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Old 12-05-2015, 11:24 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thoer View Post
Looks like this is the model my 2010 17B has on it: Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253

Camco has one for quite a bit cheaper, but unknown quality: Camco 59005
I recently replaced my propane regulator with a Marshall regulator. I also replaced the pigtails with Marshall pigtails. I think there was water in the system and I could see water in the regulator. Marshall is a high quality product made in the US.

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Old 12-05-2015, 11:45 AM   #62
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I wonder if the propane were not purged before they were filled.
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Old 12-05-2015, 12:10 PM   #63
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There was visible moisture in the regulator that I replaced. I just assumed that the green/red monitor window was separate from the actual propane. That the moisture in the window wasn't a factor. Was I wrong?

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Old 12-05-2015, 12:42 PM   #64
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The only issue we had on our PU trip on the 19 was the auto changeover didn't work. However, it was 12 degrees that night and if moisture was in it that would be what happened. There seems to be an above avg failure rate on the stock regulator, so now that we're back in good temps if it fails again, I'll ask ETI to let me select the warranty replacement brand if possible. The Marshall one that Dave installed is similar to the ones I've always had on trailers and never had regulator issues before.
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Old 12-05-2015, 01:31 PM   #65
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Purging

Trying to fill a new tank full of moist air would not be good idea, and would introduce some moisture which could cause problems.

This statement in the linked document:
Quote:
All new propane tanks (MHs,) and cylinders (Fivers and Travel trailer from 4-40 pounds, which includes BBQ tanks etc.,) MUST BE PURGED BEFORE BEING FILLED FOR THE FIRST TIME!
... is a little extreme, or at least out of date (it was written at least ten years ago). Most of the 30-pound and smaller propane cylinders that I have seen for sale in recent years (from both Worthington and Manchester) have been vacuum purged at the factory, so no additional purging step is needed before first use. It is worth checking this if getting a new cylinder.
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Old 12-05-2015, 02:53 PM   #66
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Low temperatures are inherently problematic for auto-changeover regulators, because the switch runs on the difference in propane pressure between the two tanks which occurs when one tank runs empty, and even the full side has low pressure at low temperature so there won't be much difference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kmart View Post
There was visible moisture in the regulator that I replaced. I just assumed that the green/red monitor window was separate from the actual propane. That the moisture in the window wasn't a factor.
While the indicator compartment is presumably not filled with propane, my guess is that moisture freezing in there could interfere with switching operation. It seems likely that moisture in the indicator chamber would be the result of condensation from moist air trapped in there, rather than from contamination of the propane.

On a larger trailer I have the only auto-changeover regulator that I have owned (assuming this the orignal, and I don't recall replacing it), which is a Fairview Model GR-9984; it looks entirely unlike the one illustrated in the Fairview page, but if it is the original it is about 14 years old so I assume that it is the previous version. The current GR-9984 looks like the Escape-supplied original shown by Dave.

Mine was made in India, but I think the location of the factory is nearly irrelevant: although crap can be made in third-world countries more cheaply than it can be made here in the land of high wages, it can be made anywhere... and good products can be made anywhere that the manufacturer is willing to demand high quality, follow the processes necessary to produce it, and pay what it takes to reach it. Certainly "made in North America" has never reliably meant "well made", and almost any auto enthusiast is aware of the era in which it quite consistently meant "inferior to anything made in Japan". Every product from Apple Computer is made in China or other Asian countries, and although I'm not a fan those who are would probably react strongly and justifiably to the suggestion that all Apple products must be junk due to their origin.
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:12 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave&Kathie View Post
I recently replaced my propane regulator with a Marshall regulator. I also replaced the pigtails with Marshall pigtails. I think there was water in the system and I could see water in the regulator. Marshall is a high quality product made in the US.

Dave
Are you sure it's made in the U.S.? In previous searches I've seen that Marshall sold out to a Chinese company that markets them as Marshall Excelsior.

Other forums allude to RegO 7525B23 as being the only U.S. made one. See it on PropaneProducts.com for $110.
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:16 PM   #68
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Well- I do see it advertised on EBay with a "Made In USA". Remember that city in Japan? Now if it were made there everyone would be thumbs up
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:48 PM   #69
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Well- I do see it advertised on EBay with a "Made In USA". Remember that city in Japan? Now if it were made there everyone would be thumbs up
I hadn't heard of Usa, Japan, before, but the "Made in USA" myth isn't a big surprise.
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Old 12-05-2015, 03:58 PM   #70
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Marshall Excelsior is still headquartered in Marshall Michigan, although of course they could have products made anywhere. The MEGR-253 Excela-Flo Automatic Changeover Regulator is - according to the brochure - made in the USA... if that matters.
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Old 12-05-2015, 04:11 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Rossue View Post
Other forums allude to RegO 7525B23 as being the only U.S. made one. See it on PropaneProducts.com for $110.
Rego Automatic Changeover Regulator 7525B23
That odd-looking setup from Rego - not Marshall - (which appears to be a changeover valve with first stage screwed onto a separate second stage) is apparently discontinued... although it is still listed in Australia.
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Old 12-06-2015, 11:29 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian B-P View Post
Trying to fill a new tank full of moist air would not be good idea, and would introduce some moisture which could cause problems.

