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Old 07-07-2014, 09:32 AM   #101
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On and off has nothing to do with Texas or ambient temperature. The fan is controlled by the temperature of the refrigerator coolant system. It is possible under a light load for the refrigerator to be cooling without the "Texas fan" running.
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Old 07-07-2014, 02:10 PM   #102
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That's a relief , its a long drive to Texas for us . Besides it can still
Get pretty hot here so we are getting the Texas fan option on our 21
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Old 07-09-2014, 11:45 AM   #103
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I've just emailed the Fridge Fix folks to add my name to the list. We just got back from a trip with a newly installed "Texas Fan" kit retrofitted by a local company according to Reace's instructions. While stationary, the fridge did reasonably well. With temps in the mid 80s, it seldom got above 40 in the fridge, running on LP or 120V. As soon as we departed and towed during a day in the upper 80s, the fridge temp climbed right up to 47 degrees for several hours. Out goes another jar of mayo and some other things. The newly installed fan was running (as was the portable fan inside the fridge), and LP pressure was 11 1/4 inches at the time. I'm not at all convinced that the Fridge Fix fan is the solution, but it's worth trying, I guess.

I am increasingly disappointed that all of us are out here wandering around on our own looking for solutions to this common problem. I guess it's just accepted that RV fridges are poor performers in anything other than cool ambient temperatures. Loyal Escape supporters may be offended by this comment, but for a $30,000 investment, I expected something a little better in the way of factory support and leadership toward resolving this issue. If, as I have heard, ETI is working with Dometic on some of these issues, what has been learned? Are the installations, like ours, with large clearances between the cooling coils and rear wall acceptable? Is it simply an issue with these Dometic fridges? If so, with so many of us having trouble, can we collectively appeal to Dometic? Don't get me wrong, we would definitely buy another Escape, but that does not lessen the disappointment with the current situation.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:16 PM   #104
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Wish I had checked the temps in the fridge of my old trailer, seemed like it worked fine for 8 years but I really never checked. Could be that we just have too much info now.
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Old 07-09-2014, 12:45 PM   #105
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May I suggest getting your refrigerator temperature as low as 27-30 degrees overnight and in the morning. And set it on a high number during the day. It is hard to recover in daily warm temperatures once you've let it get away from you.
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:04 PM   #106
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May I suggest getting your refrigerator temperature as low as 27-30 degrees overnight and in the morning. And set it on a high number during the day. It is hard to recover in daily warm temperatures once you've let it get away from you.
We do that as a matter of routine. We get it as cold as possible overnight, which helps carry it through the next day. We almost always have it on the highest possible setting unless it's pretty cool outside for an extended period. And you're right....after the temp rises, it takes a long time, like overnight almost, to get it back again.
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Old 07-09-2014, 01:30 PM   #107
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Out goes another jar of mayo and some other things. The newly installed fan was running (as was the portable fan inside the fridge), and LP pressure was 11 1/4 inches at the time. I'm not at all convinced that the Fridge Fix fan is the solution, but it's worth trying, I guess.

I am increasingly disappointed that all of us are out here wandering around on our own looking for solutions to this common problem. I guess it's just accepted that RV fridges are poor performers in anything other than cool ambient temperatures. Loyal Escape supporters may be offended by this comment, but for a $30,000 investment, I expected something a little better in



These Dometic refers are the same installed in $80k Airstreams, so it is not the $$ but the nature of the beast. I'm happy my beer is cold, it tastes a lot better than mayonnaise!!
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:09 PM   #108
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Has anyone installed this? Seems like a great idea. I have solar powered roof vents on my house and they work great.

