Battery discharges while towing? - Page 4 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-31-2014, 04:10 AM   #31
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That is because ETI did not wire the solar or alternator triggers - for which I am VERY grateful.
At 13 amps , I agree.
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Old 07-31-2014, 10:48 AM   #32
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Yup I have a highlander too. haven't gotten the plug converted yet they come with the 4 pin. Since I am buying Leon's 17b trailer and towing with a Highlander too I am listening carefully to this in case I need to do something to my TV too but I think I have a referral to a very good shop for converting my plug and installing my trailer breaks.
It cost me $25 for the pigtail w/7 pin female plus 1 hour labor to install charge line with circuit from battery back to rear of car. They adapted to the four pin instead of splicing so it could be returned to that state if desired later. Trailer brakes are already installed by Escape, you just need to be able to activate via the 7-pin connector and brake controller. On that note, get an estimate- mine was going to be $350 if the wiring needed to be spliced in. For that cost you can get a Prodigy RF that will allow you to connect via Bluetooth. Had it, was great but sold it with my 17B. See them on Amazon for $309. With the RF, the controller doesn't need to be mounted under the dash. It plugs into cigarette lighter.
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Old 07-31-2014, 11:42 AM   #33
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Best shop around. I paid $650 to have hitch receiver installed ( receiver provided by installer ) and brake controller installed ( I provided ) and have it wired with a 10# ground. Of course that was six years ago, but still.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:29 PM   #34
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It cost me $25 for the pigtail w/7 pin female plus 1 hour labor to install charge line with circuit from battery back to rear of car. They adapted to the four pin instead of splicing so it could be returned to that state if desired later.
I used one of those 7-pin sockets which is fed by the original 4-pin connector (something like a Hopkins 47205), and it is an easy installation, but I would not do it again. After a couple years (okay, maybe a few years) of the 4-pin being plugged into the adapter, it was dirty and corroded; when I tried to unplug it so I could use the 4-pin with a rented cargo trailer, it would not come apart. I had to cut it off and install a new 4-pin connector.

An installation method which is more reliable and keeps a 4-pin connection available is to use a dual receptacle (e.g. Hopkins HM48470, and just cut off the original 4-pin connector so the wires from it can go into the new 7-pin. You need to separately connect the ground wire anyway, so using the original 4-pin only saves connecting three small-gauge wires.
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Old 07-31-2014, 12:30 PM   #35
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Yes, shop- and don't automatically assume the OEM hitch from dealer is going to cost more. With our son's Gen1 Highlander the hitch was about $50 more than aftermarket, however when opening box we found the wiring harness included and it just plugged into a plug under chassis. It also has much better appearance than most aftermarket ones.
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:35 PM   #36
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the highlander came tow ready- hitch installed just need the 7 pin and break controler. Did anyone have to put in some kind of cut off switch to use if you are camping hooked up to your car and dont want the trailer to drain the car battery or does the trailer have it built in? Im not too educated on all this. I have a Prodigy in my truck will use the same its wired in.
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Old 07-31-2014, 02:42 PM   #37
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...Did anyone have to put in some kind of cut off switch to use if you are camping hooked up to your car and dont want the trailer to drain the car battery or does the trailer have it built in?...
When I ran a 12V power wire from the battery on my FJ to my 7-pin plug, I hooked it up to a relay that was only activated when the ignition key was turned on. This works really well in that there is no chance that your trailer could drain the battery on your tug if you forget to disconnect the trailer when parked (as long as ignition is turned off).
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:26 PM   #38
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the highlander came tow ready- hitch installed just need the 7 pin and break controler. Did anyone have to put in some kind of cut off switch to use if you are camping hooked up to your car and dont want the trailer to drain the car battery or does the trailer have it built in?
Most of us do want the power from the tug cut off when the engine isn't running, for that reason. Escape trailers don't have a feature to do that (an no other brands do either, as far as I know). Although you could add a cut-off device to the trailer, it is normal to make this a feature of the tug's wiring instead.

As far as I know, Toyota does not include power for the trailer in their towing features for the Highlander (they didn't a few years ago, anyway). When the power wiring is added, a cut-off relay (such as the system Dave described) can be included. That's what I did in my Sienna.
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Old 07-31-2014, 03:44 PM   #39
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Another thought just occurred to me whether or not its fixes the OP initial questions or not. Last year we purchased a new 2013 Ford F150 EB and shortly after set off on a trip to the SW for camping in our T@b. Got to Moab and realized our battery was almost drained, and no matter what we did could not revive it. A light of sorts went off in my head, recalling a plastic bag of parts, fuses etc that I had seen in the glove box. Turns out Ford DOES NOT, install these items in the fuse box during the manufacturing stage and neither did our local dealer during the prep. And what do you think those fuses were meant for? Non other than the charging relay and charge fuse. IOW's we had been running our fridge on 12V all this time and it was not receiving any charge during the road trip. Note the fridge is only 12 V, not a 3 Way.

To make a long story short after conferring with the manual we installed the relay and appropriate fuse, and voila we had current running to the charge circuit. The point to all this is the OP mentioned he had a new TV and it is conceivable the fuse box either does not have the appropriate fuses and relays in place or that one might actually be blown.

Definitely worth checking out. Years ago while on a trip to the Gulf Coast our TV a Tundra at the time blew a fuse to the charge circuit as well. Fridge was warm, battery almost dead again. Luckily there was an RV store close by which was able to fix the problem.

Hope this helps.

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Old 07-31-2014, 04:11 PM   #40
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set up an appointment they say they use 10 gage wire so thats good they will wire in the plug and add protagy break controler $389 for labor and parts. Will also be sure they add the cut off relay. dont really know what fuse charging relay is but will ask about that too
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