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Old 10-30-2014, 05:04 PM   #1
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Fridge

Products - Dometic

You figure it out.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:47 PM   #2
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Subnormal climate class seems to be the norm.
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:03 PM   #3
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Just as a reminder...

SN (Subnormal) from +10C to +32C

N (Normal) from + 16 C to + 32 C

ST (Subtropical) from + 18 C to + 38 C

T (Tropical) from + 18 C to + 43 C


And for the ultimate in all weather camping (from a Bosch advertisement):
Climate class SN-T (suitable for ambient temperatures between 10 and 43C)

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Old 10-30-2014, 07:56 PM   #4
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"Cooling performance is equivalent to climate class SN when installed according to our instructions."

I recommend you read the ventilation section of the installation manual and compare your past (or future) installation to that.

I pulled my refrigerator and read through the recommended installation. With all the problems I hoped to find everything 'by the book' ... But it's not in a number of ways.

It appears to me that a significant issue is that they refer to a LS300 lower vent. The vent installed is about 2" less high, by my computations could not provide the required air flow, and doesn't appear to be a Dometic vent. A LS300 would have a screen and a winter cover.

"The ventilation grilles must have an open cross-section of at least 400 cm2. This is achieved by using the Dometic LS300 absorber ventilation and air extraction system which has been tested and approved for this purpose."

The installation manual is very specific about the clearances including the requirement for a baffle. My installation has a baffle and when I reinstall the refer I will double check that.

I sent a message to Reace requesting the make and model of the vent but haven't received a reply yet.

Mel
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:48 PM   #5
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Well if Dometic can get their act together and the fridge cooling properly, I would love a 2 door unit.

Doug
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Old 10-30-2014, 09:55 PM   #6
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Interesting, it says gas or 120v but draws a lot on 12v?
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Old 10-30-2014, 10:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
Interesting, it says gas or 120v but draws a lot on 12v?
Yeah, the page link is for the 230v (EU) model, but there is a 120v equivalent. 3.2 amps draw on 12v doesn't seem out of the ordinary.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbryan4 View Post
3.2 amps draw on 12v doesn't seem out of the ordinary.
That's not a current draw of 3.2 amps, it is
Quote:
Energy consumption 12V @amb temp 25C (Ah/24h) 3.2
... which means 3.2 amp-hour consumption over a 24-hour period, or 0.13 amps (130 mA) average... just enough to run the electronics.

The other 12-volt spec is
Quote:
Max input 12V (W) 170
... so at peak it can use 170 watts or over 14 amps. From this spec, the brochure available from the same web page, and the manual, this appears to be a three-way unit (capable of cooling on your choice of AC, DC, and propane power); the 3.2Ah/day number would be just for the controls, not cooling on DC power. 170 watts for the DC heating element is reasonable for this size of refrigerator; the AC heating element for this model is 190 watts. The 22 grams/hour propane burn rate corresponds to about 280 watts, but the propane heater won't be perfectly efficient or transfer the heat to the cooling unit as effectively as the electric heaters, so again the 170 watts (14 amps) seems reasonable.
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Old 10-31-2014, 12:57 AM   #9
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Very interesting about the vent requirements. Nothing else matters if the airflow across those cooling fins is so constrained the heat can't be removed faster than the heat comes out of the fridge/freezer fins.
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Old 10-31-2014, 07:08 AM   #10
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So, is the consensus this is a better model than our existing one we have been trouble shooting?
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