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Old 01-11-2009, 12:32 PM   #21
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Re: cabinet condensation


I got the recommendation (about disconnecting the battery if you're plugged in for a long time) from that other web site. I don't know if it is really an issue or not. I would think that when fully charged the battery would be on a trickle charge, but I just played it safe.

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Old 01-11-2009, 02:37 PM   #22
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Re: cabinet condensation

Maybe I'm all wrong but I thought the purpose of the battery diconnect was to prevent the battery from draining due to some interior electrical 12 volt things. For example if an outlet on the electrical system had a photo sensitive nightlight plugged in, it would still be active and contribute to battery drain. Same for connected electrical jacks. Since I did not do well in that arena in physics, please correct me if I am mistaken.
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Old 01-11-2009, 04:31 PM   #23
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Re: cabinet condensation

Well, I'm not sure that's it Sandra. Your battery wouldn't be draining if you are plugged into outside power (unless you trip you breaker of course). If you were'nt hooked up, then that would be true. But the recommendation, and I've read it too baglo, that you disconnect, even if you are plugged in so that it won't ..........................! That's what I'm wondering, so it won't WHAT? I can see 6+6=12 when hooked up in series, but why more capacity? I like the idea, and we've ordered two 6V batteries on HokieEscape (because we boondock more than fully equiped campgrounds), but I just wonder about the science behind it? I also like GOOD EATS with Alton Brown, ie. what does adding that do to the mixture?
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Old 01-11-2009, 04:41 PM   #24
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Re: cabinet condensation

That's what I thought, that when one was not hooked up to shore power it (the battery) should be disconnected, and I am anxious to learn why there should be a disconnect when one IS hooked up.
But then I'm no electrical wizard.
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Old 01-11-2009, 04:52 PM   #25
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Re: cabinet condensation


The suggestion was that if you have your shore power plugged in for a long time, like over winter, that your battery will run dry.

If you're not plugged in then you disconnect because the propane detector will deplete the battery since it's alway live.

I'm sure Alton Brown had an episode on this at some time.

Another fan,

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Old 01-11-2009, 11:22 PM   #26
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Re: cabinet condensation

Replying to two threads in one:

In really damp cold weather condesation will be a problem no matter what, especially around the windows. I had Reace and crew install the round vents he descibes earlier and don't have escessive moisture in the under dinette storage areas. My biggest condensation problem comes from the tight fit between the mattress and outer wall of the trailer. I think the pads should have a looser fit, maybe even an 1" of air space all around, but I understand they don't so the fit is not sloppy. With me full timing and using the bed daily I may have a custom mattress made with the needed air space. For now I have added a layer of insulating foam around the bed which helped some. On really cold nights I have had frost on the mattress sides!

The battery should be disconnected if in storage for long periods, like 8+ weeks or all winter. It would be best to place it on a trickle charger in a warm enviroment or at least protected from freezing. Batteries will gradually drain if left completely disconnected and can be killed if left at high charge rates continously. Two 6 volt batts hooked in parallel give 12 volts, but nearly double the amperage or storage ability, but they also are double the weight and double the wiring complexity. I went with the biggest Optima Yellow Top 12 volt Reace could find. With the battery on the rear bumper it is subject to a lot more vibration and jarring than the customary tongue mount and the Optimas are justifiably famous for holding up to such abuse. Even better is an Odessy battery but they are way too expensive.

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Old 03-28-2009, 09:31 PM   #27
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Re: cabinet condensation


It's been about six weeks, but today I emptied my Dry-Z-air containers. I have two in the Toad ( supposed to have one for each 10 square feet ). I was surprised how much water was in the containers. I must have poured out at least three cups, maybe four.

And still, the humidity in the trailer was at 75 per cent according to my recently installed instruments.

So, it appears that Dry-Z-Air works, but you still might want to open all the cupboards, doors and windows on a nice sunny day, maybe tomorrow.

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Old 04-06-2009, 08:37 PM   #28
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Re: cabinet condensation

I also had two Dry-Z-Air pods, one in the front and one in the back.
Today, after about a month, I checked them and emptied at least a cup-and-a-half to two cups of water that had collected.
baglo

[/quote]

Today I went out to the Toad to get a sleeping bag and managed to knock over one of the Dry-Z-Air containers, which was a learning experience.

What I assumed to be water in the collecting bowl isn't.

I'm not sure what it is, but it's a chemical fusion of moisture and the crystals in Dry-Z-Air. I tried to wipe it up with a paper towel, but the towel didn't absorb it like water, more like trying to wipe up oil. It is a clear substance though and sure looks like water.

Which got me to thinking....just how much of what I've collected is water and how much is the melted crystals?

Am I really accomplishing much?

baglo

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Old 04-06-2009, 08:58 PM   #29
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Re: cabinet condensation

Hi: gbaglo...What is that residue in the dish anyway My wife went to toss it out on the gravel driveway and the wind blew it back onto the door step...boy is it slick... and it took some washing to get it all off
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 04-06-2009, 09:17 PM   #30
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Re: cabinet condensation


I don't know. I shall Google.

baglo
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