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Old 07-10-2015, 09:09 PM   #21
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Hummm, I've heard about busted toilet valves. I've owned a 1988 Scamp for more than a dozen years and it has a flushy. I've blown out the lines (dislike anti-freeze), then propped open the valve on the toilet (wintering over) and have never lost the valve... wonder if I can do the same on Ten Forward? Did it last year... the valve didn't break. Hummmm.
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:50 PM   #22
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Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful and prompt responses. Having weighed the different options, we decided to try the compressed air method for next winter. It seems like that should work if we open one valve at a time. You'll hear from us again in the spring if this method fails. We're headed for 96F in Omaha tomorrow, so freezing is not an issue at this time. :-)
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:10 AM   #23
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I have an 8 gallon Kawasaki air compressor. Do you think the air volume will be sufficient to clear the water lines?

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Old 07-12-2015, 09:10 AM   #24
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If you are releasing the air through the trailer water system through a tire chuck the no it will not be enough, Any restriction in the air line will reduce volume, you can buy adapters that don't restrict the airflow, I made this one which I find very easy to use, instructions pn how I made it here Proud Canadian
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Old 07-12-2015, 10:27 AM   #25
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As I understand it, the compressor need to provide a constant 30-40 psi for as long as it takes you to clear the lines, the tank works as a buffer. You can test it out if you come up with a valve assm something like Ian has to connect the hose to the fresh water inlet. Adjust the compressor output to 30-40 psi and see how long it'll run before dropping under 30. Don't need the valve hooked to the trailer to test it. The time it takes is how long you have to blow out the lines. If needed you could probably blow out one faucet, stop and let the tank fill back up, then on to the next spigot.
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:05 AM   #26
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The lower regulated compressor pressure (psi) results in higher volume of air (cfm).
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Old 07-12-2015, 11:16 AM   #27
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I will be putting together a valve assembly according to Ian's instructions. I can see how it would allow for greater air flow, and control. Also I like that there is a screw on attachment. Thanks Ian and Bob.

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Old 07-12-2015, 02:11 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
As I understand it, the compressor need to provide a constant 30-40 psi for as long as it takes you to clear the lines, the tank works as a buffer.
I agree.

Quote:
Originally Posted by padlin View Post
You can test it out if you come up with a valve assm something like Ian has to connect the hose to the fresh water inlet. Adjust the compressor output to 30-40 psi and see how long it'll run before dropping under 30. Don't need the valve hooked to the trailer to test it. The time it takes is how long you have to blow out the lines.
But without the trailer plumbing attached the airflow (for any given regulated pressure) will be much greater than with the resistance of the plumbing, so the tank capacity will be exhausted much sooner than it would be while actually blowing out the trailer.

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If needed you could probably blow out one faucet, stop and let the tank fill back up, then on to the next spigot.
I agree.
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:25 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Ian G View Post
... I made this one which I find very easy to use, instructions pn how I made it here Proud Canadian
Well-built, as is everything from Ian, but with the usual horizontal city water inlet this whole rig is standing straight out the from the trailer, with an air hose hanging from it, which puts a lot of stress on the inlet and makes it harder to get the inlet garden hose connection to seal.

I suggest incorporating an elbow in place of one of the straight elements, so it hangs down instead of standing out - the most obvious would be a 1/4″ MPT elbow instead of the nipple. An alternative is to use the straight adapter with a 90-degree garden hose elbow, but that's more parts.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:00 PM   #30
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Amazon.com: Camco 36143 Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect: Automotive
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