Battery discharges while towing?

[cpaharley2008]

Easiest thing is check your 7 pin wiring with a volt meter and go from there.

[LeonW]

I had hopes of using my Handy-dandy Radio Shack multimeter to test the wiring harness. I got it when we got the trailer because I read somewhere that every RV owner needs one and the little one that fits in your pocket was great for RVers. Unfortunately, the LR 44 batteries had gone bad, so I will have go wait until I get home tomorrow to test the 7 pin connector. I may get one of the testers that Glen mentioned because it seems like it would be a handy thing to have.

I have the factory tow package, with the 150 amp alternator. Not sure about the wiring gauge.

But the more I think about it, the less I think the wiring or the 7 pin connector is the problem. When we arrived at the park yesterday afternoon, I noticed the problem after we had set up in a site without electricity. When we hooked up to go to a diet with electric, the LEDs stopped flickering, and the gauge showed a good battery.

I can't be sure I didn't goof and set the fridge go 'DC' I thought I had it set on 'Auto', which for us always cycles between 'Gas' and 'AC'. I didn't think Auto would ever select DC. We have the 3.0 cubic foot fridge so other models may operate differently.

We plugged into the current bush last evening. This morning I unplugged from the current bush, turned off everything in the trailer, and used one of the 12 volt meters that plus into a power outlet. It measured 13.7 volts. I know that it isn't very accurate, but at least the battery is taking a charge. I also checked the fluid levels, and they are good.

So for now, my working hypothesis is that I goofed on the fridge setting. We will make sure the fridge is set to 'Gas' for the drive home tomorrow, and see what happens.

By the way, the fridge is set to 3 and it reads 2 in the freezer and 33 in the fridge. But the outside temp is in the mid 70s.

Anyhow, thanks for the suggestions. I will let you know what I find out. I really appreciate the value I get from this forum.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

While reading the manual it specifies "Sequence of priority" and propane is last. It further states if there is adequate voltage, 12v is the prime mode.

It might not be quite that simple. An earlier quoted manual section clearly distinguishes between solar power and another 12V source... so are there two 12V inputs?

Perhaps more importantly...

Originally Posted by paulw

Just reporting what I have observed - maybe my fridge is faulty... My control panel doesn't seem to look like anything in that pdf either.

Just to be clear, since we're getting into details of refrigerator controls: what model do you (anyone reporting on refrigerator control behaviour) have? The most absolute method is to read the sticker of the style shown below and read the model number from it (labeled "MOD.NO.", and showing model "RMS 8400" in this example sticker):

[cpaharley2008]

As it turns out, he has the 3.0' model, not the 6.7, so our answers were all wrong!!

[padlin]

FWIW, I did some testing on the 6.7 after reading the part of the manual Jim quoted. Testing showed AC is priority, then LPG. It would not kick over to DC with no gas and no electric when in Auto, I had to go to it manually.

[paulw]

Originally Posted by padlin

FWIW, I did some testing on the 6.7 after reading the part of the manual Jim quoted. Testing showed AC is priority, then LPG. It would not kick over to DC with no gas and no electric when in Auto, I had to go to it manually.

Yep, that's the one I got too

[jamman]

That is because ETI did not wire the solar or alternator triggers - for which I am VERY grateful. I have attached a PDF of page 21 of the Installation Manual.

[cpaharley2008]

Mystery solved…...

[Rossue]

Well not yet. Highlander only comes with 4-pin, so someone had to convert it. The couple that bought my 17B had a bad experience w/Uhaul, which by the way is often Joe Blow & Co. Franchisees. Doesn't mean they're bad, but like anything else word of mouth is the best method for finding the best goods/service.

[Fox hunt]

Yup I have a highlander too. haven't gotten the plug converted yet they come with the 4 pin. Since I am buying Leon's 17b trailer and towing with a Highlander too I am listening carefully to this in case I need to do something to my TV too but I think I have a referral to a very good shop for converting my plug and installing my trailer breaks.

[padlin]

Originally Posted by jamman

That is because ETI did not wire the solar or alternator triggers - for which I am VERY grateful.

At 13 amps , I agree.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

Yup I have a highlander too. haven't gotten the plug converted yet they come with the 4 pin. Since I am buying Leon's 17b trailer and towing with a Highlander too I am listening carefully to this in case I need to do something to my TV too but I think I have a referral to a very good shop for converting my plug and installing my trailer breaks.

