller is still connected to the batteries. I've never checked to see if the charge line from the tow vehicle is before or after the battery disconnect...
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:28 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
My 17B was wired with #10. When I added a 1000 watt inverter I changed the wiring between the batteries (a pair of 6V) & inverter to #0, and #6 between the inverter & converter. Since I have solar, I've never had the converter go into the boost mode, in fact, the fan has never come on except for a brief time when first turned on, probably because the batteries has never been below 85%.

By the way, if you have solar, it is wired so that even with the battery disconnect switch off the solar controller is still connected to the batteries. I've never checked to see if the charge line from the tow vehicle is before or after the battery disconnect...
The more I read about it,the more it looks to me like solar might be the way to go.Vermilye did you instal your solar set up yourself?And is it roof mounted or portable and what system did you choose?
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