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Old 02-14-2014, 09:19 PM   #91
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Ron,

The isolation switch won't work with the standard Escape install; they use dual 6V in series.

... unless you mean to put a relay/isolator in, or in line with the tow vehicle so the trailer is disconnected when not charging.

Cheers,
John
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:33 PM   #92
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OK, think I get the point. I'm going to replace that 8 gauge factory wire running from the battery to inside terminal, and my inverter, with 0 gauge copper. And, between the two batteries. Why take a chance, right? Guessing 4 feet will do. Hmm... or, ...should it be my old 4 AWG?

See where on EBay a 50 foot spool of "0" gauge goes for eighty buckaroos? No wonder people are stealing it, and other vendors are not saying their product is aluminum.

Here's a pix of Dave's battery. He's got a factory inverter, it is 1000watt. Note the 100w fuse? Neglected to ask him what gauge they used there. Can't tell from this pix.

By the way Doug, nice graphics post#71
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File Type: jpg Dave-wire1.jpg (105.1 KB, 18 views)
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:48 PM   #93
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We have a factory-installed 1500W inverter and dual 6V batteries. They ran 8 gauge wire between the batteries and the converter/12V panel. They ran dedicated 4 gauge wire from the batteries to the inverter. I replaced the factory 8 gauge wire between the 2 batteries with a shorter 4 gauge wire.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:51 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamman View Post
We have a factory-installed 1500W inverter and dual 6V batteries. They ran 8 gauge wire between the batteries and the converter/12V panel. They ran dedicated 4 gauge wire from the batteries to the inverter. I replaced the factory 8 gauge wire between the 2 batteries with a shorter 4 gauge wire.
Sheesh!
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:04 PM   #95
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Ron,

The isolation switch won't work with the standard Escape install; they use dual 6V in series.

Cheers,
John
Thanks John, but it will work fine. Two 6V batteries would be considered one bank and not switched independently. Anyway, in my case I'm getting my trailer with one group 27 and I'll add a second to make two banks.

Myron, are wire isn't created equal. Some have very fine individual strands and some are quite coarse. The coarse ones are much harder to install in confined spaces etc.

Ron
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:14 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
The only thing I do in addition to this is take the opportunity to add in a marine battery switch so that one battery is always isolated from the other unless you select "both".
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnE3 View Post
The isolation switch won't work with the standard Escape install; they use dual 6V in series
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Thanks John, but it will work fine. Two 6V batteries would be considered one bank and not switched independently.
I think that was John's point; it was at least what I would have posted if John had not covered it first. The two 6V batteries are indeed a single bank, so a bank-selector switch would have no function.

Of course with Ron's two-bank plan (consisting of two Group 27 12-volt batteries) the selector switch would make sense.
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:18 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by MyronL View Post
Here's a pix of Dave's battery. He's got a factory inverter, it is 1000watt. Note the 100w fuse?
Although the annotation on the photo says "100 watt fuse", it is of course a 100 amp fuse. It looks like a Bussmann MAX automotive fuse, which I think would be more convenient than the AGU style. The terminal-mounted holder is convenient and ensures that the fuse protects the system from overcurrent due to damage anywhere along the entire length of the attached cable causing a short-circuit; I don't think it's a Bussmann holder.
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:28 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by jamman View Post
I replaced the factory 8 gauge wire between the 2 batteries with a shorter 4 gauge wire.
I think that's wise, especially if the 8 gauge plus 4 gauge wires are needed to handle the maximum current, since the inter-battery jumper carries the total current flowing in all attached circuits. I suppose if overloading is not an issue and the other wires are that large just to minimize voltage drop, then the jumper is too short to be important to voltage loss.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:56 AM   #99
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In Myron's install, removing the factory 8ga and installing 4ga to the inverter and 8 from the inverter lug to the converter gives him 95A capacity, which covers max combined load.
As the correct temp 8ga can handle 55A, would a valid option be to leave in the factory and add a 2nd run of 8ga from the inverter to the batteries or is 1 4ga better then 2 8's?

In either case one would use a 4ga jumper.

For Jamman's install, is the dedicated 4ga sufficient for the 1500w inverter?
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Old 02-15-2014, 10:39 AM   #100
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I mis-spoke. Dave's is a 100 Amp fuse. Off to Home Depot-ski today, confident replacing all the 8's with 4's will do me just fine. "0" is so bloody stiff, and expensive, and probably anal. But where do I get a Bussmann max automotive fuse? Ahh-- it uses a Red Spot Fuse holder. Must check with Pep Boys for that.
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