It cost me $25 for the pigtail w/7 pin female plus 1 hour labor to install charge line with circuit from battery back to rear of car. They adapted to the four pin instead of splicing so it could be returned to that state if desired later. Trailer brakes are already installed by Escape, you just need to be able to activate via the 7-pin connector and brake controller. On that note, get an estimate- mine was going to be $350 if the wiring needed to be spliced in. For that cost you can get a Prodigy RF that will allow you to connect via Bluetooth. Had it, was great but sold it with my 17B. See them on Amazon for $309. With the RF, the controller doesn't need to be mounted under the dash. It plugs into cigarette lighter.

[gbaglo]

Best shop around. I paid $650 to have hitch receiver installed ( receiver provided by installer ) and brake controller installed ( I provided ) and have it wired with a 10# ground. Of course that was six years ago, but still.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Rossue

It cost me $25 for the pigtail w/7 pin female plus 1 hour labor to install charge line with circuit from battery back to rear of car. They adapted to the four pin instead of splicing so it could be returned to that state if desired later.

I used one of those 7-pin sockets which is fed by the original 4-pin connector (something like a Hopkins 47205), and it is an easy installation, but I would not do it again. After a couple years (okay, maybe a few years) of the 4-pin being plugged into the adapter, it was dirty and corroded; when I tried to unplug it so I could use the 4-pin with a rented cargo trailer, it would not come apart. I had to cut it off and install a new 4-pin connector.

An installation method which is more reliable and keeps a 4-pin connection available is to use a dual receptacle (e.g. Hopkins HM48470, and just cut off the original 4-pin connector so the wires from it can go into the new 7-pin. You need to separately connect the ground wire anyway, so using the original 4-pin only saves connecting three small-gauge wires.

[Rossue]

Yes, shop- and don't automatically assume the OEM hitch from dealer is going to cost more. With our son's Gen1 Highlander the hitch was about $50 more than aftermarket, however when opening box we found the wiring harness included and it just plugged into a plug under chassis. It also has much better appearance than most aftermarket ones.

[Fox hunt]

the highlander came tow ready- hitch installed just need the 7 pin and break controler. Did anyone have to put in some kind of cut off switch to use if you are camping hooked up to your car and dont want the trailer to drain the car battery or does the trailer have it built in? Im not too educated on all this. I have a Prodigy in my truck will use the same its wired in.

[Dave Walter]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

...Did anyone have to put in some kind of cut off switch to use if you are camping hooked up to your car and dont want the trailer to drain the car battery or does the trailer have it built in?...

When I ran a 12V power wire from the battery on my FJ to my 7-pin plug, I hooked it up to a relay that was only activated when the ignition key was turned on. This works really well in that there is no chance that your trailer could drain the battery on your tug if you forget to disconnect the trailer when parked (as long as ignition is turned off).

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

the highlander came tow ready- hitch installed just need the 7 pin and break controler. Did anyone have to put in some kind of cut off switch to use if you are camping hooked up to your car and dont want the trailer to drain the car battery or does the trailer have it built in?

Most of us do want the power from the tug cut off when the engine isn't running, for that reason. Escape trailers don't have a feature to do that (an no other brands do either, as far as I know). Although you could add a cut-off device to the trailer, it is normal to make this a feature of the tug's wiring instead.

As far as I know, Toyota does not include power for the trailer in their towing features for the Highlander (they didn't a few years ago, anyway). When the power wiring is added, a cut-off relay (such as the system Dave described) can be included. That's what I did in my Sienna.

[routlaw]

Another thought just occurred to me whether or not its fixes the OP initial questions or not. Last year we purchased a new 2013 Ford F150 EB and shortly after set off on a trip to the SW for camping in our T@b. Got to Moab and realized our battery was almost drained, and no matter what we did could not revive it. A light of sorts went off in my head, recalling a plastic bag of parts, fuses etc that I had seen in the glove box. Turns out Ford DOES NOT, install these items in the fuse box during the manufacturing stage and neither did our local dealer during the prep. And what do you think those fuses were meant for? Non other than the charging relay and charge fuse. IOW's we had been running our fridge on 12V all this time and it was not receiving any charge during the road trip. Note the fridge is only 12 V, not a 3 Way.

To make a long story short after conferring with the manual we installed the relay and appropriate fuse, and voila we had current running to the charge circuit. The point to all this is the OP mentioned he had a new TV and it is conceivable the fuse box either does not have the appropriate fuses and relays in place or that one might actually be blown.

Definitely worth checking out. Years ago while on a trip to the Gulf Coast our TV a Tundra at the time blew a fuse to the charge circuit as well. Fridge was warm, battery almost dead again. Luckily there was an RV store close by which was able to fix the problem.

Hope this helps.

rob

[Fox hunt]

set up an appointment they say they use 10 gage wire so thats good they will wire in the plug and add protagy break controler $389 for labor and parts. Will also be sure they add the cut off relay. dont really know what fuse charging relay is but will ask about that too