Dumb ?? by newbies re wheel bearings

[Farther]

Originally Posted by MikeS

...you should be slowly turning the wheel as you are pumping to reduce the chance of blowing a seal.

You mean that blowing the seal is not the indicator of adequate grease?

I'm thinking the first annual regrease is the most important to verify that all is good. Perhaps after that first annual shows all is good, a longer interval would be justified.

[Brian B-P]

I realize that trailers are not cars, but the bearing design used in these trailers is the same as the front of older rear wheel drive cars, and the rear of older front wheel drive cars... and they never needed annual servicing or grease flushing systems. My 1984 Toyota Tercel had this setup at the rear, including the one-piece drum and hub which means hub removal (and thus bearing disassembly) was required for brake service (other than adjustment). It went 354,000 km before it was retired for reasons unrelated to the bearings or brakes, after having no bearing replacement and no bearing service other than cleaning and repacking one (or twice?) when brake shoes needed to be changed. It seems to me that pumping grease through bearings like this is pointless, and tearing them down for inspection every year is excessive... but if people want to follow Dexter recommendations I understand that.

[Ron in BC]

Exactly my thoughts and experience. My view is that, on average, forum advice about the frequency of bearing service is massive overkill.

Ron

[Greg A]

Over the years, when talking with over the road truckers and I mention the annual repacking of bearings that seems to always come up in these forums they think we're nuts.

They tend to recommend just watching the temp on the hubs when traveling and if they're not getting overheated then all is good.

I guess if it makes one feel good then go for it, but most likely unnecessary maintenance.

To date I've had one pump through of grease with the ez lube at two years. Hubs still running at good temps.

[gbaglo]

My mechanic refused to inspect and repack my bearings. He said it wasn't necessary, having done the previous repack.

[Iowa Dave]

I think that I may have related this previously. When I was a yute, we worked in a service station. A 1958 Buick came in on with a grinding noise in the front end. On the front left side, the bearings had worn out and the ball bearings had come out of the cage. We cleaned things up and installed new bearings and bearing cups. 94,000 miles with no service before failure. The right side was ok but somewhat worn. We changed those too. I asked my dad why the bearing failed, “ Probably hit a curb” was his guess. 100,000 miles was not
uncommon and longer with disassembly and repacking was common. Dirt and moisture are the enemy in my opinion.
Iowa Dave

[Rossue]

My dad gave me a 1968 Chevy Impala in 1977. He rebuilt the 307 V-8 and ran great. Drove it from FLA to Montreal then west to Detroit then down to Colorado then to San Diego where I was living then- all in about a week. The next morning I drove it down the driveway and turned left. The right front wheel fell off.

My guess is ETI made EZ lube axles standard after so many customers ordered them for $150. Wish I had saved the money and recently changed my center caps to ones with no opening- have never used them.

I have inspected and repacked the bearings annually and the first time found two rear seals that were leaking. Have had to replace some bearings as well over the last five years too. Of course at the same time I check the brakes and adjust them. So for me it has paid off to be proactive and follow the mfg's schedule.

[cpaharley2008]

I have inspected and repacked the bearings annually and the first time found two rear seals that were leaking. Have had to replace some bearings as well over the last five years too. Of course at the same time I check the brakes and adjust them. So for me it has paid off to be proactive and follow the mfg's schedule.
Interestingly, upon return home from Chilliwack/Osoyoos we had to title our new E21 and transfer tags from our old Escape. In addition we have a yearly safety inspection for all vehicles and trailers over 3500#. My rv place found 2 seals that were leaking, so I had all 4 replaced. As Ross mentioned, being proactive can prevent issues down the road, or at least while turning left.

[Brian B-P]

While I've never had a problem with a leaking bearing seal, it is a potential problem... one which will not be detected by just flushing grease with the E-Z Lube feature. In fact, misuse of E-Z Lube can cause these leaks.

