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Old 01-21-2015, 11:17 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by iamunique127 View Post
I don't blame you. Those are some ugly looking screws for a relatively new trailer. When was it made?
August 2014. Thank you. I understand things can seem so simple if you don't understand the big picture.

The 'good ideas' are fine it's the 'sell side' people who's goal is to discredit you that are out of line. Their goal is obviously to sell trailers and collect the bounty.
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:40 AM   #62
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"Sell side" people? Collecting "bounty"? Huh?
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Old 01-21-2015, 11:59 AM   #63
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I really don't think there's a 'sell side' to this Klem. I've seen helpful hints to rectify the problem in this thread and so far nobody seems to want to collect a bounty. Most of the helpful hints are a quick fix too. Painting or clear coating the heads or swapping the screws for SS screws can happen today. Waiting for somebody else to do it will probably take longer.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:06 PM   #64
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The screw label on my bag of stainless says #8 X 5/8". After torquing of the heads I called Albanyfasteners.com and was told that the stainless going into aluminum frame was not a good idea unless you used a washer that was stainless on one side and some non-metallic finish on the other. Otherwise the dissimilar metals will cause corrosion. The OEM screws are anodized steel I believe; they are not powder coated.

In one PM I exchanged with a forum member he alluded to having a small plastic washer under his screws in one of the earliest 21's built. I don't have them and don't remember if the 2010 17B did.
True, stainless and aluminum hate each other. On threaded fasteners you can use an anti seize compound but not so easy on a sheet metal screw. The washer helps but there will still be corrosion (erosion) of the aluminum where the threads contact. To make matters worse zinc and aluminum do not get along as well. I once left an aluminum framing square in a box with some galvanized nails. The pits in the framing square were about 1/32 of an inch deep after about a week.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:06 PM   #65
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"Sell side" people? Collecting "bounty"? Huh?
Not understanding this either?

Maybe add "Conspiracy Theory" to the list too.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:22 PM   #66
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I dunno 'bout that, my dad's 1955 Buick survived 3 teenage boys and was still going strong with about 100K miles on the clock when I went into the service.
Well as long as they didn't "miss that shift on that long decline, long may you run" (Neil Young referring to his 1948 Buick Roadmaster Hearse )
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:39 PM   #67
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August 2014. ...The 'good ideas' are fine it's the 'sell side' people who's goal is to discredit you that are out of line. Their goal is obviously to sell trailers and collect the bounty.
Although the "commission" paid by Escape for a trailer showing resulting in a sale is nice to get, it is not going to pay the bills for too many of us (I would have to sell a thousand to make it worthwhile quitting my job ). People on this forum who are enthusiastic about their Escapes and show them off to others, do so because they are generally pleased with the product. I doubt very much that there would be very many owners trying to sell trailers if they were unhappy with the product.
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Old 01-21-2015, 01:45 PM   #68
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I'm getting ready to show Ten Forward to the sixth couple since October. I'll continue to show the 5er off as long as the interior doesn't look shabby. I can't help but get excited when talking about it.
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:30 PM   #69
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Have some rust, June build. Amount varies from just noticeable, to very noticeable, Don't think I would have seen it if I hadn't gone looking.

One of the worse.
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P1012971 (600 x 450).jpg  
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Old 01-21-2015, 02:54 PM   #70
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I'll try to explain:

We have a 2 year warranty on the 'trailer' with ETI and I would recommend reporting to them and waiting for their response prior to solving your problem. (like using your own screws) IF you pick your screws and there is any problem in the future with the windows I would expect ETI to question if 'you' had voided your warranty on the windows by changing the screws without reporting it to them and using their materials/methods.


It's not a 'crisis' that the screws are rusting but I choose to show them respect and sent an email. They requested pictures and I complied, they should ask for that. Reace sent me a response that the screws would be in the mail soon. I will carefully try to replace them and IF I have any problems I am comfortable contacting Reace.

I posted my pictures and justification to help others identify the screws and see my justification.

As for painting the heads myself ... rust will "grow" if not removed or neutralized and painting the heads would result in the paint falling off and rust spreading. It would only postpone the inevitable ugly heads showing. And then they would not be under warranty.

I recommend you work with ETI closely for warranty issues and you will be treated promptly and fairly. Consider each issue you find carefully.

My 6.7 refrig issues are my responsibility as the refrigerator is covered under the Dometic warranty. I chose to void my Dometic warranty by sending the cooling unit out for rebuilding.

