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Old 08-14-2016, 12:51 PM   #21
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Thanks for the pictures Bob. It is done quite differently than my 2010. Tim I'm going to put buying a length of that on my list when we pick up our 21
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:01 PM   #22
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Here's some of my 2014, should be similiar but located in a different spot.

#1 is the braided, it is indeed a pex clamp.
#2 is the other side of the pump, on mine it goes to the winterizing valve and is clear. They used a regular hose clamp on the pump end, pex on the other.
#3 is of all things MOLD, in the line between the winterizing valve and the fresh water tank. Guess I've got to do some sterilizing. There was water trapped between the winterizing valve and the tank in what amounts to a p trap in the hose. Trailers been sitting since May. Guess I need to start blowing it out when not in use as opposed to just draining the system.

Good thing I went to take these pictures.
Thankyou for the picture clarification. I had to remove the line on the toilet to install a shutoff valve . Used a shark bite and put a flexible stainless hose after I cut that line off in bathroom . There was not enough room to install the shutoff under dinette as others did . Pat
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:17 PM   #23
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Two things I like better about those cinch clamp type PEX rings I posted above are 1: the tool is fairly inexpensive and 2: they are much easier to grab ahold of and cut off if needed. Each clamp cost more than the solid ring type but it is minimal for most projects. I tried to get myself to use the sharkbite type but they just felt too loose for me to feel safe with.
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:24 PM   #24
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Two things I like better about those cinch clamp type PEX rings I posted above are 1: the tool is fairly inexpensive and 2: they are much easier to grab ahold of and cut off if needed. Each clamp cost more than the solid ring type but it is minimal for most projects. I tried to get myself to use the sharkbite type but they just felt too loose for me to feel safe with.
Rich the shark bite used on flex line , I cut off, comes into bathroom if it ever leaked on our trailer .Also it seems pretty good on there . First time I ever used a shark bite , got it from a plumbing store and it sure is better then what was on there . And it can be removed . Pat
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:28 PM   #25
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I've also used Sharkbites, in the house. Easy to use, expensive, and do the job, but they do not instill confidence.
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:37 PM   #26
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I've also used Sharkbites, in the house. Easy to use, expensive, and do the job, but they do not instill confidence.
Bob since this is a trailer not my home I am good with this solution . Also any leaks it is in the bath . Pat
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Old 08-14-2016, 01:43 PM   #27
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Since I already owned the crimp tool and had some clamps left over from another job it made the decision easier. I guess I might trust the sharkbite type more in a stationary location than in our rolling earthquakes. (I just love Donna's analogies.)
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Old 08-14-2016, 02:06 PM   #28
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Bob since this is a trailer not my home I am good with this solution . Also any leaks it is in the bath . Pat
I didn't mean to infer they don't work, which they do, just that they don't look or feel like they would.

By the way, the clamp cutter tool might not be suitable for plastic fittings.
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Old 08-14-2016, 02:13 PM   #29
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I didn't mean to infer they don't work, which they do, just that they don't look or feel like they would.

By the way, the clamp cutter tool might not be suitable for plastic fittings.
No problem Bob . Because they didn't leave me much to work with this is a good enough solution .Pat
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Old 08-14-2016, 03:33 PM   #30
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I have used these on flexible pipe on a drip irrigation systems in our garden, but I've never seen them used on higher pressure applications or in a home or trailer.
That does look like a lower-pressure version of the "clinch" option for PEX.

Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
Here's some of my 2014, should be similiar but located in a different spot.

#1 is the braided, it is indeed a pex clamp.
#2 is the other side of the pump, on mine it goes to the winterizing valve and is clear. They used a regular hose clamp on the pump end, pex on the other...
It looks like they used a PEX ring #1 because it's a fitting intended for PEX. I have no idea why one would do this instead of using the fitting in #2, which is appropriate for the hose.

Quote:
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Two things I like better about those cinch clamp type PEX rings I posted above are 1: the tool is fairly inexpensive and 2: they are much easier to grab ahold of and cut off if needed. Each clamp cost more than the solid ring type but it is minimal for most projects.
A good description of why they are good for homeowners, but anyone doing a large number of connections would likely pay a bit more for tools, save a bit on every connection, and not worry about removal because when you do enough you get good at it.

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I've also used Sharkbites, in the house. Easy to use, expensive, and do the job, but they do not instill confidence.
Exactly my opinion.

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By the way, the clamp cutter tool might not be suitable for plastic fittings.
I agree - it looks suitable only for brass fittings. The jaw which goes inside the fitting would need to be much larger and curved to match the fitting to have any hope of not damaging a plastic fitting.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:34 PM   #31
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Ok I am still at it, The hose that broken between the water pump and the cold water line is a clear, braided THIN walled line, Lowes, Home Depot, Aces hardware and various RV stores carry Clear Braided THICK walled hose. The thin walled is fairly flexible so a clamp might work, the thick walled, which fits loosely on the escape connectors is too big for a PEX crimp or clamp ring and too stiff to crank down a hose clamp on it without the gear skipping (ie leaks). I sent a question to Escape, why can't I just use the PEX hose there, or do I actually need a hi pressure piece of hose there. This is like eating an oyster, the more you chew the bigger it (problem) gets!
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:36 PM   #32
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On an added note , I bought the PEX tool and the hose clamps, the ones with the little piece you squeeze not the copper rings. Should that work.
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:39 PM   #33
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You want a flexible hose to/from the pump, otherwise with a more rigid connection you will feel the pump's vibration in the trailer. The flexible connections eliminates the transfer of the vibrations somewhat.
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Old 09-06-2016, 07:09 PM   #34
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and too stiff to crank down a hose clamp on it without the gear skipping
You can always dip the end in boiling water or use a heat gun on the end. It will make it soft as putty and you can tighten the hose clamp more than when it's cold and stiff.

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Old 09-06-2016, 08:33 PM   #35
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Jim and Ron
Thanks 2 good points
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Old 09-24-2016, 02:25 PM   #36
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Final resolution, the clear braid 1/2 hose was too big, the 3/8's too small. heated and stretched the 3/8 to go over the connector and used hose clamps. Have not used it camping yet but did leave it hooked up under pressure for 24 hours with no leak. You know you start off thinking "this is a piece of cake, take me a 1/2 hour to fix" than you go look for a simple piece of hose and you hear "Oh - you got one of those...." You just got to love it! (this applies to boats X 5)
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