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Old 04-17-2019, 02:19 PM   #1
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City Water Inlet Help

Hi folks, I have a 2014 Escape 21 trailer. It is well built and has been pretty trouble free. My issue is in the last couple of years the City Water Inlet on the outside of the trailer has started to leak behind the white knob. I have a pressure reducer on the line and have ensured the washers in the hose connections are fine. It is leaking behind the knob....so I figure the connection between knob and the inside (assume it is a pex connection) has come loose. Any advice on how to get to it and then to fix? I am assuming my best option is to drill out the rivets and hopefully it will lift out and I can fix it then...I hope. Appreciate any insights you folks might have. Thanks for your help. Jim M
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:14 PM   #2
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If I was going to the trouble of removing it I;d replace it with a new one. I think this is the one for my trailer.
https://www.easternmarine.com/citygr...te-497-ab-2p-a
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Old 04-17-2019, 04:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by padlin View Post
If I was going to the trouble of removing it I;d replace it with a new one. I think this is the one for my trailer.
https://www.easternmarine.com/citygr...te-497-ab-2p-a



Thanks Bob, I will do that....no sense in keeping the old....better to replace all parts at the same time. appreciate the reply.
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Old 04-17-2019, 06:55 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by camperwa View Post
Hi folks, I have a 2014 Escape 21 trailer. It is well built and has been pretty trouble free. My issue is in the last couple of years the City Water Inlet on the outside of the trailer has started to leak behind the white knob. I have a pressure reducer on the line and have ensured the washers in the hose connections are fine. It is leaking behind the knob....so I figure the connection between knob and the inside (assume it is a pex connection) has come loose. Any advice on how to get to it and then to fix? I am assuming my best option is to drill out the rivets and hopefully it will lift out and I can fix it then...I hope. Appreciate any insights you folks might have. Thanks for your help. Jim M
I've noticed that when I connect the water hose to the city water inlet, it puts a lot of strain on the fitting. I started using this and it really helps.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-90-...xoCNfQQAvD_BwE
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File Type: jpeg 90 hose.jpeg (25.4 KB, 23 views)
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Old 04-17-2019, 08:44 PM   #5
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That 90 is just a lot easier on everything...I use one as well.
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Old 04-17-2019, 08:52 PM   #6
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That 90 is just a lot easier on everything...I use one as well.
I too use the 90, PLUS I added a quick connect to the trailer and the other side to the 90. Leak free results, I'll never cross thread the plastic and hooking up the trailer side takes all of about 3 seconds. Love it!
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:56 PM   #7
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Sounds good...is the part left on the trailer open or do you have a cap for it?
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:20 PM   #8
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Sounds good...is the part left on the trailer open or do you have a cap for it?
Talking to me? I cap off the part on the trailer when the hose is not connected. A 3/8" (I THINK) vinyl chair cap fits pretty tight (at least it's never blown off.) I bought a second set of plastic quick connects and filled both with JB weld. One part pushes into the 90 and the other screws into the other end (pressure regulator). Before the quick connects, I screwed both ends of the hose together to prevent dribbles... like everyone does. But needed to stop dribbles since the ends can no longer be screwed together.


I'm picking up Ten Forward for it's Spring bath in a bit more than a week. I'll take some pics and post.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:36 PM   #9
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Great...thanks.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:51 PM   #10
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And when you're hooked up to city water, do you remember to shut off the supply faucet each, and every time, you leave the trailer for a bit, or do you mostly just hope a leak won't start in your absence?
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:53 PM   #11
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Sounds good...is the part left on the trailer open or do you have a cap for it?
I use quick-connect hose connectors and leave an adapter in the city water inlet, too. I use the combination of another adapter (quick-connect to male hose thread) and a hose thread cap as a cap when the hose isn't on.

I like to coil hoses and connect them to themselves - both propane and water. The usual garden hose quick-connect system uses male fittings on both faucets and end devices, and female couplers on both ends of the hose... which keeps the hose from being able to connect to itself. A solution is to disregard the standard and use one style upstream and the other downstream (e.g. female coupler on water source and outlets of hoses + male fittings on inlets (to hoses, and the trailer, etc). This requires choosing the bits of hardware correctly to get the right threads, and it is what I have done on my hoses and filter setup.

The alternative to enable coiling up hoses is to use the regular configuration, but connect the hose ends with the fitting intended to connect two hoses together, which Gardena calls an "extension joint".

There is a line of connectors for RVs called Kwik-Link, but I just use common garden hose fittings (and I find Gardena are better than the generic brass pieces) - it looks like the Kwik-Link system is interoperable with the fittings I use. Their standard inlet adapter looks good because it is right-angled so the hose would hang straight down without an extra elbow... but I don't know if that makes it worth US$18 (and unknown shipping issues) to me.
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
I've noticed that when I connect the water hose to the city water inlet, it puts a lot of strain on the fitting. I started using this and it really helps.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-90-...xoCNfQQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the tip on the 90 degree elbow....I pick one up and see if that helps. Appreciate your input. Jim
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Old 04-18-2019, 06:28 AM   #13
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And when you're hooked up to city water, do you remember to shut off the supply faucet each, and every time, you leave the trailer for a bit, or do you mostly just hope a leak won't start in your absence?
I leave mine on. I've yet to hear of anyone having a problem doing so but if it makes one feel better to do so, go for it.
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:31 PM   #14
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I leave mine on. I've yet to hear of anyone having a problem doing so but if it makes one feel better to do so, go for it.
Actually, even Escape trailers are subject to plumbing leaks. They are built by people using products made by people. As such they are subject to flaws.