I try to make rational and logical posts on this Forum. At times it feels personal and my responses have been emotional. I apologize for anyone I have offended.

Please ask logical questions and/or suggestions that are well thought out. Let's all try to show respect for each other!

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Old 01-21-2015, 03:16 PM   #71
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Klem,
I'd also suggest using a small plastic washer that may also help and can not hurt.
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Old 01-21-2015, 03:39 PM   #72
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I'm getting ready to show Ten Forward to the sixth couple since October. I'll continue to show the 5er off as long as the interior doesn't look shabby. I can't help but get excited when talking about it.
Thanks Donna for my 1st "sell side" example! And I agree you should do that if you would like

ETI has built around 1,000++ trailers! Now IF the bounty on everyone was paid that would be 250,000 smackers. I guess they all know that you must report the first dollar for US citizens. It looks like you don't have to add it to taxable income until you receive $600. and I think that's how most people handle it.

I'm not claiming to be an expert on any of this. But it may explain why some people stay on-line so many hours and seem to play a little slam Klem with twisted topic funny ... not ... posts.

My goal is to have an adult relationship with any/all of you. But I love some good ole kid fun when I hook up to the Escape
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Old 01-21-2015, 04:09 PM   #73
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Actually it is $250 Canadian dollars which is about $200 US. I told ETI to credit my fees against my purchase price and got a substantial reduction when purchasing BlackJack. Rebates and or Birddog fees are handled differently for US tax code purposes and it can be argued they are a reduction in your purchase price.
BTW, thread stray happens so much here that most moderators close their eyes these days.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:14 PM   #74
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Klem - I hope you don't seriously think that off topic posts are any sort of "slam" on you. Some of us (much to the dismay of some moderators) like to inject humor and try to keep it light and fun around here.
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Old 01-21-2015, 05:35 PM   #75
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BTW, thread stray happens so much here that most moderators close their eyes these days.
Seems to be the situation but it does get a little tedious when you are trying to follow the content of the OP. Wish more people who want to make misc. comments would post in the off-topic thread.

Now that I've looked closely at my screw heads I realize that the front, white frame window with white screws looks to me much more attractive than the black frames with the plated screw heads. So if I'm ever lacking a project I'll paint them black with Tremclad. Lots of good experience with Tremclad and I'm sure that it would stay on for a very long time.

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Old 01-21-2015, 06:02 PM   #76
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A plastic washer will help, and can't hurt, but any part of the screw shank or thread could cause galling when in contact with aluminum. I would suggest dipping the new SS screws in a lacquer based paint or clear-coat, and letting them dry prior to reinstalling if you're really concerned.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:17 PM   #77
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As a moderator with a great tolerance for threads straying off topic, I consider the forum a conversation. And, just as in a conversation around the campfire, over beers, I'm not going to tell somebody to shut up.
When it becomes apparent that we are on a totally different topic, I will move posts to a new thread title.
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Old 01-21-2015, 06:54 PM   #78
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A plastic washer will help, and can't hurt, but any part of the screw shank or thread could cause galling when in contact with aluminum. I would suggest dipping the new SS screws in a lacquer based paint or clear-coat, and letting them dry prior to reinstalling if you're really concerned.
Thanks for the tip, I have coated heads before too, but I'm hoping that after replacement we'll never think about the screws again.

I found ACF-50 by Lear Chemical Research Co. to work best for 'everything' to lightly lubricate and protect 'anything'. If you search it you will find it sold at aviation supply houses for around 12$ a can.

Thankfully I stumbled on it years ago, they actually sell it in 50 gal drums and you can spray your entire aircraft with it to stop corrosion for 2+ years. Including airframe and electronics.
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:04 PM   #79
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As a moderator with a great tolerance for threads straying off topic, I consider the forum a conversation. And, just as in a conversation around the campfire, over beers, I'm not going to tell somebody to shut up.
When it becomes apparent that we are on a totally different topic, I will move posts to a new thread title.
Glenn and I are both on point.. BTW I hate Rustoleum, no matter what the label says on the can. It doesn't STOP rust... it just hides it (hotrodder who loves POR-15).
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Old 01-21-2015, 10:06 PM   #80
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Glenn and I are both on point.. BTW I hate Rustoleum, no matter what the label says on the can. It doesn't STOP rust... it just hides it (hotrodder who loves POR-15).
It works great if the surface is rust free and primed with a rust inhibitive primer first. A bit impractical for screws.
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