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Old 02-08-2015, 01:47 PM   #41
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I see an SAE Solar Plug referenced on the Go power website. They have a standard pigtail made to go with their portable panels. Would be just the ticket for a direct connect to the onboard Go power controller.

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Jon V,

I see your link now for the receptacle. Looks like the ticket. Is Gopowers folding unit the opposite polarity?
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:06 PM   #42
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No idea - I have a 160 watt folding unit from Solar Blvd.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:15 PM   #43
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[QUOTE=Vermilye;81609]No idea - I have a 160 watt folding unit from Solar Blvd.[/QUOTE

So is the Solar Blvd the same polarity? Should not matter unless you contact frame of trailer with collector frame. 160 looks like a good deal!
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Old 02-08-2015, 09:09 PM   #44
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I was referring to a twist lock flanged inlet like the below pictured. My concern for a standard 110 volt plug flanged inlet would be someone plugging a standard drop cord into it and destroying your solar controller. These inlets are available at a local electrical supply house.
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Old 02-08-2015, 11:41 PM   #45
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My concern for a standard 110 volt plug flanged inlet would be someone plugging a standard drop cord into it and destroying your solar controller.
I agree!

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I was referring to a twist lock flanged inlet like the below pictured.
...
These inlets are available at a local electrical supply house.
According to the box, confirmed by the appearance of the contacts, that's a 50-amp 3-wire (plus outer ground terminal), so it's an L5-50 - a higher-current variant of the style commonly used for portable generator output and for removable shore power cords on 30-amp RVs such as Escapes.

That increases the current-carrying capacity (AC, anyway) to 50 amps instead of 15 amps for the other AC connector shown, but it is still interchangeable with cords carrying 120 volts AC. Of course, no one has one of these around a typical campsite, so an accident is unlikely... but it's a huge thing that mates with another huge connector and the trailer side is not designed for outdoor mounting so it would need to go behind a protective door.

There might be a precedent for this use of connectors for purposes incompatible with their intended use: Marinco - a generally reputable supplier of marine and RV electrical hardware - suggests the L5-30 (locking 30-amp 125V AC) connector as a "30 Amp Trolling System"... and trolling motors are 12V or 24V DC. I wouldn't do it.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:56 AM   #46
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[QUOTE=skiman;81622]
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Originally Posted by Vermilye View Post
No idea - I have a 160 watt folding unit from Solar Blvd.[/QUOTE

So is the Solar Blvd the same polarity? Should not matter unless you contact frame of trailer with collector frame. 160 looks like a good deal!
No idea on the polarity; I've never bothered to check. I have a review of the Solar Blvd folding panel here.
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:30 AM   #47
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Using socket for winter charging...

Quote:
Originally Posted by skiman View Post
I see an SAE Solar Plug referenced on the Go power website. They have a standard pigtail made to go with their portable panels. Would be just the ticket for a direct connect to the onboard Go power controller.

SAE Solar Plug | GPElectric





Zamp Solar Roof/Sidewall Solar Plug
Thought of another advantage to adding socket for a remote panel. I have a small 6 watt panel that would be perfect for keeping batteries topped off when the trailer has the cover on it. Just plug it in and leave it in the sun. I do get some charge through the cover as Donna has said but not with six inches of snow on top.
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