I never hook up to city water but run off the pump instead. Three reasons.

1) Should you forget to shut off the water supply when you leave the trailer for an outing and something starts to leak, the resultant flood will only be limited by the amount of water contained in the municipal water system. If running off the pump, the flood will be limited to the amount of water currently in your fresh water holding tank.

2) If you are inside the trailer and a leak starts and you are on city water, your first clue may be when you step in a puddle. If you’re running off the pump, you will hear the pump cycle on and off as soon as water pressure drops from the leak. You may even hear the pump cycle on when sleeping.

3) Keeping the water fresh. When running off city water for an extended time, the water sitting unused in the tank gets stale. Long enough and it tends to leave a slimy feel on the tank. In fact in the Escape Owners Manual is this recommendation :
“Water should be drained from the fresh water system when not in use for more than one week. “

Between the two of us, we try to remember to shut off the pump whenever we will be away from the trailer . If you’re connected to city water, it’s even more important. As my last reminder, I have a simple Post-It note on the car dash that says 'pump'.

This procedure, while surely not for everyone, has served us well for over 45 years of RV use.

Enjoy your travels

Ed
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:44 PM   #15
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Sounds like good advice, something I may start doing
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by tdf-texas View Post
I've noticed that when I connect the water hose to the city water inlet, it puts a lot of strain on the fitting. I started using this and it really helps.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-90-...xoCNfQQAvD_BwE
Tom we also use the same for that reason . Pat
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Old 04-18-2019, 12:53 PM   #17
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Ed...it sound like you would like to push a button that would allow the pump to have power for a time you determine...say 15 minutes, then shut off until you push the button again.

http://s.aliexpress.com/rUJVbaia

This board here and an external relay would allow this type of operation.
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File Type: jpg 674B5EE7-2383-4234-8A7F-FF622237BA08.jpg (146.1 KB, 11 views)
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Old 04-18-2019, 01:26 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by EdColorado View Post
Actually, even Escape trailers are subject to plumbing leaks. They are built by people using products made by people. As such they are subject to flaws.
There are also all kinds of misfortunes unrelated to the internal plumbing integrity if you search for "flooded my trailer". Campgrounds shutting off water and owner mistakenly leaves faucet partially open. Owner leaves. Campground turns water back on and in combination with gray tank valve closed the tank overfills and floods the trailer. Turning off at the source would have prevented.

Others involve stupidity or lack of system knowledge where people (mistakenly?) hook up to black and gray tank flush connections and walk away with water on and dump valves closed. Those obviously don't end well...especially the ones involving the black tank.
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:20 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EdColorado View Post
Actually, even Escape trailers are subject to plumbing leaks. They are built by people using products made by people. As such they are subject to flaws.

I never hook up to city water but run off the pump instead. Three reasons.

1) Should you forget to shut off the water supply when you leave the trailer for an outing and something starts to leak, the resultant flood will only be limited by the amount of water contained in the municipal water system. If running off the pump, the flood will be limited to the amount of water currently in your fresh water holding tank.

2) If you are inside the trailer and a leak starts and you are on city water, your first clue may be when you step in a puddle. If you’re running off the pump, you will hear the pump cycle on and off as soon as water pressure drops from the leak. You may even hear the pump cycle on when sleeping.

3) Keeping the water fresh. When running off city water for an extended time, the water sitting unused in the tank gets stale. Long enough and it tends to leave a slimy feel on the tank. In fact in the Escape Owners Manual is this recommendation :
“Water should be drained from the fresh water system when not in use for more than one week. “

Between the two of us, we try to remember to shut off the pump whenever we will be away from the trailer . If you’re connected to city water, it’s even more important. As my last reminder, I have a simple Post-It note on the car dash that says 'pump'.

This procedure, while surely not for everyone, has served us well for over 45 years of RV use.

Enjoy your travels

Ed

Ed, Good advice. We have been running off of our pump and our fresh water tank the last year or so and see no reason to change that. Hooking up to city water is also easy but comes with its own set of problems and potential floods. Even after this fix we will continue using our fresh water and pump....like you say it is a simple method and certainly reduces the chance of unwanted floods.



As far as fixing the hatch....I may elect to just wait and bring it up to ETI and have them replace the water inlet hatch.....looks to me you would have to pull the frig to get at the back of the hatch. Thanks again. Jim
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Old 04-18-2019, 02:30 PM   #20
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No different than in my home, I just leave the trailer city water connected and pressurized. I do use a pressure regulator. Never had a problem, nor do I expect one.
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