Brake lock up

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by tractors1

I have noticed a difference in my braking action if the plug-in at the rear of the tow is dirty (I live on a 2 mile long dead end gravel road) so hosing out the connector on the tow the day before hooking up seems to cure the problem of grabby brakes.

Kinda like Reace's experience with brake controllers in that it would likely affect all tires instead of just one it would seem. That is not the case here. It is smoking one tire only.

[rbryan4]

If he's referring to electric-over-hydraulic conversion, yes, it can be done. E-trailer has a write up and parts list on it:

Parts Needed to Add Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brakes to a Trailer | etrailer.com

[Rossue]

Rob- I deleted because it sounded kinda negative, but you caught it with the quote. So yes, anything is possible I guess, but that link to the conversion makes it sound complicated-never mind the cost.

Am a little frustrated as it doesn't seem like this should be happening so soon, yet with everything made overseas we all know that QC is a concern. Will just have to muddle through this, but just want to make others aware that just because it is a new trailer doesn't mean your brakes are good from the factory. Escape does not inspect inside the drum for grease contamination or road test them(nor does any other OEM most likely) so one needs to remember this and do your own testing and breaking in the brakes- then adjust very soon after picking up a new trailer.

[tractors1]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Kinda like Reace's experience with brake controllers in that it would likely affect all tires instead of just one it would seem. That is not the case here. It is smoking one tire only.

One tire I'd replace the magnetic parts or at least take them apart and clean them; might be sticky.

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Rob- I deleted because it sounded kinda negative, but you caught it with the quote. So yes, anything is possible I guess, but that link to the conversion makes it sound complicated-never mind the cost.

No problem Ross. Took it out. I agree about the trouble installing such a system too.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by tractors1

One tire I'd replace the magnetic parts or at least take them apart and clean them; might be sticky.

Since many have not read this thread let me remind all that the complete backing plate which includes magnets, armature & brake shoes(at least) is $38. To change out just one item factoring in the labor will most likely cost more than buying the complete kit.

Edit: Charlie- there is one magnet and it has scratches underneath the friction material in the lower forward area. That picture to the local Dexter Service Center was cause for concern.

[Ron in BC]

One of mine started locking up a couple of weeks ago. I put the other wheel up on blocks, backed off the offending one a few clicks and did a high speed lockup test on gravel. Both seemed equal and everthings been OK since.

Ron

[Rossue]

Am going to try that first...makes sense to be sure.

[Daubsy]

I think I may be having similar problems with my trailer brakes. I realized today that my truck brakes are doing most of the work. Anything above 4.5 without any boost causes lock up with light braking.

P.S. Don't go through Sonora Pass. Should have done my research. [emoji45]

[NW Cat Owner]

I'm completely clueless about braking on trailers as I've never pulled a trailer with one. So, I have some questions before I freak out too much!

1. Does the 5.0TA have its own braking system?

2. What is this controller thingie? I'm assuming it's some sort of switch or panel that's in the cab area of your TV.

3. Is this controller installed by ETI when you get the trailer? Or when you purchase your TV (we're getting a new truck) as it's part of the towing package.

4. How the heck do you know when your truck is doing most of the braking (as mentioned)?

5. How do you know when your trailer tire(s) is(are) locking up? Do the tires start smoking and everyone around you starts honking and pointing? Or does the trailer start to pull in one direction and start freaking out the driver?

Thanks much.

[Jim Bennett]

1, Yes, all 4 wheels.

2. The controller activates the trailer brakes according to the pressure on the peddle. It does have to be initially adjusted. Lots of different models out there. They can also be manually operated, so only the trailer brakes activate, used in some emergency situations (though fairly rare) and when setting the brakes up in the first place.

3. I believe Escape can install, but I would get it installed with the new truck. With some trucks, like my F-350, it is built into the vehicle.

4. Proper adjustment, following the brake controller manufacture adjustments, will ensure proper braking. You do want to feel the trailer a bit when braking.

