Frameless window mod to prevent the knob from loosening - Escape Trailer Owners Community

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Old 07-28-2019, 08:53 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Middlesex County, New Jersey
Trailer: 2019 Trailer 21'
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Frameless window knob mod to prevent it from bumping loose

Not satisfied with using a piece of pool noodle to add friction to the window knob to prevent it from getting loose I did a mod today.

The mod uses a quick release pin that goes through three holes cut into the knob and two washers and the pin head rests on the window metal casing/ledge like a door latch so the knob gets locked up in position and cannot turn clockwise anymore.

Here is a very short video I took to show how the mod works.

The first two pictures are the finished mod with the first showing the unlocked position and second in the locked position. The third pic show how the pieces are put together (please note a compression spring that should go between the two washers is missing in this pic).

A few small parts used for each window are:

1. Two 1.5" fender washers with 3/8" center hole or smaller
2. One 1" long (usable rod length) and 1/4" diameter stainless steel quick release pin bought from amazon
3. A small compression spring with inner diameter larger than 0.44" and less than 1" long
4. JB weld epoxy putty (I got the water weld type)

Steps:

I used a 29/64" drill bit I got from Lowe's and enlarged the two fender washers center holes. The knob's black plastic screw sleeve has 0.44" outer diameter so using the 29/64" drill bit will get the washers fit over the sleeve nicely but not loose. That's why I bought the washers with center hole smaller than 0.44" and drilled them to fit rather than buying those with 1/2" hole.

I then drilled the smaller hole for the quick release pin using 1/4" drill bit but needed to widen the hole just a tiny little bit so the quick release pin with the ball can be pushed through with enough catch but not hard. The smaller hole is not centered between the washer's two sides but a little closer to the outside edge. This is done intentionally to line up with an intended drill hole point on the back of the knob (4th pic).

The 5th pic (back of the knob) gives the general idea of where the 1/4" hole on the knob is drilled. It is very important to understand that each window knob's position where it is closed tight (not overtight) can be slightly different, so if you drill the hole on the knob at the same spot like on the picture for all your windows (I have 8 windows) you may get two that feel like perfect fit but the rest may be just shy of feeling tight enough or overly tight. Since the window turning metal stem has 12 cogs/teeth on it so each next position to adjust the knob will turn 30 degrees away and you can't do an adjustment less than 30 degrees. So it's important to mark the hole center on the knob exactly right before drilling.

I took off the window screen and leaned a handheld mirror on the closed window pane and shone a small flash light to help me look for the knob drill spot. I put a small straight piece of cardboard and lay one end on the window casing shoulder and point the other end to the back of the knob so I can see where it touched the knob and used the touch point as my reference mark point. While I was holding the cardboard piece I was turning the knob slightly left and right to feel how tight I want it exactly and then mark that point.

I also needed to check the small hole's alignment between the washer and the drill center point on the knob before I drill the knob to make sure they are perfectly aligned.

I cut a piece of the JB weld about 5/8" long and worked it into a small doughnut and pressed down around the knob screw sleeve. I left out a little bit of opening on top of the small hole section to leave a bit room so I can push away the putty that got into the pin hole space. I aligned the washer and the knob pin holes and pressed the washer down onto the putty and used a small screw driver to spread and shape the putty where needed. The 6th pic shows the putty on the knob before the washer was put down. I wrapped a length of masking tape around the knob to avoid putty smudges on it since it's sticky and annoying to have to clean it. Leaned it the hard way.

After letting it cure for a short time I installed it and tested the fit. It worked perfectly as intended and I am really happy how it turned out. I just did it today so no road test yet but I believe it is an effective design and should really work.

Hope this mod will help others find a good solution to stop the frameless window knob from bumping loose while traveling in your Escape.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mmexport1564354680984.jpg (99.0 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg mmexport1564354717664.jpg (134.9 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg mmexport1564354604337.jpg (82.0 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg mmexport1564354556738.jpg (129.7 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg mmexport1564354466110.jpg (96.8 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg mmexport1564354525124.jpg (125.6 KB, 17 views)
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Old 07-28-2019, 09:34 PM   #2
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: SLO County CA, California
Trailer: 2014 21
Posts: 3,370
Very nice, yet am left to wonder if anyone thinks that there is a design defect that Hehr should be called on to fix?
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Old 10-02-2019, 11:15 AM   #3
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Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado, Colorado
Trailer: Scheduled delivery for 17A - April 2019
Posts: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Very nice, yet am left to wonder if anyone thinks that there is a design defect that Hehr should be called on to fix?
Bumping this thread back to the top. Can someone confirm the brand of thermal/frameless windows that ETI is currently using?

I picked up a 17A this past spring and have been using it dry camping in Colorado, which a lot of times involves washboard dirt roads. While I really like the windows, the fact that they vibrate open while driving is a major PIA for me.

I called parts after my last trip and was told the frameless window used is the Lippert. Can anyone confirm? I want to call the manufacturer to see what they suggest doing, and expressing my displeasure for the current non-locking design.

Thanks!
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