Fractured chassis 2010 Escape 19' just behind the front jack on driver's side. - Page 5 - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 11-09-2015, 10:06 PM   #41
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I would say the whole frame should be changed . A brake like that indicates there is something with the way that metal was dawn from the furnace an improperly chilled .
Where and when will it brake next even after a repair is made. A hardness test should be done to see if the whole thing isn't affected . Maybe have it inspected by a frame shop and get a proper report .
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:29 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post
I would say the whole frame should be changed . A brake like that indicates there is something with the way that metal was dawn from the furnace an improperly chilled .
Where and when will it brake next even after a repair is made. A hardness test should be done to see if the whole thing isn't affected . Maybe have it inspected by a frame shop and get a proper report .
I would totally agree . I also would get more then one opinion. Pat
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:47 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Devil Dog View Post
I would say the whole frame should be changed . A brake like that indicates there is something with the way that metal was dawn from the furnace an improperly chilled .
Where and when will it brake next even after a repair is made. A hardness test should be done to see if the whole thing isn't affected . Maybe have it inspected by a frame shop and get a proper report .
I think that changing the whole frame is way too radical of a thing to do. Your suggestion of having it inspected though, I think is a really good idea, and should be a first course of action. Then make a decision.
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:48 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by David H View Post
I agree. I believe these frames are T1 alloy steel (ASTM A-514) which has a very high yield strength at 100 ksi and is quiet difficult to weld.
From Wikipedia:
Quote:
Usage
A514 steels are used where a weldable, machinable, very high strength steel is required to save weight or meet ultimate strength requirements. It is normally used as a structural steel in building construction, cranes, or other large machines supporting high loads.

In addition, A514 steels are specified by military standards (ETL 18-11) for use as small-arms firing range baffles and deflector plates.
So it's "bulletproof", but not immune to cracking!

Although not the easiest alloy to weld, if it really is A-514, it is intended to be weldable, according to ASTM: ASTM A514 / A514M - 14; Standard Specification for High-Yield-Strength, Quenched and Tempered Alloy Steel Plate, Suitable for Welding
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:52 PM   #45
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Crack is likely as you say a cold crack (hydrogen crack) at the toe of the tack weld and these are usually a result of a lack of pre heat prior to welding. So likely been there since day one and propagated across the bottom flange of the C channel then up the web over a long period of time as a result of the low cycle high stress loading when jacking (minor)combined with the considerable dynamic loads imposed during towing (major).
That makes sense to me, except one detail...
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Originally Posted by Ron in BC View Post
Is it channel? The close-up photo in post #23 looks like it but I thought it would be rectangular tube.
...Or did ETI go from 3" channel to 4" tube?
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Originally Posted by thoer View Post
Aren't all the frames rectangular tubes? My 2010 17B is and all others I've seen have been.
Yes, every Escape that I have seen or for which I have read a description has fundamentally the same frame design, which uses rectangular tubing for the main frame rails and tongue. The raised rear section of frame is 1.5"x3", while the rest is the same size (earlier trailers) or 2"x4" (later trailers).

David's crack propagation scenario still applies to tube, as it would to channel.
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:53 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by Parker View Post
Thinking as I go here, but it seems like there would be more stress on the frame when it's supported by the ball as in towing, since that's a longer lever arm producing a greater moment in the area of the crack. Unless the front jacks were used as a sole source of support (no tongue jack) and this particular side was regularly cranked down tighter, supporting most of the trailer weight forward of the wheels. I'm falling into the camp of it being a metallurgical (or welding) issue, assuming there there wasn't a lot of extra weight added to the tongue while towing.
I agree, although of course we are all just making educated guesses.
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Old 11-10-2015, 01:02 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
That makes sense to me, except one detail...


Yes, every Escape that I have seen or for which I have read a description has fundamentally the same frame design, which uses rectangular tubing for the main frame rails and tongue. The raised rear section of frame is 1.5"x3", while the rest is the same size (earlier trailers) or 2"x4" (later trailers).

David's crack propagation scenario still applies to tube, as it would to channel.
I thought it was "C" channel from the close up of each of the photographs as I couldn't see the opposing web, if it was rectangular tubing. I know my 2014 17B is rectangular tube but I don't know of the various historical builds over the model years.

Regardless of construction material, the point I was trying to make is routine yearly maintenance performed should include a careful inspection of the frame because of the significant dynamic loads imposed to the frame during towing. In my long career working in the engineering discipline as an integrity specialist I have seen many failures which have occurred to components which meet the governing codes and manufacturing specification but were subjected to unforeseen loads. "Crap happens"
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Old 11-10-2015, 02:18 PM   #48
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David - sounds like with your background, any "guesses" you make are going to be educated and experience backed.
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Old 11-10-2015, 10:52 PM   #49
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I thought it was "C" channel from the close up of each of the photographs as I couldn't see the opposing web, if it was rectangular tubing.
I agree that it looks like channel in the photos... I think the consensus is that it won't be. The crack is very open - perhaps it is more open on the inboard side than the outboard side (keeping us from seeing the other edges), which would mean that the frame may not be straight now.... that's something to check during the repair.
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Old 12-01-2015, 04:33 PM   #50
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RWD,
Do you have an update on how you solved the problem?
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