http://www.adventurerv.net/camco-sol...source=Froogle

http://tweetys.com/camcosolarrvrefri...GA4aAmtx8P8HAQ
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Old 07-09-2014, 02:32 PM   #109
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They seem to get very mixed reviews on Amazon. One thing that intrigues me about the basic design is that the cover comes all the way down to the roof on the forward side. I've often wondered if turbulence around the standard Dometic vent cap is detracting from the venting process while underway. I'm tempted to try a little white duct tape to seal off the front end of the cap on one of our upcoming trips just in case air is blowing in there while driving.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:10 PM   #110
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They seem to get very mixed reviews on Amazon. One thing that intrigues me about the basic design is that the cover comes all the way down to the roof on the forward side. I've often wondered if turbulence around the standard Dometic vent cap is detracting from the venting process while underway. I'm tempted to try a little white duct tape to seal off the front end of the cap on one of our upcoming trips just in case air is blowing in there while driving.
I've ordered one to take with when I go up to ETI next week - I'll see if it fits on the 21. That same tapered front acting as a deflector entered my mind, too.
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:37 PM   #111
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I've ordered one to take with when I go up to ETI next week - I'll see if it fits on the 21. That same tapered front acting as a deflector entered my mind, too.
Don't get rid of the original vent cover because several reviews on that product indicate that it starts to disintegrate after a couple of years; broken solar cells (self destruct), cracked plastic housings (maybe very thin cross sections or poor quality, non-filled resin).
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Old 07-09-2014, 04:48 PM   #112
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So, are you guys thinking that the roy vent is somehow causing the refer to blow out or it keeps the refer from properly exhausting the heat?
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:14 PM   #113
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So, are you guys thinking that the roy vent is somehow causing the refer to blow out or it keeps the refer from properly exhausting the heat?
My thought was turbulence due to the non-tapered OEM shape while on the road could cause an issue with running the fridge on LP - just a theory.
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:18 PM   #114
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Don't get rid of the original vent cover because several reviews on that product indicate that it starts to disintegrate after a couple of years; broken solar cells (self destruct), cracked plastic housings (maybe very thin cross sections or poor quality, non-filled resin).
Every piece of plastic on my roof gets covered with a few coats of Krylon Fusion paint because of the UV protectant. Has worked for me to protect plastic from embrittlement for a lotta years. Worst case is I just make a new one.
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:23 PM   #115
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I've got the smaller 4.3cuft with the stock roof vent and refrigerator has always performed well on the road with the LP always on while traveling. I did however put a baffle in the back to eliminate all the dead space behind the refrigerator and a mesh filter on the inside of the lower vent cover to keep the flame from ever blowing out while underway.
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:27 PM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post

....
These Dometic refers are the same installed in $80k Airstreams, so it is not the $$ but the nature of the beast. I'm happy my beer is cold, it tastes a lot better than mayonnaise!!
AND the same in MILLION DOLLAR + mohos. Just check out RV.net and IRV2.com

EVERYONE complains, it's not about the manufacturer of the trailer, truly. But, everyone expects perfection running on propane or solar. You don't like it? Stay home, purchase a "compressor" frig... like is in your home! And, y'all wonder why folks stay in "RV Resorts" where they're HOOKED UP to power.

I travel with a cooler with ice. But, I also know how to pack the frig. Few folks do... pay attention when you buy your food. So much doesn't need to be refrigerated... just kept "cool." If it's NOT under refrigeration when you buy it... it doesn't need to be kept COLD... just "cool."
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:31 PM   #117
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What's really helpful is I prefer my beer as in Europe - unchilled!
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Old 07-09-2014, 05:38 PM   #118
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I've got the smaller 4.3cuft with the stock roof vent and refrigerator has always performed well on the road with the LP always on while traveling. I did however put a baffle in the back to eliminate all the dead space behind the refrigerator and a mesh filter on the inside of the lower vent cover to keep the flame from ever blowing out while underway.
Any chance of some pictures of the baffle and mesh? I have the same frig and have similar experience to yours. Really worked better without the freezer.
Is your fan mod up and running? .
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:03 PM   #119
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Any chance of some pictures of the baffle and mesh? I have the same frig and have similar experience to yours. Really worked better without the freezer.
Is your fan mod up and running? .
Thanks
Dave
Hi Dave! The baffle is really hard to photograph but there has been a lot of discussion on the topic on this forum and I think Dometic has a drawing of a suggested baffle form.. Others on this forum may want to chime in if they have a sketch of the baffle I'm speaking of. I got the idea for the mesh filter cover on my vent from "cpaharley" (Jim) and it works fine. I think there is also a picture of one here in the gallery somewhere. I'll look.

My fans are operational but I expect to receive the fan grills in the mail tomorrow and then I will finish everything up and take a few pics for the forum.

Steve
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Old 07-09-2014, 06:12 PM   #120
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Took my trailer to a service center to have fridge checked out. LP pressure was at 9.5" WC, they changed it to 11" WC. Now getting temperatures under 40 degrees F in the fridge, on propane.
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