Frameless Window Failure

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

Are you speaking of delamination? This thread had an epoxy repair.

https://www.escapeforum.org/forums/f...dow-15909.html

Yes I saw that convo, but before I even get into the adhesive solution, I was just looking for some guidance on removing it...couldn't quite find that, or the manual that is referenced in that thread.

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

Yes I saw that convo, but before I even get into the adhesive solution, I was just looking for some guidance on removing it...couldn't quite find that, or the manual that is referenced in that thread.

You should find it here:

Hehr Vent Replacement Instructions : This describes how to remove and replace the vent section of the Hehr 6400 windows. (369.9 KB)

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

You should find it here:

Hehr Vent Replacement Instructions : This describes how to remove and replace the vent section of the Hehr 6400 windows. (369.9 KB)

Perfect, thanks!

[TahoeJoe]

Hmmm, that looks more involved than I want to get into in my tiny time frame this week...I think I'll try some VHB tape along the bottom edge (as opposed to MarineWeld which I think would be too rigid for glass applications) and then, after seeing how that looks, perhaps some Lexel along the side edges if I think it needs it. I'll report back on my success or lack thereof...

[Jim Bennett]

My bath window delaminated and I installed the warranty replacement. Easy peasy, about 30 minutes tops.

All other windows have worked great, really enjoying the awning after years of sliders.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

My bath window delaminated and I installed the warranty replacement. Easy peasy, about 30 minutes tops.

All other windows have worked great, really enjoying the awning after years of sliders.

I'm past warranty, and looking at the instructions for removing the existing vent, it seems like it has some potential for setbacks which I want to avoid at all costs a few days before a big trip...maybe I'm wrong about that, but the clincher was the step about drilling out rivets.

[Jim Bennett]

Removing the old window is actually very simple. You remove the inner flange by taking out a few screws. You can then pry the window out. Remove any of the adhesive left behind and install the new window with the opposite procedure.

These windows have a thin foam with adhesive tape on them for sealing which works great.

I did have my wife hold the new window while I positioned it from the inside and set a couple screws in the flange,

I was a bit out of warranty but talked Reace into replacing it. Have you priced the replacement? I can't imagine it is very expensive.

[Civilguy]

In our case the operator channel detached from the inner glass pane.

The window is under a great deal of tension when it is closed as it does not fit the shape of the trailer shell as installed. The awning pane is only relaxed when it's open around 1/4" or more. Otherwise, it's under a great deal of tension at the hinge

I don't think the recall applies to this situation, but I connected with Lippert. They had me send them photos and then the line went dead. I'll have to try getting back to them.

Meanwhile, we are on our second application of duct tape, which is very tacky.

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

Removing the old window is actually very simple. You remove the inner flange by taking out a few screws. You can then pry the window out. Remove any of the adhesive left behind and install the new window with the opposite procedure.

These windows have a thin foam with adhesive tape on them for sealing which works great.

I did have my wife hold the new window while I positioned it from the inside and set a couple screws in the flange,

I was a bit out of warranty but talked Reace into replacing it. Have you priced the replacement? I can't imagine it is very expensive.

That's the right approach for the long term solution, but again I'm trying to be on the road in a few days, so it's gonna be DIY fix-it this week and I want to minimally invasive as possible...

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

That's the right approach for the long term solution, but again I'm trying to be on the road in a few days, so it's gonna be DIY fix-it this week and I want to minimally invasive as possible...

I used duct tape from Mexico to Alberta over a one month span. [emoji16]

[TahoeJoe]

Originally Posted by Jim Bennett

I used duct tape from Mexico to Alberta over a one month span. [emoji16]

That works! I'm gonna aim somewhere in between your replacement solution and your duct-it solution

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

The window is under a great deal of tension when it is closed as it does not fit the shape of the trailer shell as installed. The awning pane is only relaxed when it's open around 1/4" or more. Otherwise, it's under a great deal of tension at the hinge.

I just read this thread from beginning to end and it occurs to me that I don't recall ever seeing the root cause of the bathroom window problems posted in this forum.

I first noticed the problem on our bath window a year or two back when I found the operator channel had separated from the inner pane.

At that time I also observed that the window is under a great deal of tension when it's fully closed. I made a mental note that if I ever replaced the window, I would have to effectively shim out the frame a bit so that the awning would be able to close fully without excessive tension being applied by the hinge at the top and the operator at the bottom.

The upper aluminum hinge is restrained by the frame flanges when the window assembly is first installed such that the awning pane will not fully close because the hinge at the top will not allow it to swing inward far enough.

This causes the operator slide rail channel which is glued to the inner pane to be under excessive tension from the closing mechanism when the window is fully closed.

The adhesives which connect the inner pane to the outer pane, and the inner pane to the operator slide rail channel, are correspondingly under tension from the excessive pull between the operator and the hinge.

So either the hinge and frame are not set up by the manufacturer to allow the window to fully close without excessive tension, or the shape of the shell is distorting the frame and causing the problem.

That's why the duct tape is applied with the window open a bit on our trailer.

[J&B Mitt]

Originally Posted by TahoeJoe

That works! I'm gonna aim somewhere in between your replacement solution and your duct-it solution

Our 'temporary*' fix: we pinched the two panes together by hand then wrapped a couple turns of fiberglass-reinforced strapping tape around them to hold them together. Then covered the strapping tape with some wide black vinyl electrical tape to hide the strapping tape.

*We actually left it like that for more than a year.

[TahoeJoe]

I used some VHB tape yesterday in the bottom gap, and held it closed for a few hours with clamps. Looks good and feels solid! Let's hope it stays that way after bumping down the road a ways. I may decide to add some Lexel on the side seams, but probably not. Here's some before and after pics...

[Civilguy]

So, now I am curious. Have other people here noticed that their windows bind short of closing all the way?

I suspect I may be on my own as far funding this goes, so I will be disassembling the window enough to determine if I can get the hinge to swing a bit further without binding.

If adjusting the hinge doesn't look feasible, I plan to remove and reinstall the whole window in an attempt to get it to close fully without binding.

From there, I figure I can re-adhere the operator slide rail channel to the inner pane easily enough.

[Rockhead]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

In our case the operator channel detached from the inner glass pane.

The window is under a great deal of tension when it is closed as it does not fit the shape of the trailer shell as installed. The awning pane is only relaxed when it's open around 1/4" or more. Otherwise, it's under a great deal of tension at the hinge

I don't think the recall applies to this situation, but I connected with Lippert. They had me send them photos and then the line went dead. I'll have to try getting back to them.

Meanwhile, we are on our second application of duct tape, which is very tacky.

Possible fix would to use double sided 3M trim tape until you get responses from Lippert

[Vermilye]

My Texas Instruments original TI 30 worked for over 40 years before some idiot let the battery corrode, killing it. I guess I needed to check the junk drawer more often. I was never happy with any of the replacement TI 30 series...

[Dave Walter]

edited.

[Jim Bennett]

Originally Posted by Vermilye

My Texas Instruments original TI 30 worked for over 40 years before some idiot let the battery corrode, killing it. I guess I needed to check the junk drawer more often. I was never happy with any of the replacement TI 30 series...

That was my first calculator bought when I first went to post secondary.

Though calculators had come out when in high school, the use of them was not allowed. I still have my slide rule from then. [emoji16]

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

So, now I am curious. Have other people here noticed that their windows bind short of closing all the way?

Nobody?