Electric Trailer Brake Problem

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Tonny: The Dexter Torflex #10 is the standard axle on all Escapes as far as I know. It is rated at a maximum of 3500#. Yours, like mine, are simply derated with less rubber inside. All brake/hub components are still the same. By the way, bolt circle is explained on the etrailer page for the hubs....just scroll down. Your bolt pattern is 5 on 4.5”. This is what you need:

Hubs:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hub.../84546UC3.html

Brake assemblies:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra.../23-26-27.html

Or Nev-R-Adjust assemblies if you so choose (FYI they still need an initial adjustment)
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Bra...3-468-469.html

Helo rubicon,
You are very helpful. I appreciated your input to my brake issues. I am very ignorant regarding brake and drum knowledge. I did read the bolt circle and learned a lot from the E trailer posting.

Tonny LR

[George Johnson]

Wow, this has been an informative thread for me. I learned a lot about Dexter trailer brakes that I didn't know before. Thanks to all of you!

[gbaglo]

First thing I'd look at because it's cheap, is your brake controller set to 'Boost'? It should not be, for a trailer that small. Just turn boost off.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by gbaglo

First thing I'd look at because it's cheap, is your brake controller set to 'Boost'? It should not be, for a trailer that small. Just turn boost off.

Hi gbaglo,
The trailer has a factory install integrated trailer brake controller. I set it at +4. I did not notice a setting of boost of this GMC SUV. Where can I find the boost function? It only has the manual and +/- settings?

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I skimmed this thread, and didn't see any mention of adjusting the brake shoes ?

when I manually actuate mine, I can make the trailer wheels skid, and of course, they smoke when skidding. If the gain is too high on my trailer brake controller, that too can cause skidding under hard braking, like when some dufous throws himself in front of you in moving traffic.

Hi John,
Thank you for pointing out the importance of properly adjusted brakes. I checked the wheel before each trip for free play and spinning the wheel to assess the need for adjustment. They were alright. When inspecting the brake assembly, all moving parts could not be moved by hand. It appeared the brakes were ceased due to rust and dirt. The brake pads have 1/8 " left instead of 1/4". Therefore it is time to repalce the whole brake assembly.

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

I’ve noticed that sometimes as brakes are applied for a dead stop at a light or at a stop sign and the trailer is “held” in place for a few moments, as I start out again I can momentarily feel and sometimes hear, one of the brakes hanging up. When that shoe “releases” I can feel the lighter drag on the tow vehicle.
This does not happen very often. Since the shoes pivot mechanically I can understand how rust or dirt would cause this hangup. All that said, each spring I make sure those pivot points are clean and free of dirt. Rust could be your enemy. It would be prudent to make sure things are clean and free. That includes the mounting for the magnets too.
Just a thought
Iowa Dave

Hi Dave,
It is great to hear from you. I will definitely maintain/service trailer brakes yearly. This is a good lesson learned. However, may I ask if there is a tool or easy way to release/remove the springs holding the brake pads together. I did attempt to remove the springs, but I don't have the strong upper arm strength to force the spring off the holding bolt. Any suggestions to free the springs will be great.

Tonny LR

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Tonny,
If you want to deal with brake springs I would buy a “brake Tool” the one by KD tools is good enough to last you a lifetime. When you deal with springs, striking tools or cutting wire with cutters, ALWAYS wear safety glasses or goggles. Pulling that spring over center is a lot easier with the brake tool. You can get one at most auto parts stores or at Lowe’s.
Iowa Dave

[Jim Bennett]

Related to this topic is to check each brake when trailer is fairly new for adjustment and effectiveness. I waited two years to adjust mine and 3 brakes took about 6-7 notch cranks which is a bit much because of waiting too long. The other brake took less than 2, it turns out that there was no connectivity at the brake, and a new crimp fixed it up good. I now have 4 brakes, nice.

I was going to check and redo the wiring to the brakes this year, but my fall put that off. I will be doing it next year though.

[Rossue]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

Hi John,
Thank you for pointing out the importance of properly adjusted brakes. I checked the wheel before each trip for free play and spinning the wheel to assess the need for adjustment. They were alright. When inspecting the brake assembly, all moving parts could not be moved by hand. It appeared the brakes were ceased due to rust and dirt. The brake pads have 1/8 " left instead of 1/4". Therefore it is time to repalce the whole brake assembly.

Tonny LR

Dexter says that you should replace the shoes if the material gets down to 1/16 of an inch thick or less.

I had a devil of a time figuring out why my passenger side front wheel was locking up when coming to a stop. LSS and in hindsight I firmly believe it was an adjustment issue.

Do any of your tires have flat spots on them?

[rubicon327]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

However, may I ask if there is a tool or easy way to release/remove the springs holding the brake pads together. I did attempt to remove the springs, but I don't have the strong upper arm strength to force the spring off the holding bolt. Any suggestions to free the springs will be great.

Tonny: Why are you messing with the springs if you are replacing the whole brake assembly?

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by rubicon327

Tonny: Why are you messing with the springs if you are replacing the whole brake assembly?

