Door Catch Repair

[marant]

Working around the Errant Escape the other day I managed to snap the plastic catch which holds the door open. I decided I did not want to remove and replace, since that would require drilling out the 4 large rivets which attach it to the trailer, with all the subsequent re-riveting/screwing and water proofing. (Do not know who attached it originally, but they did a first rate job.)

With a little hunting around the shop I discovered 1/4" hard copper tubing would work as a sleeve. I used Liquid Nails to glue the sleeve to the plastic pieces, and then crimped the tube with a pair of pliers. Have not yet taken the trailer out, but think it will work and not come loose. The only problem is that the one piece is a little short to give good purchase. I may drill it and insert a pin.

If I am bothered by the exposed copper I can just paint it, but I doubt I will.

[davidmurphy02]

That is an ingenious repair!

[cpaharley2008]

Being 9 years old, outside plastic becomes brittle. I have a feeling it will continue to break. You can replace it with a new unit, but replace it with stainless, definitely last longer. Rivets or screws or glue attachment....this comes in various lengths...https://www.amazon.com/T-Style-Holde...gateway&sr=8-7

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Being 9 years old, outside plastic becomes brittle. I have a feeling it will continue to break. You can replace it with a new unit, but replace it with stainless, definitely last longer. Rivets or screws or glue attachment....this comes in various lengths...https://www.amazon.com/T-Style-Holde...gateway&sr=8-7

What I did when ours broke . Stainless along with the hinges in stainless . Very easy to do drill the head off the rivet and it goes wherever . Rivet gun at harbor freight . Pat

[jamman]

I used 3M VHB tape to install this magnetic catch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed it much higher than the original catch - somewhere near the middle of the door. I left the remnants of the original catch on the trailer to avoid needing to patch the holes.

[MyronL]

Nice move, Marant. We had our door latch get busted recently, too, but it was the right side of the plastic catch on the door that broke off. A too aggressive yank. I didn't want to drill out those sturdy rivets either. So far, this glue-back is holding pretty good, but who knows for how long.

When the inevitable happens I will go stainless, like Pat, Jim and Jam.

[Donna D.]

Must be the year for breaking the holdback. I put a 6" SS in my Amazon cart a month ago. I own a Scamp, I know how to use a rivet gun Got some butyl in a plastic bag too.

[Patandlinda]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Must be the year for breaking the holdback. I put a 6" SS in my Amazon cart a month ago. I own a Scamp, I know how to use a rivet gun Got some butyl in a plastic bag too.

Donna Pat

[tdf-texas]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Must be the year for breaking the holdback. I put a 6" SS in my Amazon cart a month ago. I own a Scamp, I know how to use a rivet gun Got some butyl in a plastic bag too.

I owned a Casita! When you have a Casita, you get good at replacing rivets! I think I still have a bag of 30 or so rivets stashed somewhere.

[George Johnson]

If you go the route cpaharley went, look carefully at the description of the item. The link in cpaharley's reply shows an item described as "zinc plated steel" in one location, and "stainless steel" in another. Scroll down a bit and you will find in the "Customers Also Purchased" section true stainless steel hardware, but at nearly double the price. Still inexpensive, but better if you will be travelling near salt water or on salted roads.

[dave1]

what size and length pop rivet did you use in the install of the ss door catch?

Thanks

Dave

[marant]

Update: The short piece was not long enough to give good glue purchase. Drilled small hole and inserted wire as a pin. Just delaying the inevitable, I am sure.