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Old 01-04-2014, 07:20 PM   #1
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Door Window

I know it's Saturday or I could contact ETI. But, has anyone ever ordered their trailer with a single pane, clear glass, non-opening door window? I make stained glass windows, etc. and have a plan for the door window of my 5er. I've been working on the design most of the day today. But, it will require a single pane, clear glass window. I'm ordering my 5er with dual pane windows, but would forgo this one window dual pane if I can get it.

Anyone?
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:38 PM   #2
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Seems to me we were asked about venting or none venting ,as the venting door window could get damaged if the door were to fly open and hit the awning supports ( that's on the 15 ) .
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:43 PM   #3
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I'm just asking about clear, single pane, non-opening, door window. I've looked at all the brochures on the ETI site, all the pictures posted on Visual Escape and even let the ETI web site cycle through all those pics. Can't see anything like I'm asking. That's why I brought it to the forum...
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
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There was a choice of clear or obscure , if double glazing is still an option rather the standard .......maybe they have that ..... That would be pretty !
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:50 PM   #5
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Donna,
The door window and the opening bath window are the same size and I thought hard about having Escape install the opening window in the door vs adding another hole in the bath. But Reace is now insulating the door if you get the insulation package and installing a dual pane window in the door, thus eliminating a major weakness in the insulation feature. I highly recommend you not change that set up. In my other 19' the door really got cold because it was not insulated and I asked Reace to start insulating the door as part of the insulation package and he agreed, Since the bath is single pane, why not work on it?
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
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There was a choice of clear or obscure , if double glazing is still an option rather the standard .......maybe they have that ..... That would be pretty !
Cool! Thanks that's what I was asking. I was afraid all the door windows came frosted, whether single or dual pane. I'll check with ETI on Monday. Although it wouldn't be the first time I re-worked an all molded door window to suit my needs. You'd be surprised what can be accomplished with the heel of a boot and a hack saw

Jim, I'm not interested in a stained glass window in the bathroom. Remember, on the 5er the bathroom is on the drivers side. A stained glass window added to a single pane window can, in effect, make a dual pane window without the gas.

It's a really small area when you look at the rest of the trailer.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:52 PM   #7
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Just wondering how a stain-glass window would hold up in travel.
Used to have a stain-glass door in the house ( flimsy frame ). It fell apart quite readily from opening and closing the door.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:54 PM   #8
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Just wondering how a stain-glass window would hold up in travel.
Used to have a stain-glass door in the house ( flimsy frame ). It fell apart quite readily from opening and closing the door.
I have a feeling these are not true hand made soldered windows, but appliqués over standard glass.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:57 PM   #9
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I don't remember paying attention to the door window but I would try for double (insulated) clear glass and add your stained glass. That way you get the brightness of the clear glass to make the stained glass look good and the insulation of the double.

And use the high strength VHB tape discussed elsewhere on this forum to attach your stained glass to the window.
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Old 01-04-2014, 08:58 PM   #10
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If stained glass is done properly... not that crap from Mexico, they'll last for years against all kinds of conditions. Properly soldered windows are as strong as full sheets of glass.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:09 PM   #11
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Compared to Scamp and Casita windows, the door window in all the Escape models is really small. I'm not concerned about the insulation factor at all. I also have plans for adding a curtain for the window.

Thanks group, you've all been very helpful... truly!

One of my bud's Ann... makes stained glass windows for RVs. Check out her web site: https://sites.google.com/site/littlehousestainedglass/
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:13 PM   #12
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My stain-glass door was made by the previous owner of the house. Judging by the other renos they did, it probably wasn't properly built.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:30 PM   #13
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And, to satisfy my curiosity, what is the reason that single pane would work, but double pane would not?
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:33 PM   #14
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I wanted to do the same as an afterthought, so I called Escape, got the order number for the window, then contacted Hehr (the manufacturer) and explained what I wanted to do - exactly what Donna wants to do; add a soldered up stained glass pane to the window in place of the 2nd pane. While I thought we had an understanding, they sent me an exact version of the Escape double pane window with clear glass in each. Since it is sealed, it doesn't look like an easy fix.

When I get back to NY I'm going to see if it is possible to make it work, but if you are going to order from Hehr, be careful!
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:36 PM   #15
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Doesn't make any difference, according to that link, Littlehouse Customs provide the glass, it is single pane and you install in your door. I replaced my window in my Eggcamper with an opening window, remove the screws and reinstall, very simple.
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Old 01-04-2014, 09:38 PM   #16
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Thanks Jon, I appreciate the cautionary tale! Glenn, the idea is to not use velcro or high bond tape but to put the stained glass in the dual pane channel. I've looked at D&K door window and the gasket is right up and tight to the glass, as it should be. However, if a single pane window has the same channel... I'll be golden without a bunch of fugly stuff to hold the stained glass window in place. I want the single pane glass to be outside and what I create to be inside. For protection from the elements....

Stand by....
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:18 PM   #17
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Aha. So a double pane frame with a single pane. Sounds like a pain.
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:25 PM   #18
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I requested clear glass in my 2009 17B door, however, I am not sure whether that window is single or double. The rest of them are. I wanted to be able to see who was on the other side if someone knocked on my door. I also planned a blind, (which hasn't happened yet) and they put a block of wood inside the door for mounting purposes.
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Old 01-05-2014, 09:23 AM   #19
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Door Window

Donna, years ago we bought a stained glass panel made to fit standard door windows in an RV. I removed the inside frame, used tape or something and attached the stained glass to the original clear glass and then ground the inside frame down to make room for the additional thickness of the glass panels as the frames had to squeeze the glass and the door at the same time. We can't remember if the RV was our Casita or a small M/H but it did not break, crack or have any other problems and we enjoyed the look. The stained glass came from a fellow who made them and we bought it at an RV show at the CA state fair grounds. Maybe we should take another look at the 21 window.
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:47 AM   #20
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Donna,

Cool plans on the stained glass! I love personalization at this level.

The wife and I used to do stained glass. Neither of us has picked up a soldering iron in several years, though. With the work we've done, I've always found the outside zinc channel to be essential in providing strength to the piece. After you've soldered, the glue holding the foil to the glass has mostly burnt off, and the solder itself is too soft/flexible to provide much strength.

I would have guessed that the zinc channel would be too thick to fit in a standard window frame channel.

Do you plan on using an outer zinc channel? If so, do you think it will fit ok? If not, what do you do to strengthen your piece? Or am I underestimating the strength of the foil/solder?

Here's a few pictures for the picture-lovers... The first is a piece I did to inset into the door of our last house. The second is one the wife did in the transom over the foyer doors in our current house. Both use a zinc channel around their outside for strength. The first was inset in the front door, so had to be strong enough to put up with the door opening and closing all the time. The second didn't itself move, but had to put up with pressure changes in the foyer as the doors opened and closed.
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