Check the back of your 30 amp plug in inlet

[wetzk]

I added a 15 amp power inlet today for an extra outlet that I can power without using the 30 amp.
While I was under the bed I noticed a lot of light coming from the 30 amp . I looked closely and it looked like it was exposed to the outside. So we closed the cover and ran water at the outside roof line.
No leak, opened the cover and ran water, again no leak. Plugged a cord in and tried it again. Water dribbled in. I sealed it and will test it again tomorrow but I'm sure it will not leak anymore.

[steve dunham]

I hope you put an isolotion / transfer switch between the 30 amp and the 15 amp inlet. If I understand you correctly you have created a double ended feed for your trailer , which if installed improperly creates a hazard . The same reason you have a transfer switch when you have an inverter. You don't want to back feed the 120 VAC from the inverter into the utility lines.
This is the reason a trailer only comes with one inlet or service cord and you don't find one on both sides of the trailer even though it would be more convenient at times.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by steve dunham

I hope you put an isolotion / transfer switch between the 30 amp and the 15 amp inlet. If I understand you correctly you have created a double ended feed for your trailer , which if installed improperly creates a hazard . The same reason you have a transfer switch when you have an inverter. You don't want to back feed
the 120 VAC from the inverter into the utility lines.

The 15 amp is completely separate. It runs to one outlet and no further. Its main purpose is to power a dehumidifier so we do not get mildew growing in the trailer. But others who have them also use them as additional power, lets say you have the air conditioner and microwave running and want to also run something else.
I've always installed one in my trailers and run a dehumidifier during the summer.

[Ron in BC]

Maybe I read it wrong but I thought that by "extra outlet" he meant one that was only powered by a 15 amp cord and not in any way tied into any other circuits.

If that's the case, I have the same set-up. I use it to power my heat source in the winter while all the other circuits etc. aren't connected to shore power.

Ron

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

Maybe I read it wrong but I thought that by "extra outlet" he meant one that was only powered by a 15 amp cord and not in any way tied into any other circuits.

If that's the case, I have the same set-up. I use it to power my heat source in the winter while all the other circuits etc. aren't connected to shore power.

Ron

I evidently misread the intent of the OP's post. Back during Y2K there was a huge problem with homeowner installed generators backfeeding into the utility grid and creating a possibly deadly condition. Now we are seeing the same issue with solar and inverters.

[wetzk]

Hopefully ours is the only trailer that had a potential leak. It's a easy fix at least, just seal the lit area on the back of the 30 amp inlet. I'm going to repeat the water test tomorrow but it should not leak anymore. .

[cpaharley2008]

So basically you are using 45 amps at the cg, do you pay for the 50 amp uncharge or just hook up both and hope for the best, some camp ground charge more for 50 amp service, like the big buses with 2 air conditioning units and rightfully so since they are using a lot more electricity.

[wetzk]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

So basically you are using 45 amps at the cg, do you pay for the 50 amp uncharge or just hook up both and hope for the best, some camp ground charge more for 50 amp service, like the big buses with 2 air conditioning units and rightfully so since they are using a lot more electricity.

Nope, I'm using 15 amps at the house. The new part is for a dehumidifier when it is setting at home.

But I can see it's waste to show anything with all the self appointed experts so I'll cease posting.

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by wetzk

Nope, I'm using 15 amps at the house. The new part is for a dehumidifier when it is setting at home.

But I can see it's waste to show anything with all the self appointed experts so I'll cease posting.

Thanks for the info. Looks like more Proflex.

[gbaglo]

Originally Posted by wetzk

But I can see it's waste to show anything with all the self appointed experts so I'll cease posting.

If all people ever posted was , we'd be bored to death and learn nothing.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by wetzk

But I can see it's waste to show anything with all the self appointed experts so I'll cease posting.

Originally Posted by gbaglo

If all people ever posted was , we'd be bored to death and learn nothing.

I'm with Glenn, I read more than I will ever post. My job is to fix broken stuff, not to be some kind of expert. Which no one would ever accuse me of being

[Tin]

Originally Posted by wetzk

Nope, I'm using 15 amps at the house. The new part is for a dehumidifier when it is setting at home.

But I can see it's waste to show anything with all the self appointed experts so I'll cease posting.

Hi Wetzk, Please keep posting I for one am very interested in reading anything that pertains to possible water intrusion. I like many want to learn about it and check our own trailers.

[steve dunham]

Wetzk , I suggest you read NEC Art #551 pertaining to RV wiring and your installation.
You may be unpleasantly surprised.

[freespirit]

Originally Posted by wetzk

I added a 15 amp power inlet today for an extra outlet that I can power without using the 30 amp.
While I was under the bed I noticed a lot of light coming from the 30 amp . I looked closely and it looked like it was exposed to the outside. So we closed the cover and ran water at the outside roof line.
No leak, opened the cover and ran water, again no leak. Plugged a cord in and tried it again. Water dribbled in. I sealed it and will test it again tomorrow but I'm sure it will not leak anymore.

wetz..thanks for posting this topic
not sure if you have the same connector, but looking at an actual Conntek part labeled PN # 80425-WT 30A 125V inlets: Round housing, White-Twist Lock NEMA L5-30P 30A 125V power inlet ...