This statement in the linked document:

... is a little extreme, or at least out of date (it was written at least ten years ago). Most of the 30-pound and smaller propane cylinders that I have seen for sale in recent years (from both Worthington and Manchester) have been vacuum purged at the factory, so no additional purging step is needed before first use. It is worth checking this if getting a new cylinder.
I have taken 3 new "Prepurged" 20 lb propane cylinders into be filled . Every propane dealer I visited in my area required the tanks to be purged or they would not fill the tanks.
The propane dealers had zero faith in the reliability of prepurging.
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Old 12-06-2015, 12:45 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I have taken 3 new "Prepurged" 20 lb propane cylinders into be filled . Every propane dealer I visited in my area required the tanks to be purged or they would not fill the tanks.
The propane dealers had zero faith in the reliability of prepurging.
Plus they then get to charge you to purge - at least all the ones around here do! The new Worthington prepurged one I bought on sale at Menards was actually filled without another purge at the local UHaul.
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:00 PM   #74
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Plus they then get to charge you to purge - at least all the ones around here do! The new Worthington prepurged one I bought on sale at Menards was actually filled without another purge at the local UHaul.
That's an assumption on your part .Two of the three propane dealers purged the tanks for no
charge. I too bought my tanks from Menards.
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:05 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
That's an assumption on your part .Two of the three propane dealers purged the tanks for no
charge. I too bought my tanks from Menards.
The propane dealers must be nicer in your neck of the woods!
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Old 12-06-2015, 01:38 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by steve dunham View Post
I have taken 3 new "Prepurged" 20 lb propane cylinders into be filled . Every propane dealer I visited in my area required the tanks to be purged or they would not fill the tanks.
The propane dealers had zero faith in the reliability of prepurging.
Interesting. I have no faith in most of the places which sell propane, because they are clearly not competent:
  • almost none check the condition of the cylinder or the certification date (Costco is the only exception I've seen)
  • small cylinders are filled by weight here, and none (except possibly Costco) ever check the tare weight
  • one young guy and the female "trainee" at a major truck/RV stop chain were so busy flirting with each other that they walked away from my motorhome leaving the bleed valve wide open to endlessly discharge propane vapour
  • the propane dealer which sold me a used and recertified (by them) large cylinder did change the valves (at least they looked new), but didn't stamp a new certification date on the collar
  • the same propane dealer that sold me the cylinder without the stamp has since repeatedly filled this cylinder, never noticing that it does not have a valid date
  • one idiot even filled a 30-pound cylinder with no scale and not using the bleed valve, counting on the Overfill Prevention Device to stop the fill
I suppose I could go to a propane specialist - rather than a gas station - for the first fill, but the place that didn't stamp my cylinder is one of these. Given the places most of us buy propane and my experience with them I would rather trust the factory that make the cylinder than the kid who may have taken the propane course.

Realistically, once the cylinder is vacuum-purged at the factory, even leaving the tank valve wide open won't introduce more than 6 grams of air and less than a gram of water into the cylinder (unless you pump air or water into it, or put it underwater). The concern explained in the article is that a cylinder which has ever been purged may be pressurized with contaminated air, but the cylinder which has been vacuum-purged can't pressurize itself.

I have concluded that as the user, it is my responsibility to monitor the tank condition, track the certification date, and check that it is not overfilled.
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Old 12-06-2015, 06:35 PM   #77
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This happened to me twice! Once when it was 10 degrees F outside. I didn't read through all the posts so maybe someone already suggested the following. When this happens again go outside and shake the tank for a bit. Everything will work again through the night. That's it, it works, trust me.
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Old 12-06-2015, 10:44 PM   #78
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Can't offer any advise on the problem but I am really impressed with the knowledge that's available here! Sure, we have alot of fun but this kind of collaboration to help a member is impressive! Escape owners are awesome!

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Old 12-08-2015, 12:53 PM   #79
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FullTiming-propane not happy with cold weather

I agree with Brian - I have little faith in most places that sell propane. That's why I get it at a propane shop and not some place that just happens to sell propane along with everything else.

And the upside is that not only do they know what they're doing, they usually sell propane much cheaper than other places.

We filled our tanks at a propane shop in Gonzales on our way to the Matagorda Rally. The left took 2 gallons and the right took 1 1/2. The charge was 8 bucks.
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Old 12-08-2015, 01:16 PM   #80
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How do they fit gallons into a 20-pound cylinder?
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