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Old 06-13-2016, 03:20 PM   #21
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Hi: float5... For a fast defrost we used a blow dryer when plugged in. Just make sure your drain cup is empty so the defrost water can get into it rapidly. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Great idea, Alf! Where is the drain cup? We have the two-door which you must have.
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:52 PM   #22
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fridge

When using the hair dryer I pack towels in to catch the water.
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:53 PM   #23
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With the RML, we had sufficient luck with the shelf brackets. But as observed, the RMD has the darned plastic shelves and the shelf brackets won't work with them. I'm convinced those plastic shelves are going to break very quickly anyways. I'm thinking of replacing them with wire shelves bodged from something purchased from home depot.

The fridge guard looks interesting, but I don't see that it helps if you don't have your shelves full -- stuff can still rattle around and fall over.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:19 PM   #24
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With the RML, we had sufficient luck with the shelf brackets. But as observed, the RMD has the darned plastic shelves and the shelf brackets won't work with them. I'm convinced those plastic shelves are going to break very quickly anyways. I'm thinking of replacing them with wire shelves bodged from something purchased from home depot.

The fridge guard looks interesting, but I don't see that it helps if you don't have your shelves full -- stuff can still rattle around and fall over.
I have always felt the RMD in our 5.0TA needed another shelf between the top shelf and the middle shelf to cut the 14" middle shelf height down to 7" which would better suit our needs. There is an empty slot at the 7" mark made to take another shelf so I ordered one thru Camping World that only took 2.5 months to ship to us. (It was delivered while we were on our trip.) We went thru Camping World because I could never get Dometic to answer their spare parts phone. However, within 200 miles of home last Thursday after being out for six weeks, the infamously rough I-5 in the San Joaquin Valley apparently caused the middle shelf to crack down the middle from the weight we had stacked in that large cavity. So I will be back to ordering another shelf (we want them all to match), and my better half is trying to figure out whether the cracked shelf can be glued or braced so we can at least keep it for a spare.

Cliff and Betty
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:26 PM   #25
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Great idea, Alf! Where is the drain cup? We have the two-door which you must have.
Hi: float5... No; I'm a diehard RML8555 single door with removable freezer guy!!! I have lowered the thermistor off the metal fins, plugged the hole in the bottom of the door, and try to keep some water in the drain cup, located behind the fridge box, inside the exterior lower vent... clipped to the bottom black fridge pipe.
I find that the sloped roof on the 5.0TA helps the up draft chimney effect on all but the most still days and we limit the MaxxFan exhausting to keep the air from being sucked out of the fridge. I am determined to make it work!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:07 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by JMTHKR View Post
I have always felt the RMD in our 5.0TA needed another shelf between the top shelf and the middle shelf to cut the 14" middle shelf height down to 7" which would better suit our needs. There is an empty slot at the 7" mark made to take another shelf so I ordered one thru Camping World that only took 2.5 months to ship to us. (It was delivered while we were on our trip.) We went thru Camping World because I could never get Dometic to answer their spare parts phone. However, within 200 miles of home last Thursday after being out for six weeks, the infamously rough I-5 in the San Joaquin Valley apparently caused the middle shelf to crack down the middle from the weight we had stacked in that large cavity. So I will be back to ordering another shelf (we want them all to match), and my better half is trying to figure out whether the cracked shelf can be glued or braced so we can at least keep it for a spare.

Cliff and Betty
I think the RMD plastic shelves are kinda flimsy. When I get ours made from ABS I'll post a pic. Need something fairly sturdy to hold a half gallon of milk and a 6 pack!
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:12 PM   #27
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I think the RMD plastic shelves are kinda flimsy. When I get ours made from ABS I'll post a pic. Need something fairly sturdy to hold a half gallon of milk and a 6 pack!
Does this mean you might be offering them in the future?
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:24 PM   #28
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Does this mean you might be offering them in the future?
Only if they work! I need to talk with my CNC guy about drilling a bunch of air circulation holes. Solid shelf would not be good for cooling.
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Old 06-14-2016, 01:05 AM   #29
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I like the idea of putting stuff in smaller containers, such as boxes and what-not. We have a Container Store a few miles from here and I'm there, oh, more than once in a while.
Container Store is Great, we bought a few plastic containers that are now drawers in our fridge
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:02 AM   #30
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I use the vinyl fridge guard. Works great for keeping item in and also helps keep the fridge cooler as you are only usually opening one section at a time.

