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Old 06-30-2014, 09:52 PM   #11
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I would suggest you use a ( battery isolator ) to dis connect from the trailer before operating a winch motor from the trailer batteries. a old solenoid operated switch the winch motor could be 30 amp + and seporate wiring will be needed. Can be complicated.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:01 AM   #12
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No schematic should be necessary, because the jumper between the two 6V batteries must not connect to anything else, and should be short, direct, and large gauge. The only reason to need a drawing in this case is that the jumper was not apparent. Since the jumper has been found, the right wires are now apparent without a diagram.

If the jumper goes into the harnesss and back out, it's too long. It might have been built that way for some reason - perhaps so the jumper would not be lost in the process of replacing batteries - but I would replace it with a more suitable cable. i would at least cut it shorter.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:05 AM   #13
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As it turns out in this case, ETI is following their usual use of red for battery positive, so the appropriate power source would be the positive battery terminal with that red wire for positive, and the negative terminal of the other battery for negative.

Quote:
Originally Posted by markvt View Post
... if you are using a volt meter by test the terminals wouldn't that tell when you have the 12 volts you need. Then you would know which terminals to use for the power dolly.
Yes, that would work fine if the wires couldn't be followed.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:20 AM   #14
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[QUOTE=Brian B-P;57549
If the jumper goes into the harnesss and back out, it's too long. It might have been built that way for some reason - perhaps so the jumper would not be lost in the process of replacing batteries - but I would replace it with a more suitable cable. i would at least cut it shorter.[/QUOTE]

True enough, even though the mystery is solved it seems to me that it leaves a potentially dangerous situation. With 3 black wires emerging from the wall a person hooking up the batteries after they've been removed, perhaps for the winter or just replacement purposes has 3 choices for the black wires. One of the choices would be a dead short causing some arcs and sparks.

I agree, while it's fresh in your mind make the jumper shorter so there's no potential for mix ups.

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Old 07-01-2014, 07:05 AM   #15
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A refresher for those who want The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1)
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:12 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
True enough, even though the mystery is solved it seems to me that it leaves a potentially dangerous situation. With 3 black wires emerging from the wall a person hooking up the batteries after they've been removed, perhaps for the winter or just replacement purposes has 3 choices for the black wires. One of the choices would be a dead short causing some arcs and sparks.

I agree, while it's fresh in your mind make the jumper shorter so there's no potential for mix ups.

Ron
Makes a strong case for labeling the wires before disconnecting from their respective batteries, and being certain that when the batteries are returned, they are returned in the same orientation as when removed. One could also make a case for eventually replacing the wire that make the "series" connection a color other than red or black.
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
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One could also make a case for eventually replacing the wire that make the "series" connection a color other than red or black.
Ready-made heavy-gauge cables with ring terminals (usually intended to connect automotive starters to starter switches) are often available in grey - perhaps a convenient, electrically suitable, and appropriately coloured option?
18" 1-Ga blue
15" 4-Ga black
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:16 PM   #18
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The problem with some installations, especially on my 17, is that the batteries are physically separated by the spare tire, inside individual battery boxes, on the back bumper, and the connecting cable would need to be looped around the spare tire and outside, an awkward endeavor. Instead, ETI just runs cables from each battery into the trailer hull, and makes the connection inside the hull. I think it makes for a neater solution, but it does make the connecting wire longer.
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Old 07-01-2014, 09:04 PM   #19
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Quote:
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The problem with some installations, especially on my 17, is that the batteries are physically separated by the spare tire...
Routing through the body makes sense to me for the 17-foot, which I believe is the only model using separated batteries.

The wires do need some sort of labeling - even a red tape wrap around the end of the black wire to the positive terminal of the corresponding battery would be reasonably clear. Are they labeled or colour-coded in the dual-battery 17'?

Although I don't know where the batteries are in woodie's 15A, all four wires are bundled together, so this separation issue doesn't apply. With the very different proportions of the 15' and 17', I doubt dual batteries on the 15' back bumper would be a good idea!
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Old 07-02-2014, 10:28 PM   #20
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Just to finish what I started.I now have my ATV winch motor from my mule wired up using the red Positive terminal from one battery and the black negative terminal on the other battery and it all is working now.
I agree that schematics would be a great help.
My 2 batteries are at the front, side by side and the black jumper wire between my batteries really is not very long and I have not had any battery issues with it, other than figuring out were the writes went.Had they not been bound up together in protective coverings,would have made it easier,but they were probably just trying to keep all the wires together and protected .
Thanks for everyones input and help,greatly appreciated .
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