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Old 12-24-2018, 04:33 PM   #31
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FYI, from: https://www.directmaterial.com/knowl...alve-material/


Unfortunately, for all of the good things that brass valves have going for them, there is a drawback. Lead is often added in low levels to harden the alloys and assist in their machinability. Although the addition of lead is minimal – often less than 2% - and the likelihood of contracting lead poisoning extremely rare, the use of brass valves, fitting and piping can be a concern for people who manufacture foods and drinks.
In some cases, lead can leak into the materials being transported. Therefore, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve of brass valves being used. California has gone so far as to eliminate brass materials with lead content higher than 0.25% when they come into contact with a wetted surface.


I also pointed out in an earlier discussion that the stainless steel ball and the brass valve shrink and expand at different rates. I now bring my garden valves inside in the winter after destroying one during a freeze.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:47 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
FYI, from: https://www.directmaterial.com/knowl...alve-material/
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Unfortunately, for all of the good things that brass valves have going for them, there is a drawback. Lead is often added in low levels to harden the alloys and assist in their machinability. Although the addition of lead is minimal – often less than 2% - and the likelihood of contracting lead poisoning extremely rare, the use of brass valves, fitting and piping can be a concern for people who manufacture foods and drinks.
In some cases, lead can leak into the materials being transported. Therefore, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not approve of brass valves being used. California has gone so far as to eliminate brass materials with lead content higher than 0.25% when they come into contact with a wetted surface.
Yes, so it makes sense to buy lead-free brass fittings, including valves. They're readily available.
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Old 12-24-2018, 07:49 PM   #33
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Glenn: You are correct that the valve I used is not lead free. To be completely safe in a potable water application it really should be. I found a lead free version which I will order.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-01...Cock-Lead-Free
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Old 12-27-2018, 05:02 PM   #34
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Hello CoolCampingKid.
Thanks for the tip on fresh water tank valve.Got the Boiler drain angle body, yep, that's what they call it a Home Depot.Removed flimsy plastic one , install the brass one, took almost five minutes.My cost $8.95 Canadian plus tax.Looks good, easy to turn tap 1/4 turn to drain.
Best of the season.
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Old 12-27-2018, 05:53 PM   #35
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This is the lead free valve I ordered thanks to the lesson from Glenn.

https://www.amazon.com/Everflow-Supp...3XT4T8P8X68B0R

Based on other research I did today the existing hot water heater pressure relief valves are not lead free. Suburban has a new part number that is compliant.

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-1612...uburban+161230
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Old 12-27-2018, 06:35 PM   #36
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The main water line coming into my house is 5/8” 100% lead water line
Lead free fittings are not going to have much of a positive affect
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:16 PM   #37
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The main water line coming into my house is 5/8” 100% lead water line
Lead free fittings are not going to have much of a positive affect
I always thought there were laws for water supplies as evidenced by the Detroit fiasco. Here in my town the water company changes out any lead supply to copper, gratis, in accordance with federal law. So you may want to find out how your municipality is handling that issue.
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Old 12-27-2018, 07:54 PM   #38
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I always thought there were laws for water supplies as evidenced by the Detroit fiasco. Here in my town the water company changes out any lead supply to copper, gratis, in accordance with federal law. So you may want to find out how your municipality is handling that issue.
We recently sold our home and the lead piping passed inspection
The water lines into the house are buried 8 ft in the ground and the mains in the street are 10 ft in the ground ( Below the frost line )
The cost to replace all the water piping in the city would be astronomical
The lead over years of use is coated with a layer of lime so a 5/8 “ ID pipe actually has an I/D of 3/8” or less
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Old 12-28-2018, 09:34 AM   #39
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We recently sold our home and the lead piping passed inspection
The water lines into the house are buried 8 ft in the ground and the mains in the street are 10 ft in the ground ( Below the frost line )
The cost to replace all the water piping in the city would be astronomical
The lead over years of use is coated with a layer of lime so a 5/8 “ ID pipe actually has an I/D of 3/8” or less
Depending on water chemistry the most common way to deal with lead is to increase the pH to around 7.5, at this pH the lead is not as easily dissolved by the incoming water. Another method is to raise the alkalinity of the water (read hardness...not technically true but close enough) and finally you can add a chemical to line the pipes. The alkalinity and lining chemical methods are a physical barrier method. This is what you have with the calcium in your pipes. There are a couple of problems. 1. not all pipes want a liner...think heat exchangers in your boiler. Lining = less efficient. 2. this method does not protect you from pre lead free fixtures. A valve works by rubbing against a seat to seal off, this rubs off the coating and the valve can erode and add to the lead.

The problem in Flint Michigan had a number of causes including: 1. The city decided to change sources and did not do any treatment to make the water less aggressive thus allowing it to dissolve the lead in the pipes. 2. Many cities in the US, including Flint, used lead in service lines(from the main to the house) and/or the gooseneck connection of the service to the main in the street.


Lead service lines are relatively easy to replace by digging up the curb stop(little round access cover near the main at each home) and opening up the foundation in the house. You attach the new line to the old and pull the old out and the new in. Hook up the new and you are in business.


Typically the lines in the street are not lead, but replacing all the service lines and/or goosenecks in a city is a big job and big dollars. The best things you can do to reduce lead in your home are 1.to replace old lead containing faucets with new lead free faucets and 2.let the water run until cold, new water from the street has not been sitting in lead pipes and fixtures dissolving the lead. Lead in drinking water in the majority of the cases is from lead pipes, soldier containing lead and fixtures containing lead, it is not typically from the drinking water source or the mains in the street.


The US has a big problem with aging water and wastewater infrastructure that will take billions to fix....get ready to pay more!

So to bring it back to the thread....always use lead free brass in your camper!
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Old 12-29-2018, 12:46 PM   #40
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Very nice, Dave! I’ve had problems in the past when threading copper/brass and PVC together. How many wraps of teflon tape did you use for a tight seal?
Steve: Put the lead free version on today. Four wraps of Teflon tape. Don’t want to overtighten because the valve bottoms out on a ridge.
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