Best way to temporarily winterize Escape?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes, push the check valve, that little bit of water can freeze and cracking that plastic fitting.

THANK YOU DAVE !!!!!
You just saved me from a big problem come Spring
I released the check valve and pumped RV antifreeze till it came out the city water connection . I was surprised how much water was trapped in that line .
THANKS AGAIN

Steve D

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Yes, push the check valve, that little bit of water can freeze and cracking that plastic fitting.

Yes Ralph, definitely push the check valve. When you do you’ll hear the vacuum break and a little gurgling sound most of the time. The anode you want is about
10 inches long and made of magnesium 1 1/16 socket. Use Teflon tape to reseat.
Iowa Dave

[Fox hunt]

i put the anode back in after draining the hot water heater seems like not much would happen without the water. I'm afraid i might lose it by spring.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by mcdonner

Another winterizing question. We have a 2017 19 and plan to replace the anode rod this year when we winterize. We didn't need to do it last year. I know nothing about them in terms of size for the unit. I could just pull it and go buy a new one but would prefer to have it on hand to do the whole thing at once. I did not see it in the literature but maybe I missed it. Are there different sizes or are they all the same. Thanks a million.

Originally Posted by mcdonner

Thanks Alf but I am still confused. May just pull it and take it to our local RV place to find a replacement.

This is what you need:
http://www.campingworld.com/suburban...od-replacement

Magnesium is what the stock anode is made from.

[Steve Clark]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

This is what you need:
http://www.campingworld.com/suburban...od-replacement

Magnesium is what the stock anode is made from.

Good call, Dave! Amazon has them too:

Suburban 232767 Water Heater Anode Rod https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VAYRNM..._HWqXBbZHCE6GE

[cpaharley2008]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

THANK YOU DAVE !!!!!
You just saved me from a big problem come Spring
I released the check valve and pumped RV antifreeze till it came out the city water connection . I was surprised how much water was trapped in that line .
THANKS AGAIN

Steve D

When I winterized my 21 using the e-z- winterizing set up I did not get any antifreeze upstream in the supply tube with the check valve, only down stream from the pump. So how did you get the antifreeze to come out of that location? Maybe I did and do not remember?

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

When I winterized my 21 using the e-z- winterizing set up I did not get any antifreeze upstream in the supply tube with the check valve, only down stream from the pump. So how did you get the antifreeze to come out of that location? Maybe I did and do not remember?

I put the open ended tube in the pump compartment into a jug of RV antifreeze and turned the winterization valve . I released the check valve in the outside city water connection . Wife turned on the water pump . I watched as water was expelled from the outside city water connection followed by pink RV antifreeze . Wife shut off pump and I replaced water screen in city water connection and turned winterization valve back to the normal position
I think I may not be understanding your question or we’re saying the same thing in different ways ?
The drain valve on my fresh water tank is open to the atmosphere

[cpaharley2008]

OKay, I guess the pump pumps fluid both upstream and downstream from the pump. Good to remember....

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Fox hunt

i put the anode back in after draining the hot water heater seems like not much would happen without the water. I'm afraid i might lose it by spring.

I do that too.

I have never flushed out the city water line and have not had a problem. I can see you it certainly wouldn't hurt to do so either.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

When I winterized my 21 using the e-z- winterizing set up I did not get any antifreeze upstream in the supply tube with the check valve, only down stream from the pump. So how did you get the antifreeze to come out of that location?

The city water inlet is downstream (on the outlet side of ) the water pump, so when running the pump (including using the winterizing tee) if you trip the city water inlet check valve water (or antifreeze) will come out.

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

OKay, I guess the pump pumps fluid both upstream and downstream from the pump. Good to remember....

The city water line is piped in on the outlet side of the pump just like a cold branch to a sink or toilet. The only difference is the city water is designed as an inlet and has a check valve so that you don’t lose water out the fitting when the pump is running. The pump also has an integral check valve so you don’t fill and overflow the freshwater tank when on city water. The winterizing T-valve is on the pump suction between the pump and the fresh tank. This line is basically drained when you empty the freshwater tank.

[Iowa Dave]

Well this thread started out as “Best way to temporarily winterize” and that works but next year we’re going to have to start one called “it takes a village to winterize an Escape.”
Iowa Dave

[mcdonner]

I always learn something when reading these threads. I love how the conversation can start one place and quickly end up in another area. As a previous dry pop up camper the fact that everyone provides input helps me get an overall view of different perspectives. Keep it up. 36 in NE Ohio this morning and looks like more cold on the way. I better get busy and get winterized.

[cpaharley2008]

Speaking of winterizing, has anyone tried the rv antifreeze concentrate? It comes in a 1 gal container with a quart of solution to which you add 3 quarts water? Not sure if it is as good as the standard rv antifreeze?

[Iowa Dave]

I usually buy six gallons in a case. It’s on sale each fall in September and October several places. I use it to winterize my sprayer, power washer, etc. never tried the concentrate.
Always have it around for untoward eventualities.
Iowa Dave

[Vermilye]

I still thing the best way to winterize is to head to southwestern Arizona! I'm not quite there, and here in New Mexico it was down to 34°F Sunday night.

That said, if I had to stay in upstate NY, I prefer to use air for the water lines (I do it twice at 45PSI), and enough RV antifreeze for the drains. Don't forget the outside shower & toilet.

[Greg A]

Been following your progress Jon. We've crossed paths several times about a week apart.

[dfandrews]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

I still thing the best way to winterize is to head to southwestern Arizona! I'm not quite there, and here in New Mexico it was down to 34°F Sunday night.........

Then there is coastal So.Calif. for winter. Right now, 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean, it is 82°F, with a predicted low tonight of 55°.


(Monsoons are hitting AZ presently: https://radar.weather.gov/Conus/southrockies.php

[bdornbush]

Originally Posted by escape artist

Hi: Aluminium or magnesium I think.

Get a magnesium one. They deteriorate faster than the aluminum ones which means that your tank deteriorates less, a good thing.

[DenverRTC]

There are 4 things that I usually consider when winterizing:
1. Fresh water system
2. Gray tank
3. Black tank
4. Freezables
1. The fresh water system has been pretty much explained by other repliers.
2. and 3. I usually put up 1 gallon RV antifreeze (cheap at Walmart) in the black and gray tanks to avoid frozen drain lines or valves. Depending on the trailer angle you may not have removed all liguid at the last tank draining.
4. Remove all freezable items such as coke, canned goods etc. I know some folks who left some cans of coke in the cubby under the fridge and had a heck of a mess afterwards.
Hope this helps.