Door insulating revisited

[Bruce Wray]

I tried and failed to find the previous thread on members' ideas about getting insulation retrofitted into older hollow doors (like mine). So, I had a thought while camping a few days ago...

Has anyone ever removed the door window? The securing screws are on the inside. My thought is that with at least the interior portion of the window removed, Reflectix could be installed. I'd cut a double layer to size, then glue it together. To install, I'd cut the double layer vertically on center, slide the latch side in first, then the hinge side. A couple of small tabs of Reflectix could be glued to the halves just above and below the window to keep them still.

I don't know if I'd do this if the whole window had to come out to access the void -- the exterior caulking bead on my window was very well done, and I wouldn't want to have to deal with its removal/replacement. But, if removing the interior gives the needed access, I'm putting a roll of Reflectix on my Depot shopping list.

Bruce

[daveandsandyclink]

I am planning to do the same and just haven't got around to it yet. Please lead the way and report back to us.

[Bruce Wray]

Dave -- I've emailed Escape to see how the door window is designed. Hopefully I'll get the news I want. I'll let you know.

Bruce

[cpaharley2008]

These windows are normally known as compression type, i.e. the screws inside pull the exterior window part and it will compress the butyl tape to form a watertight seal. I have removed several and it is helpful to have someone outside when you remove the screws to inside the outside does not fall. Once removed you may see wood around the perimeter to keep the window from compressing the fiberglass too much. If so then you access to the interior door area may be blocked.

[Jim Bennett]

Go for it Bruce, and keep good track (with photos) of your method. It is your turn to do the first one, I did the cut a big hole in the side of the trailer thing first.

[daveandsandyclink]

Hi Jim,
I am curios why you cut a big hole in your Escape. Now that the "new" has worn off our 5.0, I am about ready to cut in a bathroom window.

[cpaharley2008]

I believe he made his exterior access hatch bigger, this could be done in earlier 19' models but not in later models due to the larger awning which needs to have a leg support in that area now.

[Donna D.]

If y'all are willing to wait until after the Oregon Gathering in July, I can tell you precisely how the window is mounted in the door. I'll be pulling the complete window out of my new 5er to put in one with a custom stained glass panel.

[Bruce Wray]

I haven't heard back from ETI yet, but if the whole window has to come out, then I'll definitely wait until you do yours, Donna. I've never wanted to be first in line for an exploratory surgery.

Bruce

[reace]

Don't do it Bruce! Haha...feels like high school!

The window would have to come out for you to do a decent job...and even then you still have to contend with the door latch being in the way.

There was another good idea on the forum about pouring in bean bag balls. This would be doable.

Remove the door by taking the hinges off the trailer...not the hinges off the door. Then remove the inner window garnish and you will be able to spread the door panels enough to pour in the balls. Rotate the door around a bit to spread them around. I liked the idea so much I got a bag to try out on one...just haven't got around to it yet. Now that the new 5.0 molds are here, it may be a bit yet before I get to it.

I bought a bag from Uline distributors...fairly inexpensive.

Hope that helps

Reace

[gbaglo]

Somebody needs to explain to me how bubble wrap ( Reflectix? ), or balls containing air, is that much better than a larger space, containing air, at insulating.
I failed biology, but got an A in typing.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

Somebody needs to explain to me how bubble wrap ( Reflectix? ), or balls containing air, is that much better than a larger space, containing air, at insulating.

Reflectix depends on reflection to reduce radiant heat transfer. The bubbles reduce convection by the usual method of interrupting the air space... but not nearly as well as other types of insulation with smaller cells. Since most of the heat transfer in most situations is conduction and convection, it doesn't help a lot, but it does help. So would a layer of foil on one inside face of the door, with the cavity left empty - by the same method.

Bubble wrap wouldn't work as well as Reflectix, unless you painted it with silver paint or laminated aluminum foil to the bubble wrap.

[robinLL]

I can't wait to see photos Donna D!

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by daveandsandyclink

Hi Jim,
I am curios why you cut a big hole in your Escape. Now that the "new" has worn off our 5.0, I am about ready to cut in a bathroom window.

Like Jim said, I installed a storage access hatch about twice the area of the stock one. This is when the awning was mounted further back, and ther was room to do that. Our door hits the awning arm if left attached to the trailer, but with the awning moved forward, the larger access is no longer an option.

Originally Posted by reace

Now that the new 5.0 molds are here, it may be a bit yet before I get to it.

Any photos of the mould building process since the last ones posted?

Looking forward to your results with the door insulation too.

[stewlang]

As a would-be owner of a 19 due for hatching on Nov. 6 am I right in assuming that the doors on the newer models are insulated?

Originally Posted by Bruce Wray

I tried and failed to find the previous thread on members' ideas about getting insulation retrofitted into older hollow doors (like mine). So, I had a thought while camping a few days ago...

Has anyone ever removed the door window? The securing screws are on the inside. My thought is that with at least the interior portion of the window removed, Reflectix could be installed. I'd cut a double layer to size, then glue it together. To install, I'd cut the double layer vertically on center, slide the latch side in first, then the hinge side. A couple of small tabs of Reflectix could be glued to the halves just above and below the window to keep them still.

I don't know if I'd do this if the whole window had to come out to access the void -- the exterior caulking bead on my window was very well done, and I wouldn't want to have to deal with its removal/replacement. But, if removing the interior gives the needed access, I'm putting a roll of Reflectix on my Depot shopping list.

Bruce

[cpaharley2008]

Yes, the newer doors are now insulated, not sure if standard or part of the extra insulation package. ETI may help with that, but if you are betting the themal windows et al, then yes, the door is insulated.

[Bruce Wray]

I recall reading on this forum that doors are now insulated during construction.

Reace's post leaves me with a question --Is the door latch mechanism a closed unit that wouldn't be fouled by loose styro-beads inside the door? Perhaps those of you who have had to replace defective latch mechanisms can weigh in, but I'm assuming from Reace's endorsement of bead fill that the mechanism is a closed unit.

If that is the case, then I think the easiest way to get beads inside would be to remove the door and then the latch, stand the door on edge, latch side up, and fill the void. That way there is no messing with the window at all.

Bruce

[stewlang]

Thanks - we are getting the extra insulation package. That's one thing we don't have to worry about while putting the final touches on our build list.

[rubicon327]

At some point ETI started insulating the door (2014?), but many early classic builds have the hollow uninsulated door. Decided to change that today on our trailer using the bean bag balls (polystyrene foam) that Reace mentioned in an earlier post. When I followed up with Tammy she said this method was successful on her parents trailer. I decided to remove the door latch mechanism rather than spread the window opening after removing the interior ring. We used clear tape so we could see into the door latch area and around the window to make sure the door was filling. We removed the door from the trailer (not hinges from the door) and used a cardboard paper towel roll as a funnel and moved the door back and forth quite a bit. There is probably an inch or two at the top unfilled, but still happy with the results. Tammy had also suggested a hole made at the top of the door under the weather strip could be used with a funnel to fill the door. The problem is the beads will fall in and collect on the wood framing for the window unless you continuously rock the door back and forth. In reality, a combination of our methods is probably best if one feels the desire to get the door 100% full. Looking forward to the inside door surface staying warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Another added benefit is the door has just slightly more weight and shuts much quieter than the hollow door.

Here are the polystyrene beads that were used (with a lot left over):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Mike Lewis]

The door on my 2014 Escape 21 must be insulated. During recent cold weather I checked and it didn't feel cold to the touch when it was snowing outside. Good.