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Old 09-15-2016, 06:14 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Art M. View Post
I looked again at both hasps. The erosion of the hasp is symmetrical, and occurs on both hasps, so your suggestion of wear from a swinging lock is probably correct. Given that wear, a diagonal cutter could have probably gone through the remaining metal with little or no sound.
I had only considered possible locks earlier, and not looked at the hasp wear in detail. The completely failed hasp loop looks like all wear and not a cut to me, but that's just a guess from a photo.

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I find it hard to believe that the broken hasp could have had one side bent about 90 deg. by just a swinging padlock, with no human intervention with a pliers or other tool. However, a possibility that I can't rule out, is that on a sharp turn the back corner of our Jeep Grand Cherokee can hit the box near the lock (I've done that at least once) – when I return it to the storage yard, I may try a sharp turn with Kathy watching to see where it would hit and to keep me from actually hitting, to see if that could have bent the hasp.
I think hitting the lock after the hasp loop was almost worn through is a reasonable possible explanation.

When checking for clearance, keep in mind that there is a tightest angle you can get to in forward motion (just crank the tug wheel all the way over and slowly drive forward until it nearly touches or it stops getting tighter), but you can always fully jackknife in reverse.

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The Master Padlocks weigh only 1.3 oz, each, and have a small hardened steel shackle of about 5/32" diameter. But this is apparently sufficient to nearly wear through the hasp over about 12,000 miles. It looks like we have to go from a small to a tiny lock, or no lock.
A tiny lock makes sense to me. The shackle of even a quite small lock would be more difficult to saw through than the hasp loop, so the hasp is still the weak link. A very small lock is really easy to snip with bolt cutters, but if someone is prowling around your trailer with bolt cutters, they're probably getting into your storage box regardless of your lock choice.
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:30 PM   #32
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We'll try unlocked while traveling, so we don't wear out the remains of the passenger side hasp. We'll lock that side in camp, when the box contains hitch parts plus a pair of strap-on McKesh mirrors, that I forgot to list in the previous comments, plus a bunch of other low-value stuff. This way, we can postpone obtaining a new set of latches from Escape.

We just checked clearance between the Jeep and the box. I began the tightest U-Turn I could, and was surprised to complete it in the street in front of our house. We were at least 2-3" clear of contact between the vehicles, so it seems unlikely that we broke off a padlock that way. We rarely back up at rest stops or refueling stations (calling it a gas station doesn't make sense with a diesel), so were unlikely to achieve more extreme jack-knife angles.
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:40 PM   #33
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Using my highly developed investigatory skills, along with a little BS thrown in, I have determined that this in fact was an attempted break-in.

The normal wear marks would only be on the top of the hole in the hasp, with just scuffs on the side parts at best. You can clearly see these marks just behind the suspected cut marks, on both hasps.

Where the one hasp is completely severed, there are definite angle "pinch" marks indicating being cut.

On the other one, the point where it is just about through the hasp, is on an angle forward, whereas the hasp would generally hang straight down. This looks like someone with not to sharp of cutters did not make quite make the cut through.

I think the thief was likely scared off as Art finished his yummy lunch and let out a loud fart. The thief heard this thinking it was the growl of a big dog, and headed for the hills.

Case closed!
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Old 09-15-2016, 07:50 PM   #34
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We'll try unlocked while traveling, so we don't wear out the remains of the passenger side hasp. We'll lock that side in camp, when the box contains hitch parts plus a pair of strap-on McKesh mirrors, that I forgot to list in the previous comments, plus a bunch of other low-value stuff. This way, we can postpone obtaining a new set of latches from Escape.
For what it's worth, when our hasp (staple) was broken, we wired it shut while underway. (I think we used some heavy twist ties that had been part of the packaging on a water hose.) Also, the locks we have used (before and now) are for keeping the hasp fastened, rather than keeping someone out.

My earlier comment about our lock being smaller than yours was not a criticism of your lock size; it was just to point out that even a smaller lock damaged (broke) the staple on our hasp - in our case because of ongoing vibration of the box.

And, when we finally decided we had nailed down all of the causes (effects?) of our box vibration, we contacted ETI and they sent us replacement hasps. (If we lived closer to Chilliwack, we'd've let them troubleshoot the situation; but from Texas we knew our best bet was to work on it ourselves.)
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Old 09-15-2016, 10:57 PM   #35
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Case closed!
Who needs the cops when we have a forum member gifted with such amazing deductive powers?
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Old 09-15-2016, 11:08 PM   #36
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Who needs the cops when we have a forum member gifted with such amazing deductive powers?
Did you mean imaginary powers?
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:35 AM   #37
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If you want to avoid the swinging-padlock issue, and don't need a highly secure lock, you might find a locking hasp to fit.


Another option to the standard hasp might be a locking version of the external latch used on tilting truck hoods and Jeep hoods.
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Old 09-16-2016, 08:15 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
If you want to avoid the swinging-padlock issue, and don't need a highly secure lock, you might find a locking hasp to fit.


Another option to the standard hasp might be a locking version of the external latch used on tilting truck hoods and Jeep hoods.
The problem with this type of hasp is that it does not have the adjustable cam action to get the lid to fit snugly. The front boxes are not built so precisely that initial and subsequent hasp adjustments wouldn't be required.
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:38 PM   #39
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The problem with this type of hasp is that it does not have the adjustable cam action to get the lid to fit snugly.
Good point.
I was thinking of a plain hasp, and the padlock provision is like a plain hasp, but the Escape latches are the adjustable pull-down type, as they should be. The truck/Jeep hood latches work this way, too; they are normally adjustable, and usually have coil springs or rubber springing elements as well.
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Old 09-16-2016, 10:01 PM   #40
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This my thinking, on all accounts.


Same here!
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