[ThomasG]

Can anyone recommend a good (and hopefully not too expensive) shop to do bearing and brake maintenance in the Austin, Texas area?

[comsult]

2012 Escape 13, picked it up in 2013. Always checked the hub temp while towing, and checked for wheel play when first taking it out of storage. So after 8 years and numerous trips in and around BC and Alberta, I’m going to take this COVID down time to inspect and repack the bearings.
Over the years, I’ve Done my cars, motorcycles, utility trailers and tent trailer bearings. So this job shouldn’t be difficult, the only problem is that I live in Northern BC and do want to have the bearing seals on hand when I do the repack. If I need to replace the bearings and races, then I will not mind having to order those in.
How do I find the seal size, without removing the hub?

[cpaharley2008]

Find out which bearing model you have and contact Dexter.

[comsult]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Find out which bearing model you have and contact Dexter.

My trailer pre-dates the EZ lube hubs. So does anyone know what size hub would be standard on the smaller 13 or 15 ft Escapes?

Sent an email to Escape and they sent me the part # for the EZ lube hub seal.
Just replied to them, will see if they respond with the correct size seal.

[Rossue]

The question is what Dexter axle does a 13 have? Is it the #10, or is it smaller?

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by comsult

2012 Escape 13, picked it up in 2013. Always checked the hub temp while towing, and checked for wheel play when first taking it out of storage. So after 8 years and numerous trips in and around BC and Alberta, I’m going to take this COVID down time to inspect and repack the bearings.
Over the years, I’ve Done my cars, motorcycles, utility trailers and tent trailer bearings. So this job shouldn’t be difficult, the only problem is that I live in Northern BC and do want to have the bearing seals on hand when I do the repack. If I need to replace the bearings and races, then I will not mind having to order those in.
How do I find the seal size, without removing the hub?

You should have Dexter Torflex #10 axles as that’s been the standard for Escape except for the early fifth wheels.
The seal for that axle is a Dexter Fusion seal ( two lips) with an inner spring . Dexter part number 010-019-00.
Hope things go well for you. I’m running Dexter’s grease or Lucas Red and Tacky. I’m also running Timken bearings.
Iowa Dave

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

You should have Dexter Torflex #10 axles as that’s been the standard for Escape except for the early fifth wheels.
The seal for that axle is a Dexter Fusion seal ( two lips) with an inner spring . Dexter part number 010-019-00.

Wouldn't even an early 5.0 (the first Escape fifth-wheel) have a Torflex #10? The first couple years of 5.0TA (2014-2015) have beam axles with leaf springs (not Torflex at all), but my understanding is that they're D35 axles so the hub components are the same as a Torflex #10.

While the stock seal with E-Z Lube is double-lip while the stock seal without E-Z Lube was single-lip, I think the same seals fit all D35/#10 greased hubs.

[Iowa Dave]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

Wouldn't even an early 5.0 (the first Escape fifth-wheel) have a Torflex #10? The first couple years of 5.0TA (2014-2015) have beam axles with leaf springs (not Torflex at all), but my understanding is that they're D35 axles so the hub components are the same as a Torflex #10.

While the stock seal with E-Z Lube is double-lip while the stock seal without E-Z Lube was single-lip, I think the same seals fit all D35/#10 greased hubs.

Hi Brian
When I bought seals a few years ago I think they might have been single lip but the last three sets for sure are the Dexter fusion loc double lip. The part number might have changed slightly I’m not sure and when I get new ones and the job is done I throw the old ones away. The double lip are working fine on our 2013 21 which is a easy lube unit, I just have not used that feature. But I think in the spring of 2017 I used that same seal on the 2010 19 Escape when I went over the bearings and replaced the brakes. Can’t remember.
Iowa Dave

[Rossue]

You can buy Dexter double lips for $8 each or a 10 pack of Lippert double lip on Amazon for $22. Been using them for five years now with no leaks.