DM2663 Not cooling on propane

[JPSpins]

Originally Posted by phalaney

Hey Ron,

Thanks for your help, Bob cleaned the orifice (took two times) and it appears that the fridge is now cooling down on gas. We heard a woosh, can't see the flame but everything is gettting hot to the touch and the temp in the freezer is dropping. We appreciate everyone lending us advice.

Wonderful! An early Christmas woosh come true!

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by phalaney

can't see the flame but everything is gettting hot to the touch and the temp in the freezer is dropping.

You're welcome. The burner flame is pretty small. It can be visible but not in bright conditions. Doesn't matter though, that's why I just use the touch test. Strangely enough, even though it's a fridge, hot is good.

Ron

[Iowa Dave]

Glad to hear you got your refrigerator cooling. Now you can make an entry on Page 1 of your own personal operators manual and fix it book. Everybody has a few little glitches most of which can be repaired with common tools and a chorus from that old Beatles favorite. “ I get by with a little help from my friends.” Happy Camping
Iowa Dave

[phalaney]

Yep, that is why I love this forum��

[rbryan4]

Sitting here tonight with the full moon peeking through the clouds, frogs croaking, really lovely evening - interrupted by the fridge beeping while running on propane.

Wow, what are the chances I'm having the same problem as the thread I read earlier this afternoon?

Did some troubleshooting, fridge stays lit on propane, then a few minutes later, alarms. Cycle repeats. Ugh, I thought. Another dang fridge issue to solve.

Umm, no. I was out of propane.

Where's the emoticon for a dummy? Lol

[cpaharley2008]

Robert,
Wasn't your prior problem with condensation on the light switch causing the beep?

[Mark James]

Just for future reference where is the orifice located?

[Mark James]

Also what did you use to clean it with a small wire brush?

[Honair]

Originally Posted by rbryan4

Sitting here tonight with the full moon peeking through the clouds, frogs croaking, really lovely evening - interrupted by the fridge beeping while running on propane.

Wow, what are the chances I'm having the same problem as the thread I read earlier this afternoon?

Did some troubleshooting, fridge stays lit on propane, then a few minutes later, alarms. Cycle repeats. Ugh, I thought. Another dang fridge issue to solve.

Umm, no. I was out of propane.

Where's the emoticon for a dummy? Lol

or or

Seemingly they apply to me all the time!!!

[rbryan4]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Robert,
Wasn't your prior problem with condensation on the light switch causing the beep?

Yes, but that's a different alarm. That one is a "door ajar" alarm. And yes, it was caused by condensation under the fridge light cover. It only seems to happen in very damp environments, like Oregon was when it happened the first time, or like South Padre Island was when it happened the second time. The "fix" was a little sealant around the light plug.

[Ron in BC]

Originally Posted by Mark James

Just for future reference where is the orifice located?

Originally Posted by Mark James

Also what did you use to clean it with a small wire brush?

Just before the burner assy. where the propane line ends.

No, don't use anything except solvent, if necessary. Look at youtube video's for more info.

Ron

[Mark James]

Thank you!

[Matth3w22]

Just got my new 21 foot trailer delivered last Tuesday and set off and my maiden voyage this weekend. I plugged in my fridge and AC the day in advance to get it cooled only to find that it will not operate an LP as in everything in my fridge has spoiled.

The blue flame is where the stack is extremely hard for no cooling in the fridge at all. Any thoughts? Just got my new 21 foot trailer delivered last Tuesday and set off on my maiden voyage this weekend.

I plugged in my fridge and AC the day in advance to get it cooled only to find that it will not operate an LP as in everything in my fridge has spoiled. The blue flame is where the stack is extremely hard for no cooling in the fridge at all. I tried turning it off for a few hours and restarting it and letting it go overnight and nothing. I would’ve thought this would’ve been tested at the factory.

Any thoughts? It’s never good to be six hours away from home without food-LOL

[Jim Bennett]

Hi Matthew, I see this is your first post, welcome.

Your post is a bit confusing. You state you plugged in your fridge to cool it (assuming you were doing so on 120V which is what most folks do at home), but then say it does not operate on propane. Did it work on 120V but not on propane?

So many questions running through my mind. As this was delivered, I assume you have had no tutorial on operating the fridge, did you get a chance to read the trailer manual and fridge operating manual? Was the fridge set on auto, or did you select the power source manually?

The blue flame is where the stack is extremely hard for no cooling in the fridge at all.

I am not following this either, was there a flame, and could you feel the heat of it? If so it certainly should be cooling. I assume too the propane is working fine on the stove and water heater?

Maybe if you could clarify things a bit it would be easier to assist you. Maybe I have not fully woken up either. 'D

[Matth3w22]

Yes I was referring to 120 V AC . It appeared to work fine at home and cool down before putting my food in hitting the road.

I noticed that thing started to warm up a bit after my 6 Hour Drive even though I had it on DC.

Since running an LP the fridge is only continue to get warmer and it is now actually warmer than it is outside.

Based on all the diagnosis I have done so far because everything appears to be working properly there are no blown fuses and there’s a nice blue flame and everything is hot, I’m assuming there is some kind of air bubble or something in the cooling system preventing it from flowing. However, it does not make much sense because it does appear that it was working on AC before leaving.

