Electrically challenged

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by thoer

As long as no corrosion exists between the wire connector and the frame, a steel frame like the Escapes ought to be able to carry a lot of current.

Sure, but if you expose steel and wait, you have corrosion. One method to avoid this is to make the connection, then paint it with an insulating layer... meaning you never move or check it again.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Ron in BC

A good example is electric brakes. I've seen the ground wire attached with a lug to the backing plate. It's an area subject to a lot of moisture. If that ground connection fails then so do the brakes.

That's just nuts. Even if a perfect connection is made to the backing plate, it is bolted to the axle tube or suspension arm, which in turn is connected to the frame through rubber bushings. If the backing plate were a good "ground" point, I would expect the brake magnets would be designed to ground through it, just as many trailer light fixtures (intended for steel trailers) ground through their housing and mounting screws.

[MyronL]

"....an easy maintenance check would be to check for resistance between the battery's negative terminal and the Escape's frame."

Thoer, I have great resistance to excess anality.

[Vermilye]

Again, my factory installed pair of 6V batteries were wired directly to the converter (well, through the disconnect switch &. 30 amp circuit breaker) with #10 THHN wire.The converter had what I believe was a #10 wire running from the chassis to the frame. I don't have my code book handy, but I seem to remember (a dangerous statement) that the NEC requires a #6 wire between the converter case & the trailer frame, but, of course, the trailer is made in Canada, and my brain is 69 years old...

[Ellentob]

Originally Posted by BRietkerk

The surge protector that Escape installs for more $ than the portable one shown has some additional advantages. It cannot be stolen. It protects against over voltage and under voltage.
On our last trip we camped at a fully occupied large camp site. Their electrical system must have been over loaded because the voltage dropped down to a point where our EMS tripped us out. I would recommend installing an EMS to protect your air conditioner etc. if you plan to visit many different campsites at various times of the year. Voltage ( too high or too low) at a particular campsite will depend on the size of their electrical system and load drawn.

Hi Brian--

You say the surge protector protects against under voltage as well as over. Does this make it an EMS? or do you need yet another device?

Harris

[cpaharley2008]

The term for the unit is Electrical Management System described here EMS-HW30C
this is what ETI installs and it comes with a lifetime warranty, something rare these days

[MyronL]

Got a new electrical challenge today.

Preparing for a 3-day trip tomorrow I hooked the trailer up to the tow to check for road ready. My street-side rear marker light don't light. It is LED of course, fixture is sealed in place with rivets and caulk. Popped off the lens, tapped gently on it, but unless I am missing something it seems clear the entire unit must be drilled out and replaced.

Very disappointed to see this. All other marker lights, etc are good to go. Man, I hate to send Tammy an email on this.

[Donna D.]

I can't say what's happening with your Escape Myron, since I don't own one. But I can tell you, I've found MOST exterior lights are sealed. No replacement parts, unless the OP started with an incandescent marker (tail light) and replace only the bulb. Seems pretty standard now a days (sealed).

[MyronL]

Yes with the old incandescent bulb markers a burnt bulb is easily replaced. Not so with the LED version. You can replace a busted lens, but that's it. Plus, it is riveted into the shell.

[cpaharley2008]

This was one of my changes made to my new 21' Escape. When I saw the factory sealed marker lights on my 2012 Escape 19 involved rivets and irreplaceable parts, I requested that ETI install the older incandescent models with replaceable bulbs which were "upgraded" with LED bulbs on "BlackJack" thereby eliminating this potential issue. Something to think about when replacing any exterior light units, sometimes the old way is the better way!! The large brake/tail lights are screw attached and easily replaced.

[Brian B-P]

Myron, can you get to the wiring on the inside to see if the problem is a lack of power (bad connection somewhere) or definitely a failed light unit (power in, no light out)? I don't know what interior bits line up exactly with this location, so I don't know how practical it is to get at the wiring.

LEDs have very long lives, but some certainly do fail early - even though they test fine at installation time - so a replacement is occasionally necessary.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

When I saw the factory sealed units on my 2012 Escape 19 involved rivets and irreplaceable parts, I requested that ETI install the older incandescent models with replaceable bulbs which were "upgraded" with LED bulbs on "BlackJack" thereby eliminating this potential issue. Something to think about when replacing any exterior light units, sometimes the old way is the better way!!

This makes sense, but is also greatly increases the chance of failure due to poor connections (because there are all those extra sockets), and in some cases means inferior light patterns (because a cluster of LEDs are being used in a reflector and lens system designed for a glowing filament).

An LED unit which fails early is likely to fail very early - such as under warranty - so the replacement unit cost might not be such a big deal.

There are reasons that all cars that go to external LEDs use dedicated LED lamps, not conversion units in the old fixtures.

[MyronL]

Getting to that inside wiring is virtually impossible. It is behind the water heater under the bed way in the corner. A skinny 12 year old might get there. I probably will have to drill out the rivets and very very carefully cut away the caulk and I guess re-rivet a completely new unit in place. (Growl-- who (besides Jim) knew?)

[cpaharley2008]

Brian, the wiring in the Escape is behind 1-2" of interior naugahyde on the uppers and as Myron pointed, some of the lower ones are inaccessible. In addition the units are riveted. I was told that screw types could not be used. The marker lights with the led bulbs are very bright and I'd much rather have the ease of access vs with a connection issue to deal with.
There is one non led light, the license plate that you should carry a spare for, it is a small bulb, similar to the interior hood light.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

the wiring in the Escape is behind 1-2" of interior naugahyde on the uppers and as Myron pointed, some of the lower ones are inaccessible.

As expected, but in some cases it would be accessible in cabinet spaces. In this case it appears it would be, if not for the water heater. Worth checking...

[MyronL]

It was an easy fix in my old Burro and my old Scamp. Been there. Well I guess I could always remove the queen sized mattress and get a jig saw out, cut open a hatch in the corner.

[dbailey]

When I messed up the city water check valve in my 19, to repair it I moved the mattress and unscrewed the bed platform. Pain in the backside, but much easier than working while stretched out under the bed platform with my feet hanging out the hatch.

But, if you go that route, it's a good time to install a T-valve in your water line for winterizing, and to put a bag around your shore power cord (if you're inclined).

[MyronL]

Pain in the backside? You got that right.

It will all have to wait until we get back. My bags are packed, ready to go, I'm leaving on a jet plane.... oh wait, check that... Leaving on an Escape plane, er, plan, be back in a few days.... full report, with pictures no doubt, might be unavoidable.

[escape artist]

Originally Posted by MyronL

It was an easy fix in my old Burro and my old Scamp. Been there. Well I guess I could always remove the queen sized mattress and get a jig saw out, cut open a hatch in the corner.

Hi: MyronL... Quick ?...Did you check your 7 pin connector first? I always do the simple first as I'm best at that!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Ft.Myers Beach Florida for now

[MyronL]

Amazing news. The problem light is a problem no more. No explanation why. Can only tell the truth: When we pulled out at 8:30 Friday morning all marker lights were working. When we returned home a few hours ago they were all working. I did nothing. The 7 pin connector was untouched, left plugged in from the previous day when the problem first appeared.

Have no clue. None, nada, nicht, nietz, nope.