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Old 07-07-2015, 12:58 PM   #31
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1, Yes, all 4 wheels.

2. The controller activates the trailer brakes according to the pressure on the peddle. It does have to be initially adjusted. Lots of different models out there. They can also be manually operated, so only the trailer brakes activate, used in some emergency situations (though fairly rare) and when setting the brakes up in the first place.

3. I believe Escape can install, but I would get it installed with the new truck. With some trucks, like my F-350, it is built into the vehicle.

4. Proper adjustment, following the brake controller manufacture adjustments, will ensure proper braking. You do want to feel the trailer a bit when braking.

5. You can see them in the mirror, hear them, or yes...see the smoke. No freaking out required. If all your brakes are properly adjusted, when they lock up, they actually pull you straight, which is something good in an emergency.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:04 PM   #32
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Re: "...clueless about braking..."

Might go here to begin your education...

Trailer Maintenance - HowStuffWorks
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:10 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daubsy View Post
I think I may be having similar problems with my trailer brakes. I realized today that my truck brakes are doing most of the work. Anything above 4.5 without any boost causes lock up with light braking.

P.S. Don't go through Sonora Pass. Should have done my research.
Whipped out my Mountain Directory West: Sonora Pass has a sign for westbound traffic(off Hwy 395) that states "26% grade 10 miles ahead." While it is a very short section of road on the east slope there are 10-15% grades in a number of places on both sides of the pass. The westbound descent from the summit to Kennedy Meadows is about 10 miles of grades that vary from 6-14%.

On your brakes- the first thing you should do is check your adjustment. If you have a flat blade screwdriver it is pretty easy. On the back of the drum there are two slots. Take a flashlight and look to see which one has a star wheel. Make the wheel go upwards until you cannot turn it anymore(wheel should be locked up at this point) then back it off 7 clicks. This info came from Dexter tech support when I was having issues last year. This adjustment should be done every 3,000 miles.

You want to hear the wheel making a slight dragging sound; if it spins free with no drag it probably isn't adjusted tight enough.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:09 PM   #34
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Follow the link that Myron posted. It's a good one. Also, when it comes to brake controllers, you get what you pay for. I would highly recommend a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy or another high quality proportional controller. Pricey but peace of mind is a good thing.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:20 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
Follow the link that Myron posted. It's a good one. Also, when it comes to brake controllers, you get what you pay for. I would highly recommend a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy or another high quality proportional controller. Pricey but peace of mind is a good thing.
Already read and bookmarked, as is this thread. Thanks guys.
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Old 07-07-2015, 03:28 PM   #36
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If you have ever ridden a motorcycle you will learn how to apply the brakes, front and rear, simultaneously, in order to stop. If you only use the front, you may lose control, if only the rear you will most likely skid. Trailer brakes are similar. You adjust the trailer's brakes by the amount of 12v being applied to the trailer. If the trailer brakes lock up, you will have a skid, similar to rear on the motorcycle. If too little juice, then your tow vehicle is doing all the stopping and you may not stop soon enough. You take the trailer and tow vehicle to a parking lot and practice applying the brake to where you can feel the trailer brakes grabbing, but not skidding. You adjust the brake controller to that sweet spot. By applying both sets of brakes (trailer and tow vehicle) together, you will then stop correctly.
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:18 PM   #37
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i sometime feel a clump if my trailer brakes are too low the trailer bumps into the hitch/ tow when breaking when too high I feel a pull /jerk as they lock up. I really no nothing but that's what i feel as i adjust them.
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:39 PM   #38
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Sounds like your hitch is loose, there should be no play, in or out, up or down between the hitch, the stinger and the trailer. They have hitch tighteners available here hitch tightener - etrailer.com Search
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:50 PM   #39
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I use gravel roads to figure out the brake controller setting. Ideally you want both the tow and trailer to skid on the gravel at the same time.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:41 AM   #40
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Brakes

We have surge brakes on our Lil Snoozy I know it's not an escape but we are looking at the 5.0TA Anyway instead of elec brakes with controller why not go with Elec /over hydraulic like the big boats have .You use hydraulics to stop Disc brakes and elec motor to push hydraulics fluid which is tied into your brake lights no contolerr plus using disc brakes are a lot better then elec magnetic for stopping .
I guess this system costs more then elec magnetic but from all my research the elec brakes seem to be a PITA with contolle,r magnets etc .With elec/over Hydraulic there is less to go wrong much more like what we drive (cars ,trucks)I wonder if ETI would do this system for me ?
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