When the cover is closed there is a gasket on the inside of the cover such that when the cover is snapped shut it should seal. If the cover is not snapped shut then that gasket may not engage all the way around it.

With the cover open, the interior of the Conntek power inlet enclosure has several openings around the actual male plug mounted inside and there appears to be areas exposed to the outside that also go all the way thru to the backside of the power inlet enclosure. So with the cover open or not snapped shut , possibly water and/or critters can enter the enclosure and go all the way thru into the trailer if the cord plug is not inserted.

With the cord plug inserted and the screw ring engaged then pressure should be applied to the black molded ring on the inside of the power inlet along the outer edges and theoretically water is not able to enter the power inlet. Like when it rains! However this black molded ring inside is not necessarily a pliant gasket but rather hard. So assuming you have the same or similar power inlet connector, perhaps in your test if the cord plug was inserted but the threaded ring was not a tight seal and/or the plug was not applying pressure correctly to the black molded ring inside.... then perhaps water flowed around the cord plug and into the power inlet enclosure and out the backside.

So in another post you indicated you applied sealant to the backside of the power inlet enclosure on the inside of the trailer?
Another possibility might be to apply sealant from the outside around the actual male power connector mounted inside the Conntek power inlet enclosure to prevent water from entering the power inlet enclosure and thus all the way thru to the backside of the power inlet?

Looks like the Conntek power inlet enclosure was designed to use an off the shelf male power connector..makes sense in that it should be easier to get agency approvals, but it might be nice if it was sealed better around the male connector on the inside of the power inlet enclosure.
Perhaps some "elephant snot " sealant is appropriate around the inside around the male power connector mounted inside the Conntek PN # 80425-WT 30A 125V inlets: Round housing, White-Twist Lock NEMA L5-30P 30A 125V power inlet.....yours may be different.

also noticed that in the bag with this part there is a specially shaped gasket to be mounted between the power inlet enclosure mounting lip and the exterior surface it is mounted to.

wetz..thanks for posting this topic and bringing attention to what might be a water intrusion issue on other trailers that have this power inlet. This camper had not previously inspected the Conntek power inlet closely after purchasing one at a local RV dealer...although it was on the TODO list... now wondering if perhaps the Marinco, Smartplug or Furrion power inlets might seal better open and/or closed...and especially when the cord plug is inserted during a rain event...perhaps if someone else has one of these other mfg power inlets they can look closely at their part and share their perspective.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

So basically you are using 45 amps at the cg, do you pay for the 50 amp uncharge or just hook up both and hope for the best, some camp ground charge more for 50 amp service, like the big buses with 2 air conditioning units and rightfully so since they are using a lot more electricity.

The charge for a campsite is normally based on what service is available, not what you use. If you get a "50 amp" site but only use less than 30 amps, you pay for 50-amp service and don't get a discount. If you get a "30 amp" site which has a 30-amp outlet and a 15-amp outlet, you pay for 30-amp service regardless of how much (or how little) power you use.

Long-term sites often have meters, so the customer pays for actual energy used. When the same site (such as those at Nk'Mip used for the Escape Rally) is used by short-term campers, they are charged a flat rate based on the available service, instead of following the administrative procedure to charge for actual energy. I'm sure that some people plugged into only one 30-amp outlet use more energy per day than some other people plugged into a 50-amp outlet; that's okay, because that's the product model that the campground has chosen.

In forums such as this one, I have often read advice to use electric heat sources (space heaters, water heaters, and cooking appliances) rather than propane "because you already paid for it". I think it's a good thing that everybody doesn't try to squeeze everything they can out of others whether they need it or not, but at the same time I have no problem people using the service for which they have paid. If they give you two outlets with separate current limits, and don't have a rule against using both, then you're entitled to use both. In cold weather, an extra 15-amp or 20-amp outlet is often used to power heat tracing on water hoses, in addition to power used from the 30-amp or 50-amp main service into the RV.

Setting up an RV to maximize the power available when it is needed certainly does not mean using more energy in total over the stay in the campground. Again, it's a service type charge, not an energy charge.

The separate 15-amp inlet described by wetzk and Ron isn't even used at the same time as the 30-amp inlet, so it certainly isn't a system to get around the limit to power available in a campsite.

