Best glue to use on face of headliner

[gbaglo]

I don't think we are talking "samples". I think the word is "scraps".

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by gocamp

Also wondering the answer here too?

"I did not know that ETI was providing headliner samples? are there options for the headliner?"

As far as I know they're not. They sent me a small chunk because I asked. Got it at the same time as the vinyl samples for around the kitchen Formica. None of it was the same size, probably acquired from the garbage can, but it worked!

[Jim Bennett]

Escape will supply a sample of the wall and cabinetry material on request. They did in 2009 for us, and again this year. It helps with our material selection, especially with the cabinetry sample, the wall material works with just about anything.

Sent from my SM-G935W8 using Tapatalk

[tractors1]

I requested samples of ALL materials, and got a bunch of stuff, including the counter edging and plastic trim used to edge the woodwork against the headliner.

[techfan]

Originally Posted by FMLNM

Apparently you have had no problem with heat from sun and outside temps causing the window frame to heat up causing the Velcro adhesive to soften and release....obviously we have! But we were using Velcro dots and small strips. Cold weather was fine but in the summer they always got warm and then slid around providing no real adhesion.
What kind of adhesive is on your Velcro and/or which Velcro did you get that has that adhesive?
Thanks!

Here is the link to the company I bought from.

VELCRO® Brand Adhesive Tapes | industrialwebbing.com

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by techfan

Here is the link to the company I bought from.

VELCRO® Brand Adhesive Tapes | industrialwebbing.com

I sent them an email as their website does not have specifications for the temperate ratings of their adhesive:

Our Pressure Sensitive tape is backed with a acrylic adhesive (0172) great for high temperature performance and superior bond.

[War Eagle]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

... Got it at the same time as the vinyl samples for around the kitchen Formica. None of it was the same size, probably acquired from the garbage can, but it worked!

What product does ETI use to trim around the edge of the table and where can we get some to match our current table (color = cream)? We have extra Formica and are considering making a somewhat smaller table (26" wide x 40" deep with semicircular front end) omitting that sometimes cumbersome under-mounted sliding contraption.

[Iowa Dave]

Two seasons back, we made a new table top for our cantilevering table frame. We ordered the trim strip from ETI in the brown color and also got enough to do the counter and the flip up shelf which were originally in cream. We changed them out. The strip is 3/4 inches wide. The barbed edge that holds the trim to the table is in the center of the strip. New plywood is 23/32 inch thick. Therefore, I would advise you to set your router slot cutter at a blade width below center on the plywood or when you press the new strip in it will be just a shade proud. If it's going to be High anywhere, you want that to be on the underside where it will not catch crumbs and spilled beer. Experiment with the setting before cutting the table to get the centering right.
Dave

[techfan]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Two seasons back, we made a new table top for our cantilevering table frame. We orderednthe trim strip from ETI in the brown color and also got enough to do the counter and the flip up shelf which were originally in cream. We changed them out. The strip is 3/4 inches wide. The barbed edge that holds it to the table is in the center of the strip. New plywood is 23/32 inch thick. Therefore, I would advise you to set your router slot cutter a a blade width below center on the plywood or when you press the new strip in it will be just a shade proud. If it's going to be High anywhere, you want that to be on the underside where it will not catch crumbs and spilled beer.
Dave

The beige, brown and black are standard vinyl t-molding. It can be purchased at many woodworking stores including Rockler (where I got mine) Buy the smaller size, 3/4, even though you are adding a piece of formica on top as it will still be a little larger than the width of the plywood. As Dave says, set the slot router so the extra molding ends up on the bottom. This is then easily router off or can be trimmed with a chisel held flat to the wood. I have redone my tables and added a table that matches and hangs on the outside. You WILL need a router and an appropriate t-slot bit. Here is a link:

http://www.rockler.com/plastic-t-mol...wide-x-12-long

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Two seasons back, we made a new table top for our cantilevering table frame. We ordered the trim strip from ETI in the brown color and also got enough to do the counter and the flip up shelf which were originally in cream. We changed them out. The strip is 3/4 inches wide. The barbed edge that holds the trim to the table is in the center of the strip. New plywood is 23/32 inch thick. Therefore, I would advise you to set your router slot cutter at a blade width below center on the plywood or when you press the new strip in it will be just a shade proud. If it's going to be High anywhere, you want that to be on the underside where it will not catch crumbs and spilled beer. Experiment with the setting before cutting the table to get the centering right.
Dave

If it ends up a tad proud on top, it is easy to trim down with a sharp knife or block plane (the plane won't cut into the laminate. A sanding block will round the sharp edge off in a flash if needed. I know in my 19 this is what Escape did, as I had to clean up the cut a bit in places.

[Iowa Dave]

The "trimmer" at ETI did such a fine job on our original trim strips that I did not realize
it had been trimmed till I examnied it after I pulled it out.'
Dave