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Old 11-16-2019, 07:31 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tonny LR View Post
In response to you and Jim's assesment that brake adjustment may be an issue. MY question is that when brakes are adjusted correctly the first time and continue to wear thinner thru travelling, even not adjusted for a few yeaars, should'nt a thinner brake pads reduce the chance of brake locking up? Thin brake pads do not occupay the space between the drum.

Tonny LR
Thickness of pads dont account for locking up or not. What does matter is the play or distance between the pads and the drum. When brakes are out of adjustment they almost always are going to have too much play. Then when you apply the brakes they tend to slap against the drum wall vs. being closer and not having that distance to create perhaps some centrifugal force.
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:35 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill and Earline View Post
Tonny,

We're all sort of tag-teaming you with our thoughts.

Upon inspection of my inoperative brake, I was really surprised how rusted all of the components are. That rust can easily make some components stick "on".

Whether you replace what you have or use solvent to loosen things up, be sure to get the black plugs to reduce water intrusion--2 per drum. I friend in Iowa sent me a set. I don't think these plugs have been supplied originally by Dexter.

Bill
Bill,
Will follow what you shared with me. I bebieve that new brake assembly come with plugs. If not I shall order 4 new plugs from Amazon. I don't plan to use current brakes. I just want to do it right the first time. Thanks again. BTW i won't be testing the magnet of the brakes. we hope to see you and Earline at the next year's Mississippi River Rally.

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Old 11-17-2019, 09:20 AM   #43
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ETrailer has the plugs https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...line/46-7.html
on edit Amazon also https://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-H14...4004154&sr=8-2
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Old 11-17-2019, 09:26 AM   #44
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May as well get one of these if you do not already own one https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-50700-B...SG1CTVGHWFDKTD
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:12 PM   #45
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Brake Shoes springs return and instal plier. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Install-D...df_B079P5DZCQ/
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:17 PM   #46
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I have one of those, forgot what it was for as most vehicles these days use disc brakes
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:24 PM   #47
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I have one of those, forgot what it was for as most vehicles these days use disc brakes
Jim,
This is a handy tool to remove and instal drum brake spring. I intent to get one. Thank you for posting the picture to share with forum members.

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Old 11-17-2019, 02:26 PM   #48
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I used the same tool but found the round cup part doesn't fit the trailers brakes, doesn't quite fit over the brakes spring post. It worked eventually, holding it at an angle, but not quite the way it's intended. Still, better then no tool.
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Old 11-17-2019, 02:42 PM   #49
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There might be metric and/or SAE versions of the same tool....
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Old 11-17-2019, 03:25 PM   #50
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Complete Drum Tool Kit: http://amzn.to/2oRlTow
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:59 PM   #51
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That looks like a nice set, perhaps another Escapee near you could split the costs. I'm not sure I'll ever fill my propane tanks let alone wear out a set of brakes.....
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Old 11-17-2019, 06:08 PM   #52
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Personally I prefer a large flathead screwdriver to the brake adjuster tool, which I bought yet did not like the feedback when turning the star adjuster. As has been pointed out in several forums- when the shoes or magnets go it is far better to get the complete backing plate vs. fooling with installing individual parts. I see no need for the drum brake kit.
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Old 11-17-2019, 06:26 PM   #53
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If you hit garage sales or auctions, once in a while they will have a treasure trove of old tools. The best “brake spoons” are a little rounded off and very smooth from use. Pick a couple up if you see them and know what you are looking at. New ones with sharp wide corners and not so smooth “handles” where you put your hand are much harder to use. Back in the day adjusting brakes was a minor upgrade to a $1.50 grease job and for a good customer as automatic as lubrication of all the rubber mounts, checking the gear lube in the pumpkin and transmission and making sure all the tires were correctly inflated including the spare. Raise your hand if you ever took the little cap off the reservoir on the knee action shock absorbers on a Buick to check the fluid level.
I suspect it costs more than $1.50 now.
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:34 PM   #54
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I remember adding used oil to my air cleaner bath and the vacuum wipers stop working while going up a hill all in my 1956 Ford....
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:44 PM   #55
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Next time somebody brags about being an engineer, ask them why the windshield wipers on my '58 Pontiac ( and your Ford ) slowed almost to a stop when you accelerated.
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Old 11-17-2019, 08:23 PM   #56
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Next time somebody brags about being an engineer, ask them why the windshield wipers on my '58 Pontiac ( and your Ford ) slowed almost to a stop when you accelerated.
Vacuum
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Old 11-17-2019, 09:41 PM   #57
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Vacuum

Yup. I know. I think it was 'vacuum assist' although I don't know what was being assisted. My real question is why would they choose that method to power the windshield wipers?
My Pontiac had another feature. If you punched the gas pedal, the exhaust system would detach itself somewhere and you'd lose power, just when you needed it, like passing.
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:27 AM   #58
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I think it was 'vacuum assist' although I don't know what was being assisted. My real question is why would they choose that method to power the windshield wipers?
Back then, electric motors were not so cheap and universally used. Vacuum was available, so it was used. They were vacuum-powered, not vacuum-assisted. Similarly, heavy trucks and buses all have air brakes, so they have air pumps, so they all had pneumatic wipers... but most, perhaps all, are now electric and have been for a couple of decades.

It won't be long before people ask why cars ever had vacuum-boosted brakes, or ridiculouly complex steering boosted by an engine-driven hydraulic pump.
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:36 AM   #59
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I figured, but thought I'd ask anyway. Why would we ever use internal combustion engines? It's just that I can't think of anything more aggravating than having vacuum-powered wipers in Vancouver.
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:04 AM   #60
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It's just that I can't think of anything more aggravating than having vacuum-powered wipers in Vancouver.
Hand-cranked wipers... which was the first type used. There were also hydraulically powered wipers (which seem likely to require expensive repair) and even a Citroen system that ran then from the speedometer cable so they slowed down and stopped when the car did!

I now realize that later vacuum wipers had a dual power system, which also powered them with the fuel flow, which was high when the vacuum was low (the vacuum was apparently seem as the "assist"). Electric motors must have been really expensive, or cars just didn't have enough electrical capacity.

But for aggravation, how about retractable headlights in a place that gets freezing rain? That was common for decades.

Now Tesla uses flush door handles which freeze in place so you can't get into the car to be annoyed by things like wipers, even though every other car has functional door handles without this problem.

Lots of things get done for reasons that made sense at the time, but are nonsensical in hindsight.
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