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Old 07-09-2015, 10:46 PM   #11
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I took it that the OP blew out the lines and still had a cracked valve twice. ETI had only gIven two sets of directions and one had anti-freeze which will get that valve --- but unfortunately the directions were wrong --- and the other was blowing out the lines which apparently did not.

The anti-freeze directions did not say to pump through from city water to get that valve. Maybe that is what the OP missed and they did use anti-freeze.
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Old 07-09-2015, 10:53 PM   #12
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I know you don't want to use the antifreeze, but would flushing with antifreeze then blowing it out right after be acceptable.
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:44 PM   #13
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As I recall, the toilet manufacturer changed the valve design a few years ago, and ETI had to change their winterizing procedure to require anti-freeze. Before this change, the ETI winterizing instructions allowed either, but with this change, ETI mailed out a revised procedure that only allowed for the use of anti-freeze.

The issue is that the new toilet valve doesn't get properly cleared, no matter what you do, with blowing out the lines alone.

I'm not sure when this change happened, so I don't know if rvomaha's 2012 might be affected. For my 2013, I received an email with the updated procedure.

For what it's worth, my procedure is to blow out the lines first, then use anti-freeze with the winterizing kit (that is, an extra line goes from between the fresh tank and the pump to a bottle -- I never pour antifreeze into my fresh tank). It hadn't occurred to me to blow out the lines again afterwards -- I'll do that next winter. Two winters now, and there's no discernable taste to our water (but then we're using well water, which has a pretty strong taste to begin with).
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Old 07-10-2015, 12:09 AM   #14
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We also have never put anti-freeze into the fresh water tank.

We saw the directions for the newer situation with no low-point drain and, if we use anti-freeze, we see no reason why one would also blow out the lines. Anti-freeze is easy and fast and it looks as if that covers it, from what we can tell.
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Old 07-10-2015, 12:21 AM   #15
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Some folks mention taste left in the pipes. While I can't taste it after flushing with fresh a few times it did turn my old whitish pipes pink. That's when I started blowing it out after running in the pink. Also had the in wall shower control (pre Escape) crack over the winter while filled with antifreeze. The stuff turns to slush as opposed to freezing solid. Not supposed to expand but I have no other way of explaining the crack in the control. Blowing it out afterwards does no damage so I'm good with that route.
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Old 07-10-2015, 12:25 AM   #16
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Ditto. No anti-freeze in the fresh water tank.
I use a manual pump fill the lines with anti-freeze through the city water inlet.
And, I leave it there until spring.
I bought a 6 gal. compressor to blow out the lines, but was never confident that it was totally done. Using anti-freeze, I know the lines are full when the pink stuff comes out of each tap.
Maybe it's me, but I don't taste any residue after flushing the lines.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:15 PM   #17
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I disconnect the toilet, unscrew it from the floor, take the toilet outside and shake it upside down which gets rid of the water that was left. It has not broken since starting doing this.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbaglo View Post
Ditto. No anti-freeze in the fresh water tank.
I use a manual pump fill the lines with anti-freeze through the city water inlet.
And, I leave it there until spring.
I bought a 6 gal. compressor to blow out the lines, but was never confident that it was totally done. Using anti-freeze, I know the lines are full when the pink stuff comes out of each tap.
Maybe it's me, but I don't taste any residue after flushing the lines.
Ditto...after having to replace the toilet valve once.....
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Old 07-10-2015, 08:49 PM   #19
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One issue some may be having with "blowing out the water lines" is the compressor or air supply. To properly blow out the water lines a large volume of air is needed at a lower pressure, a small compressor and tank may produce 120 psi or more but at a minimal or even fractional cfm. The result is this low volume will not force the water out, all that will happen is the water will be displaced in the lines enough to allow the low volume of air to pass, then when the air stops the water will settle back into the low areas. Large compressors are expensive so without one the antifreeze method is probably the best. I personally use a 7HP compressor with a 60 gal tank and the adapter I use is a full 1/2" line into the street water inlet with the pressure set at 40 psi.
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Old 07-10-2015, 09:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ian G View Post
One issue some may be having with "blowing out the water lines" is the compressor or air supply. To properly blow out the water lines a large volume of air is needed at a lower pressure, a small compressor and tank may produce 120 psi or more but at a minimal or even fractional cfm. The result is this low volume will not force the water out, all that will happen is the water will be displaces in the lines enough to allow the low volume of air to pass, then when the air stops the water will settle back into the low areas. Large compressors are expensive so without one the antifreeze method is probably the best. I personally use a 7HP compressor with a 60 gal tank and the adapter I use is a full 1/2" line into the street water inlet with the pressure set at 40 psi.
Same here, but just a 30 tank. Worked fine for 30+ years
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