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Old 09-06-2014, 11:02 AM   #1
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Electrical question - EMS installation

Just picked up my new 21 this week and working through some electrical problems discovered when I got it home. Can someone tell me if this EMS appears to be installed correctly (as in the output side has the data cable port on it?) Can't find a picture on their website or in the manual. I'm suspecting the installer just put the cover on backwards........

Also, where does ETI usually pick off 12V for added power drops? Mine are dead (or completely missing although on the build sheet.)
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #2
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I would say you are correct about the cover being installed backward.

Are you missing the 12 outlets?
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:50 AM   #3
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I ordered 12VDC drops inside the overhead cabinets for LED strip lighting later. They are on the build sheet but not installed in the trailer. Moral is DO NOT 100% believe what you are told during orientation/checkout at ETI. Physically verify EVERY item on your build sheet.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:20 PM   #4
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Charlie, you're right, the data cable is on the output end of the box. I'm sure they flipped the lid so you could more easily read the trouble codes. Looks like a nice clean installation don't you think?
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tractors1 View Post
I ordered 12VDC drops inside the overhead cabinets for LED strip lighting later. They are on the build sheet but not installed in the trailer. Moral is DO NOT 100% believe what you are told during orientation/checkout at ETI. Physically verify EVERY item on your build sheet.
Mine were tucked way up into the corners of the OH cabinets and secured by clamps; not easily visible. The coils of wire under the bed were on each corner up against the forward wall; the coils under each dinette seat were also in the very front corners. Also, even though I had the drops, I didn't have power to any of them. I contacted ETI and someone (can't remember the name) called me and talked me through where to tap into the existing circuits.
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:56 PM   #6
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Charlie, you're right, the data cable is on the output end of the box. I'm sure they flipped the lid so you could more easily read the trouble codes. Looks like a nice clean installation don't you think?
Tom
While it is nice to be able to read the trouble codes if needed, the I/O has to be labelled correctly should someone need to replace the unit......

Best compromise would have been to put NEW labels for input and output over the factory markings - which I will do since I have a label maker!
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Old 09-06-2014, 02:36 PM   #7
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Also, even though I had the drops, I didn't have power to any of them. I contacted ETI and someone (can't remember the name) called me and talked me through where to tap into the existing circuits.
Attachment 7717
What good is it having the drops if there isn't any power to them? was it hard to tap into the existing circuits? I got three drops in the new 21 -- one in the dinette overheads, one in the kitchen overheads and one in bed overheads. my hope is that I can use those drops to power LED cabinet lights in all the overheads, and perhaps a 12v outer or two. I guess I need to figure out how many amps all this would be so that I don't have to worry about blowing a fuse.
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Old 09-06-2014, 04:51 PM   #8
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What good is it having the drops if there isn't any power to them? was it hard to tap into the existing circuits? I got three drops in the new 21 -- one in the dinette overheads, one in the kitchen overheads and one in bed overheads. my hope is that I can use those drops to power LED cabinet lights in all the overheads, and perhaps a 12v outer or two. I guess I need to figure out how many amps all this would be so that I don't have to worry about blowing a fuse.
One simple way would be to have a 12V cigarette lighter socket installed in the over-the-sink cabinet, and one cabinet on either side of the fridge/micro/closet unit. They would be good for at least 10 amps and they have readily accessible spade terminals on the back side. From those you could string power through the rest of the cabinets as you desired.
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Old 09-07-2014, 08:36 PM   #9
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Figured out one of my 12V drops with no power that Escape installed under the bed on my new 21 was actually spliced into the power wires for my tank sensors...

Since I had it installed next to the outside hatch for a future storage compartment light, that wouldn't have worked too well.

Moved the wires over to the correct red/black runs since I have the bed platform removed to fix the power to my wireless camera transmitter already....... lower white electrical tape is where the factory crimps were.
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Old 09-07-2014, 09:06 PM   #10
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Charlie Y, I agree, re-labeling would be the right thing to do if an electrician wanted to reverse the cover to make it easier to read. If they'de done that, this question would not have been posted.
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