Battery discharges while towing? - Page 3 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-30-2014, 01:50 PM   #21
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Easiest thing is check your 7 pin wiring with a volt meter and go from there.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:11 PM   #22
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I had hopes of using my Handy-dandy Radio Shack multimeter to test the wiring harness. I got it when we got the trailer because I read somewhere that every RV owner needs one and the little one that fits in your pocket was great for RVers. Unfortunately, the LR 44 batteries had gone bad, so I will have go wait until I get home tomorrow to test the 7 pin connector. I may get one of the testers that Glen mentioned because it seems like it would be a handy thing to have.

I have the factory tow package, with the 150 amp alternator. Not sure about the wiring gauge.

But the more I think about it, the less I think the wiring or the 7 pin connector is the problem. When we arrived at the park yesterday afternoon, I noticed the problem after we had set up in a site without electricity. When we hooked up to go to a diet with electric, the LEDs stopped flickering, and the gauge showed a good battery.

I can't be sure I didn't goof and set the fridge go 'DC' I thought I had it set on 'Auto', which for us always cycles between 'Gas' and 'AC'. I didn't think Auto would ever select DC. We have the 3.0 cubic foot fridge so other models may operate differently.

We plugged into the current bush last evening. This morning I unplugged from the current bush, turned off everything in the trailer, and used one of the 12 volt meters that plus into a power outlet. It measured 13.7 volts. I know that it isn't very accurate, but at least the battery is taking a charge. I also checked the fluid levels, and they are good.

So for now, my working hypothesis is that I goofed on the fridge setting. We will make sure the fridge is set to 'Gas' for the drive home tomorrow, and see what happens.

By the way, the fridge is set to 3 and it reads 2 in the freezer and 33 in the fridge. But the outside temp is in the mid 70s.

Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions. I will let you know what I find out. I really appreciate the value I get from this forum.
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Old 07-30-2014, 06:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
While reading the manual it specifies "Sequence of priority" and propane is last. It further states if there is adequate voltage, 12v is the prime mode.
It might not be quite that simple. An earlier quoted manual section clearly distinguishes between solar power and another 12V source... so are there two 12V inputs?

Perhaps more importantly...

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Originally Posted by paulw View Post
Just reporting what I have observed - maybe my fridge is faulty... My control panel doesn't seem to look like anything in that pdf either.
Just to be clear, since we're getting into details of refrigerator controls: what model do you (anyone reporting on refrigerator control behaviour) have? The most absolute method is to read the sticker of the style shown below and read the model number from it (labeled "MOD.NO.", and showing model "RMS 8400" in this example sticker):
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:33 PM   #24
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As it turns out, he has the 3.0' model, not the 6.7, so our answers were all wrong!!
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Old 07-30-2014, 07:53 PM   #25
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FWIW, I did some testing on the 6.7 after reading the part of the manual Jim quoted. Testing showed AC is priority, then LPG. It would not kick over to DC with no gas and no electric when in Auto, I had to go to it manually.
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Old 07-30-2014, 08:39 PM   #26
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FWIW, I did some testing on the 6.7 after reading the part of the manual Jim quoted. Testing showed AC is priority, then LPG. It would not kick over to DC with no gas and no electric when in Auto, I had to go to it manually.
Yep, that's the one I got too
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:16 PM   #27
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That is because ETI did not wire the solar or alternator triggers - for which I am VERY grateful. I have attached a PDF of page 21 of the Installation Manual.
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:22 PM   #28
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Thumbs up

Mystery solved…...
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Old 07-30-2014, 09:48 PM   #29
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Well not yet. Highlander only comes with 4-pin, so someone had to convert it. The couple that bought my 17B had a bad experience w/Uhaul, which by the way is often Joe Blow & Co. Franchisees. Doesn't mean they're bad, but like anything else word of mouth is the best method for finding the best goods/service.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:10 AM   #30
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Yup I have a highlander too. haven't gotten the plug converted yet they come with the 4 pin. Since I am buying Leon's 17b trailer and towing with a Highlander too I am listening carefully to this in case I need to do something to my TV too but I think I have a referral to a very good shop for converting my plug and installing my trailer breaks.
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