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Old 02-15-2014, 10:04 AM   #101
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electric cables

When I needed large or long battery cables I have used welding cable leads in the large size, cut to length and ends properly installed at the welding supply store.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:13 AM   #102
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I second Jack's suggestion. Welding cables properly terminated with swagged ends can't be beat.

For the type of current demands expected, I do recommend getting the cables properly terminated with some form of compression fitting. But if you do choose to use a screw clamp type fitting, remember to go back a day later and retighten. Copper is maleable and the big wires need retightening.
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:21 AM   #103
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One thing about welding cable, even though it's large in diameter, it's very flexible, (for its size) making it much easier to work with. It's due to the small, many strand construction. I know welding cable is capable of carrying high current for short periods of time in exposed areas, but are they rated to carry a continuous current in confined spaces? I don't remember the difference between, say 5 large gauge strands vs 50 small gauge strands used to make up the same overall size??
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Old 02-15-2014, 11:41 AM   #104
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Diameter of wire determines current capacity, but insulation class also factors in to determine use. Whichever type of wire selected, we'd need to check the insulation to see if rated for the environment where it is intended to be installed.
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Old 02-15-2014, 12:48 PM   #105
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But where do I get a Bussmann max automotive fuse? Ahh-- it uses a Red Spot Fuse holder. Must check with Pep Boys for that.
They're pretty common (in various brands, not just Bussmann) in automotive use, as factory equipment rather than the aftermarket use of AGU fuses, but there are also other styles of large automotive fuse. I think the challenge is finding the right holder for any common style - Pep Boys or any other auto supply chain seems like a good bet for the corresponding fuse.

The inline AGU holder would work fine, too, but I like the installation and access convenience of a terminal-mounted holder.

Terminal-mounted fuse holders are used on current cars, but as aftermarket parts they seem to be more of an RV and marine thing than automotive.
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Old 02-16-2014, 08:51 PM   #106
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Inverter wiring upgrade finished. The hole is cut; Xantrex screwed in place, nose poking through paneling face. All is good. Will admit I had great pre-surgery anxiety about cutting that opening hole in fact, before tackling it this afternoon I had to stop, go sit down in front of the television and ponder the wisdom of it all. That Canadian hockey win over the Fins got me up and running back out to the trailer.

Turns out wasn't so bad out there either. Careful template creation was the key. Just in case I needed to hide big cutting boo boos I made a very careful bezel from scrap paneling. The very thin Escape laminate paneling was easy to cut through with just a fresh, sharp razor knife. I was afraid of creating horrid chip-out with the jigsaw. It never happened. Liking that bezel enough to glue it in place, anyway.

When it was all done I exhaled, plugged in my DeWalt drill, the inverter warning buzzer sounded off, and its internal safeguards kicked in shutting things down, just like advertised. Think I’ll have a couple fingers of Glen Morangie now.
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Old 02-17-2014, 05:47 AM   #107
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What did you end up doing for the run to the battery?
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:18 AM   #108
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Here is what's been done. Summing up, one may ask, was it all worth it?

True, a small inverter, say a forty-buck, plug-in-to-the-cigarette-lighter 75 or 175 or 400 amp will no doubt serve me just as well considering the light usage I am likely to require. In fact, have one of those in the car, had it for years. Has a noisy fan, is modified sine wave, of course.

Materials costs, aggravation, these don't come cheap. Satisfaction? Priceless.
Attached Thumbnails
In-01.jpg   In-02A.jpg  
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:22 AM   #109
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Myron - looks like you did a very nice job of it.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:28 AM   #110
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Thanks I appreciate that. Now I have begun thinking if and how could this inverter be connected to the converter so the factory 12v. plugs can use it. Hmm.
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:50 AM   #111
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Myron, it looks like you ran a dedicated 4 AWG cable (with inline fuse at the battery end) from inverter positive input to the battery positive terminal, using a bolted splice connection. On the negative side, did you use the original 8 AWG cable from the converter/panel terminal to the battery, sharing it with the converter/panel?
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:52 AM   #112
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Thanks I appreciate that. Now I have begun thinking if and how could this inverter be connected to the converter so the factory 12v. plugs can use it. Hmm.
I don't understand this. How would the 120 VAC produced by the inverter be useful to the 12 VDC outlets?
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Old 02-17-2014, 10:59 AM   #113
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Thanks I appreciate that. Now I have begun thinking if and how could this inverter be connected to the converter so the factory 12v. plugs can use it. Hmm.
LOL you sure know how to keep yourself busy dreaming up jobs on that Escape!
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:17 AM   #114
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On the negative side, did you use the original 8 AWG cable from the converter/panel terminal to the battery, sharing it with the converter/panel?
Correct. Have not replaced any 8 AWG converter wiring. This reminds me, I should replace the short 8awg connecting both 6v batteries with 4awg, right?

The factory 12v cigarette outlets are wired in the walls and back to the converter. If the converter isn't also an inverter, wondering about running them wires direct to the Xantrex.
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:31 AM   #115
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If the converter isn't also an inverter, wondering about running them wires direct to the Xantrex.
Why would you want to do that? The converter performs one function, the inverter another, both separate, mutually exclusive.
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:38 AM   #116
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Will admit I had great pre-surgery anxiety about cutting that opening hole in fact, before tackling it this afternoon I had to stop, go sit down in front of the television and ponder the wisdom of it all. T
I think we all suffer from "analysis paralysis" when it comes to making cuts into something we know can't be undone if we boo-boo. Sometimes I almost hold my breath and take the plunge.

The end result looks good and now I know what mine will look like and how it'll fit as it's one of the first things that I'll do. I've had inverters since they first came out in the early 80s and while I'm not a heavy user, it's nice to have 110 on tap whenever needed. I think I paid about $400 for a 400 watt unit. Nice that they've really come down in price since then.

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Old 02-17-2014, 11:56 AM   #117
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Myron

The 12V outlets are fed from the battery, which is recharged by the converter. They always powered - unless you disconnect the batteries.

The inverter is fed from the battery...
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:04 PM   #118
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Along this line… I bought a portable Xantrex 1500 inverter that has its own batteries. The batteries have died and it isn't worth the cost of replacing them but the Xantrex 1500 inverter is still good (hardly used.) Any ideas on repurposing this inverter for the Escape? It looks to be a standard inverter, nothing special about it other than it had its own portable battery source. Hate to toss it if usable.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:24 PM   #119
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Tim, sounds like one of these... Xantrex has a 1500w unit. Power Inverter, Marine Inverter, XPower Inverter

If so it would be feasible but maybe not practical. You'd have to see if you can get the inverter out and in some sort of installible condition. Wouldn't want to mount that whole case in the trailer.
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Old 02-17-2014, 12:39 PM   #120
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Whoa, time out. Think this is clear: My inverter (+) goes direct to my battery and it's (-) goes direct to ground (which happens to also be a terminal on the converter back). The converter plays no other role in this scenario other than to act as battery recharger when needed. So Tim I see no reason why you can't employ the same with your 1500, so long as you use at least 4 awg wire like me.

CP and Brian: Hoping I got this right. My thinking was to find them wires running from the cigarette outlets to the Converter power center and divert them to my inverter somehow, so those outlets are thereby instantly "inverted" for AC appliances. I realize this is silly if those plugs only work with 12v. appliances to start with. Sooo...question is, can I find wires to an ac outlet near the bed I can bypass from going to the converter and divert to the inverter?
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