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Old 02-18-2018, 09:08 AM   #1
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dometic ac

Finally got around to looking at my AC unit on the 2014 escape 21, dometic 11,000 BTU. Unit will start and run but isn't cooling. I first checked connections inside and out they were good. I did find a bad start capacitor the end was blown out and showed high resistance. Replaced it but unit still not cooling. When compressor is running the cooling lines feel like they aren't even trying to cool.

Any suggestions before buying a new unit.
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:09 PM   #2
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If the compressor is running but the lines aren't cooling, it means the coolant's not circulating for some reason. Could be lack of coolant, could be broken compressor, or (less likely) something wrong with the expansion valve. I think in theory the RV A/Cs aren't serviceable, but in practice you can probably find an old-school residential A/C person who can fix it.
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:33 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Defenestrator View Post
If the compressor is running but the lines aren't cooling, it means the coolant's not circulating for some reason. Could be lack of coolant, could be broken compressor, or (less likely) something wrong with the expansion valve. I think in theory the RV A/Cs aren't serviceable, but in practice you can probably find an old-school residential A/C person who can fix it.
I have been told, but do not know if it is true, that the coolant tubing Dometic uses is so thin that if one attempts to cut it and splice in/install a charging port, the tubing will crush. The implication of that is that a non-functional Dometic A/C would be a throw away item. But again, I cannot confirm if that is true. Perhaps someone else here has better knowledge of the Dometic A/C.
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Old 02-18-2018, 10:41 PM   #4
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It wouldn't surprise me if that were at least mostly true. It's designed for weight, low cost, and efficiency over durability, so thin lines would make sense. It's always possible to cut and splice, but it might well be more difficult to the point that it's not worth it. You'll likely get different answers from different repair techs. RV-specific techs are more likely to just replace the whole thing, whereas an experienced commercial HVAC person who's used to custom/old/weird systems might be more likely to be able to fix it.
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Old 02-19-2018, 04:48 AM   #5
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It wouldn't surprise me if that were at least mostly true. It's designed for weight, low cost, and efficiency over durability, so thin lines would make sense. It's always possible to cut and splice, but it might well be more difficult to the point that it's not worth it. You'll likely get different answers from different repair techs. RV-specific techs are more likely to just replace the whole thing, whereas an experienced commercial HVAC person who's used to custom/old/weird systems might be more likely to be able to fix it.
And yet I would believe that the addition of a bit more weight wouldn’t be viewed negatively by any of us here if it meant the unit was serviceable rather than discardable. It would surely be a lot easier and quicker to recharge the coolant rather than remove and replace the entire assembly. Just my 2 cents.....
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Old 02-19-2018, 11:51 AM   #6
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Maybe it is only designed and built to last as long as a stick trailer.
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:22 PM   #7
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AC fixed

AC repair guy I work with came and looked at the AC. It was what I thought, low on coolant. When we looked at the soldering that had been done on the lines it was some of the worst I've ever seen. Thats where the leak was. The solder/brazing was so bad I took pictures and am thinking about sending them to dometic so they can see what this unit left the factory with.

Anyway he repaired the leaks installed a saddle valve, (supco A1 with schrader valve) charged the system. I now have 45 degree air coming out with 69 degree at the intake I'm happy.

Cost was $40 for 410 coolant, and a case of Becks beer. I helped him drink that with a few jalapeno stuffed olives.
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Old 05-04-2018, 06:26 PM   #8
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Man, that's a heck of a deal ! Excellent.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:08 PM   #9
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The solder/brazing was so bad I took pictures and am thinking about sending them to dometic so they can see what this unit left the factory with.
Please do. Unfortunately the only way some companies realize anything is wrong with their products is via enough complaints.
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Old 05-05-2018, 07:51 AM   #10
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R410a

Just so people know R410a does not require an EPA certification to purchase it. Some companies may require it the EPA does't. If you look online you can buy a 25LB can for $120 to $150. Thats $4.80 to $6.00 a pound.
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