5. You can see them in the mirror, hear them, or yes...see the smoke. No freaking out required. If all your brakes are properly adjusted, when they lock up, they actually pull you straight, which is something good in an emergency.

[MyronL]

Re: "...clueless about braking..."

Might go here to begin your education...

Trailer Maintenance - HowStuffWorks

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Daubsy

I think I may be having similar problems with my trailer brakes. I realized today that my truck brakes are doing most of the work. Anything above 4.5 without any boost causes lock up with light braking.

P.S. Don't go through Sonora Pass. Should have done my research. [emoji45]

Whipped out my Mountain Directory West: Sonora Pass has a sign for westbound traffic(off Hwy 395) that states "26% grade 10 miles ahead." While it is a very short section of road on the east slope there are 10-15% grades in a number of places on both sides of the pass. The westbound descent from the summit to Kennedy Meadows is about 10 miles of grades that vary from 6-14%.

On your brakes- the first thing you should do is check your adjustment. If you have a flat blade screwdriver it is pretty easy. On the back of the drum there are two slots. Take a flashlight and look to see which one has a star wheel. Make the wheel go upwards until you cannot turn it anymore(wheel should be locked up at this point) then back it off 7 clicks. This info came from Dexter tech support when I was having issues last year. This adjustment should be done every 3,000 miles.

You want to hear the wheel making a slight dragging sound; if it spins free with no drag it probably isn't adjusted tight enough.

[rbryan4]

Follow the link that Myron posted. It's a good one. Also, when it comes to brake controllers, you get what you pay for. I would highly recommend a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy or another high quality proportional controller. Pricey but peace of mind is a good thing.

[NW Cat Owner]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Follow the link that Myron posted. It's a good one. Also, when it comes to brake controllers, you get what you pay for. I would highly recommend a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy or another high quality proportional controller. Pricey but peace of mind is a good thing.

Already read and bookmarked, as is this thread. Thanks guys.

[cpaharley2008]

If you have ever ridden a motorcycle you will learn how to apply the brakes, front and rear, simultaneously, in order to stop. If you only use the front, you may lose control, if only the rear you will most likely skid. Trailer brakes are similar. You adjust the trailer's brakes by the amount of 12v being applied to the trailer. If the trailer brakes lock up, you will have a skid, similar to rear on the motorcycle. If too little juice, then your tow vehicle is doing all the stopping and you may not stop soon enough. You take the trailer and tow vehicle to a parking lot and practice applying the brake to where you can feel the trailer brakes grabbing, but not skidding. You adjust the brake controller to that sweet spot. By applying both sets of brakes (trailer and tow vehicle) together, you will then stop correctly.

[Fox hunt]

i sometime feel a clump if my trailer brakes are too low the trailer bumps into the hitch/ tow when breaking when too high I feel a pull /jerk as they lock up. I really no nothing but that's what i feel as i adjust them.

[cpaharley2008]

Sounds like your hitch is loose, there should be no play, in or out, up or down between the hitch, the stinger and the trailer. They have hitch tighteners available here hitch tightener - etrailer.com Search

[tractors1]

I use gravel roads to figure out the brake controller setting. Ideally you want both the tow and trailer to skid on the gravel at the same time.

[jennykatz]

We have surge brakes on our Lil Snoozy I know it's not an escape but we are looking at the 5.0TA Anyway instead of elec brakes with controller why not go with Elec /over hydraulic like the big boats have .You use hydraulics to stop Disc brakes and elec motor to push hydraulics fluid which is tied into your brake lights no contolerr plus using disc brakes are a lot better then elec magnetic for stopping .
I guess this system costs more then elec magnetic but from all my research the elec brakes seem to be a PITA with contolle,r magnets etc .With elec/over Hydraulic there is less to go wrong much more like what we drive (cars ,trucks)I wonder if ETI would do this system for me ?