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Old 05-09-2015, 08:02 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeonW View Post
My understanding is that you still get a charge to the batteries, even with the battery disconnect in the down position
That is what happens with my 17B.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:11 AM   #22
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With the battery switch off, only the solar is going to the batteries, nothing else. This assumes you are not connected to 120v. The purpose of the battery switch is to disconnect the batteries from any phantom drain while in storage. If you do not have solar then you will not have any charge going to the battery with the switch off. Thus it is important to leave the switch on.
What I'm not sure is if you turn the switch to off, does it disconnect any drain from your tow vehicle, if left hooked up? Someone may have to test that scenario.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:38 AM   #23
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Just a thought: When I was having trouble getting my frig propane to light, it turned out that the igniter was touching something and not getting a good spark. I bent it back a tad and problem solved.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:33 AM   #24
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Quick question in this discussion. My new 21 has twin 6 volt batteries with the new 150 watt Samplex solar panel and controller set up as well as the 1500 watt inverter. If the 21 is not hooked up to shore power and the battery disconnect is turned off, does the solar panel still provide charge to the batteries? Thank you in advance!

Your batteries will still charge from the solar system with the battery disconnect switch engaged. It just turns off 12v output.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:36 AM   #25
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Just a thought: When I was having trouble getting my frig propane to light, it turned out that the igniter was touching something and not getting a good spark. I bent it back a tad and problem solved.

Yes, the piezo being out of position can cause an ignition issue. But, the issue here was getting the fridge control panel to turn on at all.
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:41 PM   #26
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My switch was on . I've never turned it off.
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Old 05-09-2015, 01:00 PM   #27
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My switch was on . I've never turned it off.
So it's working now but the battery disconnect wasn't on. Could have been a short, but based on your previous description of the problem, I would suspect that the batteries were low, because the control panel lights flickered then turned off. Later, it powered on.

If it happens again, I'd check the DC connections on the back of the fridge. It's really easy to use a cheap voltmeter to determine if there is DC power. If there isn't any, I would suspect a blown fuse or a dicey connection. If there is low voltage, I would suspect the batteries are low.

Anyway, glad you're up and running.
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Old 05-09-2015, 01:12 PM   #28
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Can I get some clarification about the need to turn the battery switch on when connected to shore power in order to supply 12v to the refrigerator?
The need is just to get 12V power to the refrigerator. The switch would need to be on if that power is coming from the battery.
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Isn't that what the converter does?
Yes, the converter produces 12V - instead of using power from the battery - when shore power is available.

Should you need to turn the battery disconnect switch on so that 12V power gets from the converter to the refrigerator? Not if the switch is just a battery disconnect, but it depends on the details of just where that switch is in the electrical system.

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The purpose of the battery switch is to disconnect the batteries from any phantom drain while in storage.
Absolutely. If anything is to be operated on 12 volts, that's not normally the time to use the disconnect switch.
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Thus it is important to leave the switch on.
I agree. Whether it is needed for the refrigerator or not, the battery disconnect switch should be on when you have shore power so the battery gets charged.
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Old 05-09-2015, 01:14 PM   #29
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A question for you Fox Hunt, is Lark stored under cover or in the shade? If so it's possible the solar panels aren't getting enough sun light to keep your batteries charged up enough to get things going and plugging in Lark gave them the life they needed.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:42 PM   #30
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What is the pietso. We are camping at golden ears and our fridge won't ignite. It tries but then we get a warning light. Our trailer is 2 days old and a 2015 propane tanks are both full. Help!!!!!
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:02 PM   #31
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What is the pietso. We are camping at golden ears and our fridge won't ignite. It tries but then we get a warning light. Our trailer is 2 days old and a 2015 propane tanks are both full. Help!!!!!
I think you mean piezo not pietso . The piezo igniter provides the spark to ignite the propane when your refrigerator is set to gas.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:26 PM   #32
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I would open the outside access door to the refrigerator, it is the one with two black plastic nuts that you rotate 1/4 turn and then pull back the door and lift up. Play with it awhile as I find the door frustrating. Once it is off, have someone start the refrigerator from the inside and watch for any sparking. If you have spark it may be gas supply. Be sure both propane tanks are turned on. There is a direction arrow on the tank knob. In a pinch plug into shore power and run off electric. It should automatically sense the 110 voltage when shore power is applied and have switched over when you attempt to start.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:27 PM   #33
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Thank you. We don't have shore power.
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Old 05-09-2015, 09:51 PM   #34
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Make absolutely certain that your battery disconnect switch is not engaged, i.e., that you have 12V power. Even using propane, the refer must have 12V power available. And even if your propane tanks are full, make certain that the valves are open.
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:11 PM   #35
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Is this the first time you've used the fridge? Was it run at the factory? If it's brand new and not been operated before it can take a short amount of time for the gas to get there.

Has the furnace been run? If not, try it and it will help purge the line if it's a case of first use.

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Old 05-09-2015, 10:21 PM   #36
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I first light a stove burner to ensure propane has had a chance to flow through the lines. Then I light my fridge, following the instructions on the fridge.
Don't know what fridge you have so, that's all I can offer.
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:26 PM   #37
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I believe Ron is on the right track. You could be experiencing some sort of an air lock. I turn on my stove burners and fire the furnace the first thing after the propane hasn't been used for a while. Then hold the button down on the fridge starter and let it click for as long as a couple of minutes. Propane is kind of strange when it comes to outside temperatures, elevations, humidity etc. Air locks are like iffy wiring grounds, they will mess with your logic at times.
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Old 05-09-2015, 10:59 PM   #38
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I believe Ron is on the right track. You could be experiencing some sort of an air lock. I turn on my stove burners and fire the furnace the first thing after the propane hasn't been used for a while. Then hold the button down on the fridge starter and let it click for as long as a couple of minutes. Propane is kind of strange when it comes to outside temperatures, elevations, humidity etc. Air locks are like iffy wiring grounds, they will mess with your logic at times.
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Although it may not be the cause here, I agree. We had an issue the 2nd day running the fridge on propane, but then I checked if I could light the stove. After running the burner for several seconds, then watching the flame sputter a bit before steadying, I assumed the gas lines were purged. When switching again to propane on the fridge, it fired right up. No problems since.
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:31 AM   #39
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Not that it matters, but an electronically controlled refrigerator without a pilot light doesn't actually have a piezo ignitor. A piezo system has a pushbutton that snaps when you push it, making an electrical spark without outside power; in contrast, the electronic ignition system (usually called direct spark ignition or DSI especially when used in water heaters) makes a spark like a spark plug in an engine.

The electrode that might be out of place is a metal tip - the high voltage wire is attached to it, so when the ignition circuit is turned on a spark (which you can hear if you listen closely) jumps between that electrode an part of the burner assembly, lighting up the propane. As Pau mentioned, you should be able to see the sparking when the refrigerator attempts to turn on the burner.

Quote:
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I first light a stove burner to ensure propane has had a chance to flow through the lines. Then I light my fridge, following the instructions on the fridge.
I do this when I have run out of propane and refilled, to purge the lines and ensure that the appliances are getting propane. It also confirms that there is propane... so (for instance) the tank valve is open.
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Old 05-10-2015, 06:30 PM   #40
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Thank you. We will try some of your suggestions. Not much cell service at the campground.
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