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Old 08-30-2017, 05:39 PM   #1
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Dometic RM8551

Just bought a 2016 17B and can not get the refrigerator to start on propane. Previous owner said he never had any problems with it starting. Troubleshooting guide says there may be air in the line and try to start it a number of times, which I did.
The refrigerator will act like it's starting for 3 or 4 minutes and then the caution light will come on. And I restarted it and in three or four or five minutes later it'll do it again. Have gone through that procedure numerous times and still the caution light will on come on.
Has anybody else had this sort of problem and have a suggestion on what I need to do. Maybe I just need to physically bleed the line. Or maybe it's electronic issue.
Thanks, Ted
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:02 PM   #2
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I haven't had that problem but if I did, these are two things that I'd try;

1. Turn on the gas stove or hot water tank and see if they operate properly. That also helps more quickly bleed out any possible air.

2. Remove the small sheet metal guard on the fridge burner, one screw, and observe the flame or lack there of.

Ron
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Old 08-30-2017, 06:34 PM   #3
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Yeah Ron the gas stove works and did not observe a flame on the refrigerator but did not take the guard off.
Thanks
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:00 PM   #4
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Mine worked fine on gas the first leg of our last trip. Ten days on elec and the gas would not work on the next leg or on the way home. The igniter clicks for a while, the flame comes on for about 20 seconds, goes out and the trouble light comes on. Fortunately 12 v works fine.
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Old 08-30-2017, 08:34 PM   #5
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I had a similar problem, I used compressed air to clean out the tube where the gas and air mix and this helped. On a later occasion I found that the orifice where the gas comes out was clogged, cleaned it with a length of emery cord and all was fine. I think a pipe cleaner would have also worked.
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:26 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Fishingtx1 View Post
Yeah Ron the gas stove works and did not observe a flame on the refrigerator but did not take the guard off.
Thanks
The next thing that I'd do, and I just did, after my fridge that was working flawlessly for the last year and a half is check the orifice just before the burner.

Sorry the photo is out of focus but if you look just above the tiny orifice you can see a particle of carbon. That's all it takes to make a fridge not work.

Lot's of videos on youtube about servicing the jet or orifice.

Ron
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Old 08-30-2017, 09:33 PM   #7
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Like others have said, after taking the trailer out of storage, I normally test all the other propane appliances before the fridge to get any air out of the lines.

I have had this happen lately when testing the fridge after taking it out of storage. It will light and run for awhile, but goes out and will not relight, eventually causing the propane fault. Sometimes it will restart, and then the alarm is on when I check an hour later.

If the problem persists, then I will remove the burner and orifice assembly and soak in rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to lose or damage the orifice - a small round metal disk with a pin hole for the gas to flow through.
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KirkB View Post
Like others have said, after taking the trailer out of storage, I normally test all the other propane appliances before the fridge to get any air out of the lines.

I have had this happen lately when testing the fridge after taking it out of storage. It will light and run for awhile, but goes out and will not relight, eventually causing the propane fault. Sometimes it will restart, and then the alarm is on when I check an hour later.

If the problem persists, then I will remove the burner and orifice assembly and soak in rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to lose or damage the orifice - a small round metal disk with a pin hole for the gas to flow through.
The other day I tried to remove the burner but gave up when I had to apply so much pressure that it started to round the nut on the gas line. And yes I used the proper kind of wrench, I think they are called a flare nut line wrench. Is there trick to removing the burner?
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Old 08-31-2017, 11:59 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by sunrisetrucker View Post
The other day I tried to remove the burner but gave up when I had to apply so much pressure that it started to round the nut on the gas line. And yes I used the proper kind of wrench, I think they are called a flare nut line wrench. Is there trick to removing the burner?
I think that it's important to get that nut loosened and operable because if a flake of carbon blocks the orifice you need to be able to clean it out.

I noticed that the nut seems to be an oddball size. It's a really sloppy 7/16" and a less sloppy 11 mm but it's larger than 3/8" So, if the nuts really tight, I can see how the wrench would be more likely to round off the nut.

I'd use WD-40 but not hold out much hope. Then I'd make sure the propane valve was shut and heat the nut. There's nothing like a blast of heat to loosen an stubborn nut.

Ron
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Old 08-31-2017, 05:47 PM   #10
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Just a word of caution WD40 is flammable and could cause a fire if exposed to flame. I have an opportunity to make that mistake before ....

I echo the need to bleed the lines by turning on the heater. Once you feel heat at the heater you know you have gas on that side of the trailer (my 5.0ta has the heater close to the fridge).

Also depending on how much use the fridge gets the soot can build-up in the flue. It needs to be blown out with compressed air from time to time. Also like stated before be very careful with the gas orifice .... objects can ruin it easily.

Let us know how it goes ... Bill
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