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Old 07-04-2014, 01:34 PM   #61
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We got our 10 minimum, you can still add your name….
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Old 07-04-2014, 02:00 PM   #62
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Jim or anyone else, do you know what the electrical draw is on this unit?

Doug
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Old 07-04-2014, 02:09 PM   #63
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Jim...If your keeping track, add my name to the special product edition. I am hoping to cut the weight of ice and my performance cooler from my short trips.
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Old 07-04-2014, 02:11 PM   #64
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Got it and I'll ask about the draw in my email Sunday night. It can not be too high as the wires to the light switch where the power is are not that big.
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Old 07-04-2014, 03:00 PM   #65
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From the Fridge Fan website:

How much power does the Fridge-Fix use?We designed the fridge fix for those who use their RV fulltime. If you dry camp, and have no access to electricity, you should only turn the fan on when you need it. It is impossible to comment on how fast it will draw your batteries down, due to all the different RV's on the market. We do know that the Fridge-Fix draws .5 amps (1/2 of an amp...).
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Old 07-04-2014, 03:04 PM   #66
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I like the Fridge-Fix design but it's a little expensive for me. I thought I would try to come up with something on my own so I found 2 high performance very quiet cooling fans with sealed bearings I had laying around and am going to mount these in my refrigerator and try them. I'll take pics when done and report on how it went.
Well, to save some money and also address the opportunity to move air across the cooling fins in the refrigerator and improve overall cooling performance I came up with a solution and it is now operational.

1. Installed two 1/4 zinc plated steel cross bars in front of the cooling fins
2. Removed the door light assembly and tapped into the 12vdc supply and added a small microswitch and a single supply line for the fans.
3. Installed the fans at a slight angle blowing directly into the cooling fins. They are now attached with rubber bands but will eventually be permanently mounted in place.
4. I ordered grill covers for the fans so I won't complete the installation until they are received next week.

I am very pleased with how this system turned out:
-120mm fans are large and blow air across all of the cooling fins
-Very high quality fans with hydraulic, sealed bearings for long life
-Very low current draw; .1 amps total (measured; both fans running)
-Very quiet...I can barely hear the fans running with the refrigerator open
-Fans moved a very large volume of air; 38cfm each, 76cfm total
-The system is mounted vertically in the back of the refrigerator in front of the cooling fins so that no food storage space is used by the system

This is where I tapped into the 12vdc supply and installed a microswitch to turn the fans on or off. Notice the access hole I added to activate the switch.



Here you can see the support rods for the fans. The fans will eventually be attached to the rods with heavy tie wraps.



This shows the layout of the two fans. They are about 3/4" away from the cooling fins.



When I receive the fan grills late next week I will finish the installation. When done I will cool the refrigerator down with and without the fans running. It will be interesting to see the results which I will share including finished installation pics.

...my total installed cost: Less than $10.00.

Steve
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Old 07-04-2014, 05:48 PM   #67
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You have the 6.7 in your 19? correct? which wire in the light switch did you tap into? the Brown wire? we will need to do the same. I like your fans….
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Old 07-04-2014, 06:09 PM   #68
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You have the 6.7 in your 19? correct? which wire in the light switch did you tap into? the Brown wire? we will need to do the same. I like your fans….
Jim, mine is a model RM8551 and is 4.3cuft. However, I'll bet the light assemblies are the same. The wiring on mine on the connector from top to bottom is purple, red, black, white. I tied into the white lead circuit inside the housing and soldered to the bottom of the circuit board on the appropriate power transistor terminal lead. This seemed like the easiest connection point to solder to...then ran through the microswitch and out the red lead to the back. Your unit has an on/off switch so you can just solder in a lead wire.

Steve
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #69
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I only saw 2 white and one brown wire, will need to look again and get back to you.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:05 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
Well, to save some money and also address the opportunity to move air across the cooling fins in the refrigerator and improve overall cooling performance I came up with a solution and it is now operational...
Very nice work!
I really like the use of the stock moulded shelf mounting points for both the support bars and the wire routing - clever.
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:21 PM   #71
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Corsair fans

Steve,
can you supply the part numbers for the fans & microswitch. Excellent design

Bob C
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:39 PM   #72
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Steve,
can you supply the part numbers for the fans & microswitch. Excellent design

Bob C
Hi Bob! The microswitch was kicking around in a box at home so no part number... Radio Shack or other supplier like that will have one. The fans can be purchased in pairs from newegg.com for $30.00. Here is a link.

Corsair Air Series SP120 (CO-9050012-WW) 120mm PWM Quiet Edition High Static Pressure Fan (Twin Pack) - Newegg.com

Steve
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Old 07-04-2014, 07:48 PM   #73
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I only saw 2 white and one brown wire, will need to look again and get back to you.
Jim, yours may be different than mine. Just ground your meter to the cooling fins with an alligator clip and measure the voltages on your light switch leads with the refrigerator off and on and also the interior light off and on (with the light switch attached to the plug but loose and opened for measurements). You will find the correct supply point that way by looking for the one point with the highest voltage under all conditions.
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Old 07-04-2014, 11:20 PM   #74
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Thanks Steve
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:12 AM   #75
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Bob C,
Here is a source of some micro switches Amazon.com: Install Bay Toggle Switch Mini with 20 Inch Leads On and Off 5 Bag- IBMTS: Car Electronics
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Old 07-05-2014, 05:14 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by hotfishtacos View Post
Jim, yours may be different than mine. Just ground your meter to the cooling fins with an alligator clip and measure the voltages on your light switch leads with the refrigerator off and on and also the interior light off and on (with the light switch attached to the plug but loose and opened for measurements). You will find the correct supply point that way by looking for the one point with the highest voltage under all conditions.
Thanks Steve for pointing me in the right direction. Modifications are one thing but dealing with expensive electronics is something else.
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Old 07-05-2014, 08:08 AM   #77
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As of this am we now have 12 members on the list, I'll post the screen names tomorrow and wait awhile for any corrections before sending email to the company sunday night.
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Old 07-05-2014, 08:57 AM   #78
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For those without a power source in their refrigerator, it's pretty easy to get some. I removed the thermistor hole cover inside and push a piece of stiff Weedeater line along the thermistor line and to the outside/back of the refrigerator. With that, a single wire can be pulled to the 12vt power terminal. Affix your ground to the exchange fin.

I normal would not spend so much on a product consisting of two simple fans, a switch, led lights, and the enclosure. But this time I go with something that doesn't look so home made. If you have noticed, the holes in the enclosure circulates air along the full length of the exchange fin.

Fridge Fix comes with a money back guarantee if not satisfied with the results. I live and camp in a good test lab.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:22 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink View Post
For those without a power source in their refrigerator, it's pretty easy to get some. I removed the thermistor hole cover inside and push a piece of stiff Weedeater line along the thermistor line and to the outside/back of the refrigerator. With that, a single wire can be pulled to the 12vt power terminal. Affix your ground to the exchange fin.

I normal would not spend so much on a product consisting of two simple fans, a switch, led lights, and the enclosure. But this time I go with something that doesn't look so home made. If you have noticed, the holes in the enclosure circulates air along the full length of the exchange fin.

Fridge Fix comes with a money back guarantee if not satisfied with the results. I live and camp in a good test lab.
David, with your location you truely have the best test case . Please share your test results when you get it installed!

Steve
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Old 07-06-2014, 03:53 PM   #80
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We're still trying to decide between the 6.7 and the 4.3. Does the 4.3 typically perform better? We might be willing to sacrifice refrigerator space, or should we just count on doing the modifications?
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