Frozen toilet valve

[Donna D.]

Hummm, I've heard about busted toilet valves. I've owned a 1988 Scamp for more than a dozen years and it has a flushy. I've blown out the lines (dislike anti-freeze), then propped open the valve on the toilet (wintering over) and have never lost the valve... wonder if I can do the same on Ten Forward? Did it last year... the valve didn't break. Hummmm.

[rvomaha]

Thanks to everyone for the thoughtful and prompt responses. Having weighed the different options, we decided to try the compressed air method for next winter. It seems like that should work if we open one valve at a time. You'll hear from us again in the spring if this method fails. We're headed for 96F in Omaha tomorrow, so freezing is not an issue at this time. :-)

[Bobbito]

I have an 8 gallon Kawasaki air compressor. Do you think the air volume will be sufficient to clear the water lines?

Bob K

[Ian G]

If you are releasing the air through the trailer water system through a tire chuck the no it will not be enough, Any restriction in the air line will reduce volume, you can buy adapters that don't restrict the airflow, I made this one which I find very easy to use, instructions pn how I made it here Proud Canadian

[padlin]

Bob
As I understand it, the compressor need to provide a constant 30-40 psi for as long as it takes you to clear the lines, the tank works as a buffer. You can test it out if you come up with a valve assm something like Ian has to connect the hose to the fresh water inlet. Adjust the compressor output to 30-40 psi and see how long it'll run before dropping under 30. Don't need the valve hooked to the trailer to test it. The time it takes is how long you have to blow out the lines. If needed you could probably blow out one faucet, stop and let the tank fill back up, then on to the next spigot.

[Jubal]

The lower regulated compressor pressure (psi) results in higher volume of air (cfm).

[Bobbito]

I will be putting together a valve assembly according to Ian's instructions. I can see how it would allow for greater air flow, and control. Also I like that there is a screw on attachment. Thanks Ian and Bob.

Bob K

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by padlin

As I understand it, the compressor need to provide a constant 30-40 psi for as long as it takes you to clear the lines, the tank works as a buffer.

I agree.

Originally Posted by padlin

You can test it out if you come up with a valve assm something like Ian has to connect the hose to the fresh water inlet. Adjust the compressor output to 30-40 psi and see how long it'll run before dropping under 30. Don't need the valve hooked to the trailer to test it. The time it takes is how long you have to blow out the lines.

But without the trailer plumbing attached the airflow (for any given regulated pressure) will be much greater than with the resistance of the plumbing, so the tank capacity will be exhausted much sooner than it would be while actually blowing out the trailer.

Originally Posted by padlin

If needed you could probably blow out one faucet, stop and let the tank fill back up, then on to the next spigot.

I agree.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Ian G

... I made this one which I find very easy to use, instructions pn how I made it here Proud Canadian

Well-built, as is everything from Ian, but with the usual horizontal city water inlet this whole rig is standing straight out the from the trailer, with an air hose hanging from it, which puts a lot of stress on the inlet and makes it harder to get the inlet garden hose connection to seal.

I suggest incorporating an elbow in place of one of the straight elements, so it hangs down instead of standing out - the most obvious would be a 1/4″ MPT elbow instead of the nipple. An alternative is to use the straight adapter with a 90-degree garden hose elbow, but that's more parts.

[Kountrykamper]

Amazon.com: Camco 36143 Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect: Automotive

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Amazon.com: Camco 36143 Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect: Automotive

But notice how small and restrictive the hole in this adaper is. This would really limit the air volume.

[steve dunham]

We blow out the water system with compressed air and then pump RV
antifreeze through the system . Never had any issues with any of the plumbing
or with taste or odor .With -50 deg RV antifeeze costing less than $2 /gal. it is a lot cheaper than fixing a cracked line / fitting. IMHO

[Kountrykamper]

Originally Posted by Ian G

But notice how small and restrictive the hole in this adaper is. This would really limit the air volume.

I must be missing something. It's the same air hose connection on the end without the shut off valve.

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

Amazon.com: Camco 36143 Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect: Automotive

It is nice to get it all in one component, even without a valve.

Originally Posted by Ian G

But notice how small and restrictive the hole in this adaper is. This would really limit the air volume.

I agree... but I wonder if it could be drilled out? I can't think of any reason for the hole to be that small - there are no internal components, and is presumably turned from one piece of brass.

Judging from one view on the Amazon page, the hole is only that small at the very tip, so it would be easy to drill. It's like an orifice plate rather than an extensive restriction, so I wonder if it is intended to limit flow and pressure for someone using it without adjusting the regulator down to an appropriate level? Perhaps that's the feature which they claim is patented, since there's nothing patentable about a 3/4”-11 NH hose thread to male quick-connect adapter.

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by Kountrykamper

I must be missing something. It's the same air hose connection on the end without the shut off valve.

The top has a small 1/8" or 3/16" holes whereas the same airline coupler has a 1/4" opening. Here are pictures to show the difference

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

I
I agree... but I wonder if it could be drilled out? I can't think of any reason for the hole to be that small - there are no internal components, and is presumably turned from one piece of brass.

I agree Brian, if the hole was drilled out this should work much better. The idea of the valve is so you can easily shut off airflow while cycling through the taps which allows the compressor to recharge the air, just saves plugging in and unplugging the air line

[Kountrykamper]

I see that in the picture now. I just went out and looked at mine and it has the same small hole. There must be some reason they make it that way because it was more work to put the small hole at the end then it would have been to contuine it full size all the way through. I have been using it for years and never noticed the small hole before or noticed any loss of pressure when blowing out the lines. Maybe it's for old men like me so I don't put too much volume of air in the lines.

[Donna D.]

Originally Posted by Brian B-P

....

I suggest incorporating an elbow in place of one of the straight elements, so it hangs down instead of standing out - the most obvious would be a 1/4″ MPT elbow instead of the nipple. An alternative is to use the straight adapter with a 90-degree garden hose elbow, but that's more parts.

Maybe start with something like this? <$6 at Camping World, etc....

[Brian B-P]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Maybe start with something like this? <$6 at Camping World, etc....

Yep, that's the 90-degree garden hose elbow which I mentioned. Thanks for the illustration.

[cpaharley2008]

Here is what I use when using air http://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Moto...+blow-out+hose
I then use my e-z winterizing hose for the antifreeze. I carry a bottle with me in the winter so I can use the toilet.