Hi rubicon,
I am definitely replacing the brake assembly with a new set. While we are still on this hot topic, I seek the opportunity to ask for method to service the brake. I am learning to be a DYI brake mechanic studying under Iowa Dave, so that I will be able to maintaian/service trailer brakes in the future. I was hoping that forum members may share usefull ideas.

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Dexter says that you should replace the shoes if the material gets down to 1/16 of an inch thick or less.

I had a devil of a time figuring out why my passenger side front wheel was locking up when coming to a stop. LSS and in hindsight I firmly believe it was an adjustment issue.

Do any of your tires have flat spots on them?

No flat spots. I have Goodyear Endurance tires installed 6 months ago per normal practice to replace tires when they are 5 years old.

Tonny LR

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Tonny,
If I bring my 16 inch Lodge Dutch Oven to the Mississippi Rally will you show me how to make the tastiest giant peach cobbler of all time? I’ll probably have to take out a loan to buy the peaches and the charcoal but it will be worth it. I did car brakes for the first time with my dad in about 1963. The drum brakes on the trailer are similar but electric not hydraulic. You’ll get proficient I’m sure.
Iowa Dave

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Tonny LR

The trailer has a factory install integrated trailer brake controller. I set it at +4. I did not notice a setting of boost of this GMC SUV. Where can I find the boost function? It only has the manual and +/- settings?

I assume that you meant that the tow vehicle has a factory installed integrated trailer brake controller.

I happen to have a copy of the 2013 Tahoe owners manual on my computer so I had a look, and there does not appear to be a "boost" function for the integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) in that vehicle; however, you should check your manual for your year and model to understand the ITBC operation properly. There is a screen of the Driver Information Center (DIC) display dedicated to the ITBC, and you could be using it to help troubleshoot your situation.

Manuals are available online from the vehicle manufacturer for anyone missing theirs or wanting to see the documentation for another vehicle. I have downloaded the manuals for my vehicles just so I can search the content more easily than in the paper copy.

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Iowa Dave

Hi Tonny,
If I bring my 16 inch Lodge Dutch Oven to the Mississippi Rally will you show me how to make the tastiest giant peach cobbler of all time? I’ll probably have to take out a loan to buy the peaches and the charcoal but it will be worth it. I did car brakes for the first time with my dad in about 1963. The drum brakes on the trailer are similar but electric not hydraulic. You’ll get proficient I’m sure.
Iowa Dave

Hi Dave,
We plan to attend the Mississippi Rally next year. We will freeze some fresh preach and cook peach cobbler. We hope to visit with your family. In the mean time, I will start pumping iron to strengthen my bicept muscle so that I can say that I am able to inspect, adjust, clean and lubricate trailer brakes. I learned a lot about trailer brakes thru you guys. I was totally clueless prior to this brake problem. I can say that this is a positive learning experience because I avoided a potential brake trouble if the brake smoking did not occurred 10 minutes before we returned to our home.

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I assume that you meant that the tow vehicle has a factory installed integrated trailer brake controller.

I happen to have a copy of the 2013 Tahoe owners manual on my computer so I had a look, and there does not appear to be a "boost" function for the integrated trailer brake controller (ITBC) in that vehicle; however, you should check your manual for your year and model to understand the ITBC operation properly. There is a screen of the Driver Information Center (DIC) display dedicated to the ITBC, and you could be using it to help troubleshoot your situation.
Manuals are available online from the vehicle manufacturer for anyone missing theirs or wanting to see the documentation for another vehicle. I have downloaded the manuals for my vehicles just so I can search the content more easily than in the paper copy.

HI Brian,
I will research ITBC boost function for my 2016 Yukon. Thank you for guiding me to that direction. I did not paying any attention to the controller function until recently someone posted the BIg Foot trailer crash.

Tonny LR

[Tonny LR]

Originally Posted by Rossue

Dexter says that you should replace the shoes if the material gets down to 1/16 of an inch thick or less.

I had a devil of a time figuring out why my passenger side front wheel was locking up when coming to a stop. LSS and in hindsight I firmly believe it was an adjustment issue.

Do any of your tires have flat spots on them?

In response to you and Jim's assesment that brake adjustment may be an issue. MY question is that when brakes are adjusted correctly the first time and continue to wear thinner thru travelling, even not adjusted for a few yeaars, should'nt a thinner brake pads reduce the chance of brake locking up? Thin brake pads do not occupay the space between the drum.

Tonny LR

[Bill and Earline]

Tonny,

We're all sort of tag-teaming you with our thoughts.

Upon inspection of my inoperative brake, I was really surprised how rusted all of the components are. That rust can easily make some components stick "on".

Whether you replace what you have or use solvent to loosen things up, be sure to get the black plugs to reduce water intrusion--2 per drum. I friend in Iowa sent me a set. I don't think these plugs have been supplied originally by Dexter.

Bill

[padlin]

When I got new assemblies they came with plugs.

[Iowa Dave]

Hi Bill
The adjusting tool only flips the star wheel out of one a slots as you know so I used a paint pen to mark which slot to use and then wrote the letter T and an arrow for the direction to tighten the shoes. Otherwise I get all confused from one side to the other. Dexter dealers have those plugs as a Dexter part but you don’t need to buy them if you take time to pry them out of an old set and install them into a new set. Or know a hoarder.
Iowa Dave