[Brian B-P]

Since the 15-amp and 30-amp inlets are not connected to the same system, the remaining risk is that someone shuts off the main breaker (thus ensuring that there is no power in anything connected to the power centre's distribution panel), and doesn't realize that the one outlet connected to the 15-amp inlet is still live. While it may not comply with NEC electrical code requirements - or Canada's CSA Z240 - it seems prudent to me to label both the power centre panel and the individual outlet with a warning that there are two separately powered systems in the trailer.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by freespirit

wetz..thanks for posting this topic
not sure if you have the same connector, but looking at an actual Conntek part labeled PN # 80425-WT 30A 125V inlets: Round housing, White-Twist Lock NEMA L5-30P 30A 125V power inlet ...

When the cover is closed there is a gasket on the inside of the cover such that when the cover is snapped shut it should seal. If the cover is not snapped shut then that gasket may not engage all the way around it.

With the cover open, the interior of the Conntek power inlet enclosure has several openings around the actual male plug mounted inside and there appears to be areas exposed to the outside that also go all the way thru to the backside of the power inlet enclosure. So with the cover open or not snapped shut , possibly water and/or critters can enter the enclosure and go all the way thru into the trailer if the cord plug is not inserted.

With the cord plug inserted and the screw ring engaged then pressure should be applied to the black molded ring on the inside of the power inlet along the outer edges and theoretically water is not able to enter the power inlet. Like when it rains! However this black molded ring inside is not necessarily a pliant gasket but rather hard. So assuming you have the same or similar power inlet connector, perhaps in your test if the cord plug was inserted but the threaded ring was not a tight seal and/or the plug was not applying pressure correctly to the black molded ring inside.... then perhaps water flowed around the cord plug and into the power inlet enclosure and out the backside.

So in another post you indicated you applied sealant to the backside of the power inlet enclosure on the inside of the trailer?
Another possibility might be to apply sealant from the outside around the actual male power connector mounted inside the Conntek power inlet enclosure to prevent water from entering the power inlet enclosure and thus all the way thru to the backside of the power inlet?

Looks like the Conntek power inlet enclosure was designed to use an off the shelf male power connector..makes sense in that it should be easier to get agency approvals, but it might be nice if it was sealed better around the male connector on the inside of the power inlet enclosure.
Perhaps some "elephant snot " sealant is appropriate around the inside around the male power connector mounted inside the Conntek PN # 80425-WT 30A 125V inlets: Round housing, White-Twist Lock NEMA L5-30P 30A 125V power inlet.....yours may be different.

also noticed that in the bag with this part there is a specially shaped gasket to be mounted between the power inlet enclosure mounting lip and the exterior surface it is mounted to.

wetz..thanks for posting this topic and bringing attention to what might be a water intrusion issue on other trailers that have this power inlet. This camper had not previously inspected the Conntek power inlet closely after purchasing one at a local RV dealer...although it was on the TODO list... now wondering if perhaps the Marinco, Smartplug or Furrion power inlets might seal better open and/or closed...and especially when the cord plug is inserted during a rain event...perhaps if someone else has one of these other mfg power inlets they can look closely at their part and share their perspective.

Smartplug seals really well . You don't need to twist or turn rings . You just push easily into inlet . Couldn't be easier . Pat

[Fox hunt]

Why would you need a separate plug to use your dehumidifier I just use a 15 adapter and use my 30 plug.

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Since the 15-amp and 30-amp inlets are not connected to the same system, the remaining risk is that someone shuts off the main breaker (thus ensuring that there is no power in anything connected to the power centre's distribution panel), and doesn't realize that the one outlet connected to the 15-amp inlet is still live. While it may not comply with NEC electrical code requirements - or Canada's CSA Z240 - it seems prudent to me to label both the power centre panel and the individual outlet with a warning that there are two separately powered systems in the trailer.

There are several code violations and safety hazards with this installation. Fox Hunt asked the logical question " Why not use the 30 amp factory cord with adaptor ?

Be cautious , you do not want to trap water in the inlet .
If you seal the receptacle water may not enter your trailer but it may collect and destroy the inlet leading to a far worse hazard.
The foam gaskets supplied with WP covers do a poor job of keeping water out that's why you drill drain holes in Bell boxes
and service LB's. Plus the inlet is exposed to both interior and exterior temperature ( exterior wall penetration ) leading to possible condensation which you don't want to trap either.

[cpaharley2008]

I had thought about adding a separate 15 amp outlet to my Lance trailer in order to use a wall type radiant heater on a wall that had no electric. It was easier to run a separate outlet/circuit for the heater from the outside than to wire it on the inside. But I hesitated since I thought that cg's would charge me extra if they saw 2 cords to my trailer. Some even stated "electric heaters" extra $5/day in their prices. So I can see the need for such an outlet and as long as their is no additional charge, why not run a direct line for a high use appliance, as long as it is separate from the other electrical appliances and a fuse/circuit box is used to meet applicable codes.
This is another reason why when installing my electric wall mount heaters, I always use the lower watt models, 750 vs 1500 watts in order not to overload a circuit inside the trailer and to save some reserve for other electrical uses. These electric heaters supplement my propane furnace and are not used 'in lieu of" the furnace.