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Old 07-23-2015, 11:56 AM   #31
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No, it's a new location. The one that came down from the battery was out in front of the first cross member where it got maximum exposure to the elements so that wasn't suitable.

I drilled the cross member over a bit so that the cable from the converter could reach the same spot as the battery cable. It's only 16 ga. so drilling it isn't a biggie.

The stud, stainless steel, faces the rear, inside the channel frame. Much drier location. After the photo it was coated with liquid electrical tape.

Ron
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:13 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Most - perhaps all - of the vehicle lights are LEDs. They will show continuity only if your connect your tester with the right polarity - if you were not handling polarity consistently, you would not get consistent results. Also, the tail circuit has far more lights on it than the others, so that circuit might trigger the tester (depending on your tester) and not the other circuits.
Since we didn't know what cause the battery fuse to blow, we were trying to figure out if any of the wires are shorted. We just pair the points with all combinations (yes we did connect the charge line to the ground but the battery fuse was blown and pulled already so we should be ok?)

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The brake circuit to ground will also have continuity... at about 1 ohm (for tandem axles). Polarity doesn't matter in this case.
This could be a problem. When we connected pin 1 and 2 (ground and brake circuit?) The continuity reads 0 ohm. Also we are trying to figure out how did we get continuity between pin 2 and 3, but not other combinations. But then, if what we really worry about is the battery fuse, we just have to confirm that the charge line is not shorted with other wire (we test while the battery fuse is still pulled?)?


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Pin 7 (the round one in the middle) can be used for anything, and is sometimes connected to reverse lights or to a stop (brake) lamp... but I didn't think it was connected to anything in an Escape.
I didn't know that. I thought we had a reverse light.

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As long as you know which pins are power and ground, and a battery is hooked up, you can test the rest of the circuits with just a wire - no meter or tester required.
  • Connect power to each lighting circuit, and the appropriate lights should come one.
  • Connect power to the brake circuit, and the brake magnets should click on.
  • Don't connect power to ground!
This is a neat trick. The lights were working after the plug was replaced and we connected it to the tow vehicle and tested the signals. We may need to test it again after I replace the blown fuse.

Thanks for the notes!
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:17 PM   #33
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Hi Ron,
Thanks! We are staying out of the panel right now... We figure the problem is on the battery side of the cut-off and every 12V appliances seem to work fine when on A/C. I will print a copy of this message and keep it in the trailer though. Just in case!
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:48 PM   #34
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On my trailer, made in April 2015, there is a ground wire that comes out of the battery to a stud where there are two lugs, one to the battery and one to the converter. It is in a pretty tight spot, hard to even take a photo. I coated the two lugs and the stud with dielectric grease to minimize the corrosion. I hope I don't have to get to it as it will require cutting the cable ties that also hold the positive battery wire, tug wire, and the propane line. The stud is outside the front of the frame but at least both lugs are on a single stud.
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:02 PM   #35
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On my trailer, made in April 2015, there is a ground wire that comes out of the battery to a stud where there are two lugs,.
2015 trailer, I'd posted this previously, maybe my comments were heard at ETI

That is an improvement, lug to lug contact is much better. Still, the brake grounds probably still go to the frame and they have the potential to degrade and cause brake problems. Running a cable from them to connect directly to the battery negative cable would increase the likelihood of long term brake reliability.

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Old 07-23-2015, 03:06 PM   #36
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Hi Ron,
Thanks! We are staying out of the panel right now... We figure the problem is on the battery side of the cut-off and every 12V appliances seem to work fine when on A/C. I will print a copy of this message and keep it in the trailer though. Just in case!
I did the labeled photo so I could refer to it in the future when trying to give advice. It's always easier when you know the other person is looking at the same item under discussion.

I'd still be curious what your reading would be between 1 and 3 with the 110 disconnected. Keep us posted, we all learn from these situations.

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Old 07-23-2015, 03:42 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
ETI does provide a wired ground but it isn't continuous. All ground connections go to the frame at various points. The lug is screwed into the frame and even when my trailer was only months old some rust was visible. Each point has the potential to corrode and degrade the conductivity, especially for those who use them in wetter areas.

Even the brake grounds go to the frame individually.

On my trailer I've installed a common stud and have run cables from each of the ground points to it. Lug to lug contact is better than lug to rusting frame contact.

Ron
Thanks, Ron.
Grounding/Bonding will be mod #1 when I get our 17 home this fall.

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Even the brake grounds go to the frame individually.
I wonder if this may be a cause of the individual brake grab problems posted about in other threads?
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Old 07-23-2015, 04:14 PM   #38
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I wonder if this may be a cause of the individual brake grab problems posted about in other threads?
To clarify, each axle is grounded separately and certainly on a tandem axle that could result in one wheel, with a poor ground, not working as well as the other wheel, in which case the working wheel would tend to lock up first.

On a single axle the ground connection to the frame, degrading because of corrosion over time, would certainly by a factor in brake issues.

I should add that in inspecting my wiring I did find some poorly done crimp connections, previously posted, one of which was down to a few strands. So checking the wiring and ground wouldn't be a bad idea.

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Old 07-26-2015, 12:03 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by akoaoka View Post
Since we didn't know what cause the battery fuse to blow, we were trying to figure out if any of the wires are shorted. We just pair the points with all combinations (yes we did connect the charge line to the ground but the battery fuse was blown and pulled already so we should be ok?)
With the battery fuse out or blown, I agree there's no harm is connecting the battery/charge line to other circuits.

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This could be a problem. When we connected pin 1 and 2 (ground and brake circuit?) The continuity reads 0 ohm.
Okay, you're using an ohmmeter (not just a test light), since you have a resistance reading. Unless it is on a very low range, one ohm and zero are about the same thing.

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But then, if what we really worry about is the battery fuse, we just have to confirm that the charge line is not shorted with other wire (we test while the battery fuse is still pulled?)?
I agree.

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I thought we had a reverse light.
Could be, but I've never noticed a clear section in the tail lamp, or a separate reverse lamp.
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