I read completely through the owners manual before operating the device and have since looked up diagnosis manuals online and they have been no help

[cpaharley2008]

Have you turned the gas on at the propane tanks and turn the stove on to bleed the lines? Can you plug into electric and try it on 120v? It is not recommend you travel with 12v operation as it may not get enough 12v from your vehicle while towing, propane is always best and always turn it to propane before leaving to be sure what happened to you does not happen again.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Matth3w22

Yes I was referring to 120 V AC . It appeared to work fine at home and cool down before putting my food in hitting the road.

I noticed that thing started to warm up a bit after my 6 Hour Drive even though I had it on DC.

Since running an LP the fridge is only continue to get warmer and it is now actually warmer than it is outside.

Based on all the diagnosis I have done so far because everything appears to be working properly there are no blown fuses and there’s a nice blue flame and everything is hot, I’m assuming there is some kind of air bubble or something in the cooling system preventing it from flowing. However, it does not make much sense because it does appear that it was working on AC before leaving.

I read completely through the owners manual before operating the device and have since looked up diagnosis manuals online and they have been no help

Thanks for this explanation, I am understanding better now.

I have tried a test once keeping my fridge (same as yours) on DC while travelling, trusting my solar would keep up. We have a fridge/freezer temperature monitor and was watching temps from the truck. After 4 hours the temperature had risen substantially, beyond what is deemed safe for a fridge temperature, so I switched it back to propane to travel and all was good. 12V really does not do a good job, and in my opinion should only be used as a last resort. This does not explain why yours did not cool down when back on propane though, just saying the 12V is not the best cooling option at all.

I agree with your analysis that it makes no sense that there is an "air bubble or something" because it worked fine on other heat sources. I don't have an answer as to why it is not cooling on propane, and even getting warmer as you describe. With the flame evident it certainly should be cooling to some degree. Is there any way to connect to 120V again? This would at least eliminate a few variables.

Maybe something has failed since you left home? Just a bad ass guess.

You could try to get hold of Escape, though being Saturday not sure if you will get response.

I hope someone here is smarter than me on this and can help you out.

[Iowa Dave]

I’m not familiar with the control panel on your refrigerator door or door frame but I thought I would ask, did you punch the cooling level button so that all of the bars are illuminated as that is the maximum cooling setting. Also that the icon that looks like a candle flame is illuminated. Just seems strange but I suppose it’s possible that the refrigerator was working at loadup time but something shook loose in transit. Assuming you have a remote readout on inside refrigerator temp? Sorry to hear you’re having a problem. At least it wasn’t a cooler full of potato salad that spoiled in the front seat of your truck. Right Jim Norman?
Iowa Dave

[CADreamin]

When we were en route to deliver our 19' to its new owner, we plugged in the refrigerator at home and then again at our first stop and all was fine; however, when the new owner arrived, we switched over to LP and ... nada. No matter how hard we tried it wouldn't switch over (worked fine on shore power and DC) so we called a repairman who determined that, while it had a flame, it wouldn't switch over (duh). Long story short, the new owner was familiar with refrigerators, took the trailer home and cleaned the orifice and checked the lines. Voila! Success (phew). My point is, even though it's new, something may have gummed up the orifice or line.

[Brian B-P]

Getting propane to the appliance is apparently not the problem, since it has a flame. Like the rest of Dometic's Americana line, this is a direct spark ignition appliance so there is no pilot flame - that means that it has no flame at all when cooling is not needed, and a fixed-level operating flame when the thermostat says cooling is needed. If you see a flame at all, it is turning on and successfully igniting the main flame.

Of course, the flame might not be sufficient, due to issues with the propane orifice or air supply to the burner. Many propane appliances have an adjustable air shutter for the burner, but I don't recall seeing one in my Americana refrigerator, and don't see one in the manual. There might still be some air obstruction which prevents an adequate flame, but then the flame would not likely be solid blue.

These refrigerators run on heat, from a propane flame or an electric heating element. The 12 V DC element usually produces less heat than the other sources (even with unlimited 12 V DC power available), so poor performance on 12 V DC is generally expected... but there should still be some cooling. This mode is intended to keep things cool while driving, when the door is not being opened so less cooling power should be sufficient.

Matthew, you started with AC power and that worked, so we know that the cooling unit (the pile of tubing and fluids that actually does the cooling) was functional... and so it would work on the other power sources if they produce enough heat. Have you tried it in AC again, so see if it still works? If it no longer works on AC, the cooling unit is suspect; it if does, than an insufficient propane flame is likely.

I noted this in the installation and operation manual under "Limp Mode"

1) The first limp mode of operation will execute if the display
module becomes non functional. The control system reverts
to full automatic operation selecting the best energy source
available with AC, DC (3-way only) and GAS priority. The
temperature setting is maintained at the mid position. The
power module will continually attempt to reestablish operation
of the display module.

If this failure occurs, you might find that the mid temperature position is too warm; however, if you have DC power this text suggests that the refrigerator would not have run on propane, so it's not likely the problem. Also, the display would presumably blank out if it failed, although it only shows a couple of lights even when operating normally.

The only explicit trouble indication from this refrigerator's display is the "Check" light - did that come on?