I also noticed the plastic guards in the first link are for wire shelves. Don't know what year you have, but my shelves are plastic.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:15 AM   #31
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I also noticed the plastic guards in the first link are for wire shelves. Don't know what year you have, but my shelves are plastic.
The RML8555 had the wire shelves. The RMD uses the plastic.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:40 AM   #32
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I used this set up which kept things contained and helped to keep things cool...https://smile.amazon.com/Christars-R...igerator+guard
Jim,

Did you have to mount the panels flush with the metal shelves in order to get the door to close (assuming you left the door trays in place)? Also, did you drill holes in the side walls to secure the bars in place? Thanks!

Rich
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Old 06-14-2016, 01:17 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
Hi: float5... try to keep some water in the drain cup, located behind the fridge box, inside the exterior lower vent... clipped to the bottom black fridge pipe.
I find that the sloped roof on the 5.0TA helps the up draft chimney effect on all but the most still days and we limit the MaxxFan exhausting to keep the air from being sucked out of the fridge. I am determined to make it work!!! Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Found the plastic cup and it was full so emptied it. Guess it usually drains through that hole down there. For anyone doing this, the metal equipment there is hot, so be careful.
Thanks, Alf!! Have not used the dryer yet but will.
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Old 06-14-2016, 01:48 PM   #34
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Found the plastic cup and it was full so emptied it. Guess it usually drains through that hole down there. For anyone doing this, the metal equipment there is hot, so be careful.
Thanks, Alf!! Have not used the dryer yet but will.
Hi: float5... The hole in the floor inside the fridge vent is for propane venting I think. Since it's heavier than air propane will fall out if there is a leak behind the fridge. Any water on that floor should evaporate like it will out of the cup. The cup on our single door fridge has a slot in the corner to hold the clear tube in it!!!
I'm still looking for some kind of "P" trap for the end of the water pipe, but it's so tiny. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:41 PM   #35
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Jim,

Did you have to mount the panels flush with the metal shelves in order to get the door to close (assuming you left the door trays in place)? Also, did you drill holes in the side walls to secure the bars in place? Thanks!

Rich
The kit came with some velcro tabs with sticky on one side, you fold them in half and cut a "V" at the bend and open you have a small opening. You apply the sticky side inside the refer where you want to locate the steel rods and the velcro keeps the rods in place.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:26 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by cpaharley2008 View Post
The kit came with some velcro tabs with sticky on one side, you fold them in half and cut a "V" at the bend and open you have a small opening. You apply the sticky side inside the refer where you want to locate the steel rods and the velcro keeps the rods in place.
Thanks. What about having to mount them flush with the shelves to allow for clearance for the door shelves?
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:29 PM   #37
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You want it as far back as possible to keep things on the shelves, so yes position the bars which also have velcro on them to hold the panels in place as far back to touch the shelf, should not have any clearance issues.
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:48 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by escape artist View Post
Hi: float5... The hole in the floor inside the fridge vent is for propane venting I think. Since it's heavier than air propane will fall out if there is a leak behind the fridge. Any water on that floor should evaporate like it will out of the cup. The cup on our single door fridge has a slot in the corner to hold the clear tube in it!!!
I'm still looking for some kind of "P" trap for the end of the water pipe, but it's so tiny. Alf
escape artist N.S. of Lake Erie
Alf, freezer working great again!! I was miffed at it until I saw all of that frost!
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