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Old 02-18-2014, 04:30 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer View Post
As long as no corrosion exists between the wire connector and the frame, a steel frame like the Escapes ought to be able to carry a lot of current.
Sure, but if you expose steel and wait, you have corrosion. One method to avoid this is to make the connection, then paint it with an insulating layer... meaning you never move or check it again.
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:34 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
A good example is electric brakes. I've seen the ground wire attached with a lug to the backing plate. It's an area subject to a lot of moisture. If that ground connection fails then so do the brakes.
That's just nuts. Even if a perfect connection is made to the backing plate, it is bolted to the axle tube or suspension arm, which in turn is connected to the frame through rubber bushings. If the backing plate were a good "ground" point, I would expect the brake magnets would be designed to ground through it, just as many trailer light fixtures (intended for steel trailers) ground through their housing and mounting screws.
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Old 02-18-2014, 04:55 PM   #143
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"....an easy maintenance check would be to check for resistance between the battery's negative terminal and the Escape's frame."

Thoer, I have great resistance to excess anality.
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Old 02-18-2014, 06:54 PM   #144
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Again, my factory installed pair of 6V batteries were wired directly to the converter (well, through the disconnect switch &. 30 amp circuit breaker) with #10 THHN wire.The converter had what I believe was a #10 wire running from the chassis to the frame. I don't have my code book handy, but I seem to remember (a dangerous statement) that the NEC requires a #6 wire between the converter case & the trailer frame, but, of course, the trailer is made in Canada, and my brain is 69 years old...
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:54 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRietkerk View Post
The surge protector that Escape installs for more $ than the portable one shown has some additional advantages. It cannot be stolen. It protects against over voltage and under voltage.
On our last trip we camped at a fully occupied large camp site. Their electrical system must have been over loaded because the voltage dropped down to a point where our EMS tripped us out. I would recommend installing an EMS to protect your air conditioner etc. if you plan to visit many different campsites at various times of the year. Voltage ( too high or too low) at a particular campsite will depend on the size of their electrical system and load drawn.
Hi Brian--

You say the surge protector protects against under voltage as well as over. Does this make it an EMS? or do you need yet another device?

Harris
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Old 02-23-2014, 04:57 PM   #146
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The term for the unit is Electrical Management System described here EMS-HW30C
this is what ETI installs and it comes with a lifetime warranty, something rare these days
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:42 PM   #147
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Got a new electrical challenge today.

Preparing for a 3-day trip tomorrow I hooked the trailer up to the tow to check for road ready. My street-side rear marker light don't light. It is LED of course, fixture is sealed in place with rivets and caulk. Popped off the lens, tapped gently on it, but unless I am missing something it seems clear the entire unit must be drilled out and replaced.

Very disappointed to see this. All other marker lights, etc are good to go. Man, I hate to send Tammy an email on this.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:48 PM   #148
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I can't say what's happening with your Escape Myron, since I don't own one. But I can tell you, I've found MOST exterior lights are sealed. No replacement parts, unless the OP started with an incandescent marker (tail light) and replace only the bulb. Seems pretty standard now a days (sealed).
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:53 PM   #149
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Yes with the old incandescent bulb markers a burnt bulb is easily replaced. Not so with the LED version. You can replace a busted lens, but that's it. Plus, it is riveted into the shell.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:58 PM   #150
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This was one of my changes made to my new 21' Escape. When I saw the factory sealed marker lights on my 2012 Escape 19 involved rivets and irreplaceable parts, I requested that ETI install the older incandescent models with replaceable bulbs which were "upgraded" with LED bulbs on "BlackJack" thereby eliminating this potential issue. Something to think about when replacing any exterior light units, sometimes the old way is the better way!! The large brake/tail lights are screw attached and easily replaced.
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